It's an RFL, and yea it has 4 or 5 shims in it. I have tried 3 different knock sensors. Eventually I'll get it dyno tuned so all the kinks can be worked out.
It's an RFL, and yea it has 4 or 5 shims in it. I have tried 3 different knock sensors. Eventually I'll get it dyno tuned so all the kinks can be worked out.
You sure you don't have some wrist pin knock or something thats just setting it off? Sounds like no matter what you do you still get knock. I know I'd be frustrated.
Yea just slightly haha. It could be something like that, the engine isn't the most quiet one I have heard. I ordered a new tune for the new turbo setup with decreased knock sensitivity. It only happens at above ~10psi of boost, I will update when I get the new tune. I'm also going to look into picking up an otc 4000 to monitor knock.
My engine did the same thing with the CEL mod. No matter what I did it would set it off. I suspect that at least some of the time it was real because the head gasket and pistons showed signs of some detonation that I know were not there when I put that head on. It lasted a LONG time considering how much I beat on it before it finally popped the gasket, which was a blessing in disguise as the bearings were starting to show signs of wear.
I noticed yesterday the knock sensor light goes off at ~3k rpm at 10hg vacuum. And there is no way there is knock with that light of load. I will check for anything loose that could be rattling. I will also be changing out the poly side motor mount to rubber to reduce cabin vibrations, but it probably won't affect the knock signal.
Originally Posted by jefo
Ive noticed this on mine too very light load itll come on.Doesnt at track though.
Thats usually rod or wrist pin knock at that RPM and amount of throttle. 95% sure its one of those causing your knock sensor to go off.
You are most likely right on the wrist pin noise. It has made this noise since I bought it 3 years ago, and I have checked and replaced the bearings and they weren't a problem.
Here is a vid of it
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y17qRFUcMa8
What lifters do you have? Stock cam yet? The top end seems to be making more noise than usual, like bad lifters but I can't recall if you said you are using PT's or not. If you are, I think you might have them shimmed wrong. If not, I would replace those lifters they sound awful noisy.
Yea I put in new Mopar PT lifters in about 6 months ago, with the correct 2 shims each.
Were the shims grade 8? I've seen inferior shims flatten and cause excess gap. Though, I guess you've pretty much had this sound/problem the entire time right? Nothing has really changed?
Sounds like you might have to rebuild the engine to really get rid of the problem, kinda sucks but not much else you can do with wrist pin knock. You could do it in frame though. Pull the head, drop the pan, pop all the pistons out. Have the rods rebuilt, new rings, run a bottle hone through the cylinders, and slap it all back together. It would work, and would be a lot faster and easier than pulling everything.
haha yea I already did an in car engine refresh, with everything you described. I didn't notice play between the rods and pistons though.
The PT lifters made the engine much quieter and they were the exact shims everyone recommended, the video makes the sound seem louder than it is in person.
I'll have to see how the new tune with reduced knock sensitivity works.
Last edited by jefo; 11-11-2015 at 04:21 AM.
You had the rods rebuilt with new bushings installed?
Depending on the shims used, they can squish down over time and cause excess play. You have to use grade 8 washers so they don't compress.
No i did not as I didn't know it was an issue. The shims aren't a problem, I had them out a few weeks ago.
I went to the drags with the knock sensor unplugged and the timing advanced a little and ran a 13.9 at 98mph. So timing is definitely an issue. I'll be putting comp cams conical springs and getting a new tune for the turbo in the new couple of weeks.
moparzrule you are a wizard. Some of the lifters are recessed into their bores! But the washers look fine. Can the support that holds the lifter and washers up be moved/somehow forced downward? I'll have to check and measure tomorrow.
Yeah I can fix everyone's car but my own, kinda ironic.
Not sure though on why it's only some of them, let us know the measurements. Also measure the washers in those bores compared to ones that in the bores that didn't squish down just to see. Honestly, sometimes quality control isn't real great on those washers anyway and they can be different sizes out of the package.
I put the comp cams 995 springs/retainers in, and after a drive, the injectors are the only things making noise at idle. Success! So the lifters and shims are fine.
On a side note I went to the track before I put the springs in and ran a 14.0 at 98mph. Unfortunately the track is closed now so I won't know where it'll be with the springs and cal.
those springs are sooooooo nice.
I wonder how many of our cars are actually running worse than they should due to worn out or too weak valve springs?
Every single one of them if my experience with the 995 comps are anything to go by. I've NEVER heard a 2.2/2.5 8v sing like mine did above 3500rpms.
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