SRT shifting issues

[spoolinhard]

I have been having issues shifting my SRT for the past few years. It is an 04 with 86k miles on it. I tore it down and sent the TOB fork to get refurbished by Darrell Cox, I got a new throw out bearing, and I drilled apart the modular clutch and bolted it back together. I have heard of people drilling apart the clutch setup but I have never heard of anyone doing it successfully. It is all back together now, here is my issue.

The car does not shift out of any gear while running. Pushing in the clutch does not take the car out of gear. The only way to get the car out of gear is to shut it off and put it into nuetral. I am thinking it is one of two things

1. My TOB is not engaging or

2. There is something wrong with the modular clutch setup that I reworked. For anyone that knows this setup, it is riveted together. I drilled all that apart and installed bolts and washers. There are no torque specs for this since you are not meant to refurb this unit.

I think that maybe the TOB could not be engaging because the clutch is torqued down too tight (55 lbs). I do not want to do this a third time, any input?

[black86glhs]

Is it possible the TB is on the trans side of the clutch fork and therefore is just sitting there when the clutch is pressed? Instead of the fork pushing the TB into the pressure plate fingers?

[DodgeZdad]

Your bearing is probably not engaging the clutch. The fork may be off from new spec or if you disconnected the hyd slave from the master cylinder you may have air in the system.
Your clutch adjustment is under the steering wheel. Pull the pedal back after loosening the 5/16 bolt and re-tighten. Depress your pedal 100 times to get the air out.
I that fails, then take the inspection cover and physically check the movement of the fork while someone depresses the clutch.
With 86 thousand miles the clutch should have been changed! If you didn't mark the clutch when put it back with bolts, it may be out of balance or the disk may binding something if it is not centered.

[spoolinhard]

Well, I like to think the care I have taken with my car can be shown in the clutch I removed. There was so little wear on it that it didn't look a whole lot different than the new one. In my opinion I didn't need to replace it but there was no way to be sure. I did not disconnect the slave cylinder from the master. I pulled the slave out of the trans and left the whole thing connected. As far as the clutch binding, while I had the front on jackstands I started the car. with it in nuetral the spindles turned (I did not have front tires on it when I did this). I put my foot on disc and I was able to bring it to a halt with utmost ease. I assumed the fact that they were turning in the first place was due to the natural pressure that is on the clutch from the pressure plate, and the fact that it had no load on it or wheels. With the car back down on the ground and running in nuetral it did not move.

And no, it is physically impossible for the throw out bearing to be on the wrong side of the for lol!

Your bearing is probably not engaging the clutch. The fork may be off from new spec or if you disconnected the hyd slave from the master cylinder you may have air in the system.
Your clutch adjustment is under the steering wheel. Pull the pedal back after loosening the 5/16 bolt and re-tighten. Depress your pedal 100 times to get the air out.
I that fails, then take the inspection cover and physically check the movement of the fork while someone depresses the clutch.
With 86 thousand miles the clutch should have been changed! If you didn't mark the clutch when put it back with bolts, it may be out of balance or the disk may binding something if it is not centered.