Well i tried airing down the front and airing up the back. cut a 2.1 but ended up snapping something in the trans or an axle. No movement in any gear and loud and fast clunking when in gear. clunk clunk clunk clunk. oh well, time to take it apart again.
Last edited by jefo; 06-23-2013 at 03:40 AM.
Yeah sounds like an axle. But you had enough traction to do that, kinda good news lol.
Blew up the diff ring gear/ sheared the case. Currently converting to a a523 with a tu yellow 4 puck clutch, lightened steel flywheel, short throw shifter, and poly bushings. What are your guesses? Faster or slower than before?
Slower if you don't have slicks. Launching with a manual with no traction is even harder than auto.
Your MPH will probably increase though.
Pics of the carnage?
carnage photos in this thread.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...-will-not-move
Ouch!
Well. Took it to the drags with the a523 and slicks. I snapped something right off the line... There is oil coming out of the slits (on the outside of the case of the cv) on the inner cv drivers side? If i push on the boot oil squirts out. How is this possible?
CV joint exploaded. What axles are you using? Like autozone or OEM?
It was an oem. But why would oil be coming out of those slits if they are filled with grease?
And in any gear there is no sound (clunking/grinding/etc). There is also no sound when rolling it.
It's old, the grease has broken down into pretty much just oil apparently. Probably why it broke, wasn't getting good lubrication anymore.
Most important (and pretty much only) thing i know about running a manual on slicks: Take up the clutch slow until you feel the car start to move, then come off the clutch fast. You want to come up slow until you feel the car react so that you take the slack out of the drivetrain before dumping full power through everything.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Good tip. I'll do that next time. Also, I started the van, put it in gear and the inner cv joints were not moving. So it is internal. I am hoping the end of an axle with the splines broke off inside.Originally Posted by Vigo
I'll have to push it into my garage and find out.
If it is broken off inside the diff what is the best way to get it out? Hit it from the other side with a screwdriver? drill/tap into it and pull it out?
Thanks
The CV joint itself it whats broken (from what you described). So the end with the splines and case will stay there in the trans and the rest will probably plop off when you pull the axle out of the spindle. So you'll still be able to grab the casing to the CV joint to pull it out of the trans. But yes worst case scenario you will have to take out the other side and tap it out with a large screwdriver.
As far as the launch, I know this is a heavy van but I've dumped the clutch many times at 6k RPM with no problems in my daytona and shadow at the track. I never had my van at the track so I don't know, but IIRC they are only a couple hundred pounds heavier than a daytona.
Since these axles don't use spring circlips it's usually easiest to tap it out from the other side. You can put a self-tapper screw into the end of it and pull on that to get it out but depending on how far below flush it is broken off, it may be a bigger pita to do that vs going from the other side. Here's hoping it really is an axle. Someone in another thread im following had this exact thing happen only a few weeks ago (broke off inside where you couldnt see it, looked normal outside).
As for axles breaking, it almost totally comes down to the driver's left leg. You have people with 15 second cars breaking the same axles that other people are running 10s on. People with stock neons with 130 lb ft of torque break their axles and other guys run 10s on stock axles there too. It's all about the shock loads. Every once in a while you'll get an axle with a flaw or a china axle with ---- metal that will just break, but generally an OEM axle will take you into the 10s if you drive it just right.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
yep snapped the passenger axle in the diff, (autozone axle). The drivers axle is bulged and leaking grease out of the 2 indents that cracked open (oem axle).
Going to grab some good axles from the junkyard.
Then I have a race against a 2003 g35 sedan automatic. Hopefully I can win.
Last edited by jefo; 09-12-2013 at 10:27 PM.
Just to throw this out there: unless you got brand new axles from *any* parts store, they are still OEM axles and stubs. They are simply sent to a rebuild center where new joints, grease, and boots are installed...just like you would do if you rebuilt them yourself.
I dunno, i always assumed there was a possibility that a brand new (at one time) china axle could get rebuilt and sold as a reman after being turned in on warranty.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
I was told way back that the quality of rebuild could vary, the wear faces inside the CV need to be remachined to a parabolic section, where the cheapasses would do it to a mere spherical section resulting in grinding at larger angles, resulting in failure of the CV earlier. That has no bearing on whether they snap off in tranny or not, and on a pure drag car you might not turn it often enough to cause the wear, but on anything that gets driven, they'd cause CV failures "early" on what looks like a solid original axle.
DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!
I plan on getting good mopar ones from the junkyard and testing them to make sure they are fine. Then take apart, clean, re grease with good synthetic grease, and put new boots on.
Last edited by jefo; 09-14-2013 at 01:17 PM.
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