hep problems

[csomni]

having problems with my omni at higher temps when pulling long hills. engine temp reaches 230 F . acts like its running out of gas. change the hep and she takes right off until it gets hot again. pull the hep and cool it down and it runs fine. used two difference heps and dose the same thing. is 230 to hot for these engines ? any help would be appreciated.

thanks
court

[turbovanman²]

230 is WAY too hot, it should be around 190-195, your in blown head gasket territory.

You have a rad/air flow or thermostat issue. What's your setup?

[cordes]

The computer does all sorts of things to keep the engine alive once it starts getting that hot. It'll actually shut itself off above a certain temp if I'm not mistaken. Of course that temp is high enough to not worry about it running anymore to begin with...

[turbovanman²]

Of course that temp is high enough to not worry about it running anymore to begin with...

Say that fast 5 times in a row,

[csomni]

230 is WAY too hot, it should be around 190-195, your in blown head gasket territory.

You have a rad/air flow or thermostat issue. What's your setup?

it is a stock 87 t2 set up, running a max of 14lbs of boost. the gauge on the dash only reads halfway and that is in between the # 1 and # 2 cly. my mechanical reads at the t- stat. its a fresh motor and the rad has been flow tested. the rad fan will kick on at 220 according to the gauge. ill have to check if the mechanical gauge is on.

[supercrackerbox]

The fan should kick on by 212 on a stock computer, and the fan should be big enough to prevent it from ever getting to 230. Been there, done that. What kind of fan are you using?

[turbovanman²]

it is a stock 87 t2 set up, running a max of 14lbs of boost. the gauge on the dash only reads halfway and that is in between the # 1 and # 2 cly. my mechanical reads at the t- stat. its a fresh motor and the rad has been flow tested. the rad fan will kick on at 220 according to the gauge. ill have to check if the mechanical gauge is on.

So your rad is junk or its blocked, missing the lower air dam. Running hot on the road is a sign the radiator isn't removing the heat. Flow testing a rad is meaningless, so it flows water but they can't tell how much it actually going thru the tubes. Remove the fan, get it warm and put your hand all over the rad, I'll bet you'll find cold spots.

[csomni]

So your rad is junk or its blocked, missing the lower air dam. Running hot on the road is a sign the radiator isn't removing the heat. Flow testing a rad is meaningless, so it flows water but they can't tell how much it actually going thru the tubes. Remove the fan, get it warm and put your hand all over the rad, I'll bet you'll find cold spots.

the fan is a stock fan from a 87 glhs. lower air dam ? ill have to check that. maybe i forgot to put it on. what gets me is the dash gauge only goes to the half way mark. and its not boiling over. ill try checking for cold spots tomorrow. thanks for the help. and ill up date you when i find something

[turbovanman²]

Factory gauges can be off, so as long as your verifying the temp at the thermobox and its right, then yeah, its overheating,

[speedfreek500]

Wrong water pump?

[csomni]

took the rad to the shop to get it rodded. its all plugged up. surprised it didn't get hotter than it did. bad news is they cant get the rod threw most of the tubes. time for a new core. looks like 375.00 bucks. ouch !!!!.

[supercrackerbox]

Yep, that's about how it went with the radiator for my GLHS. But at least it will have its original radiator, and will now likely last another 25 years.

[turbovanman²]

Nailed it,