Door sagging Daytona repair

[Lee'sdaytona]

Greetings!
I took my 86 Turbo Z to have the hole in the floor patched up, and the guy pointed out how worn out my hinges are. The actual door sheet metal by the latch is cracked So, I need to remove the door, and send the hinges to him to have them rebuilt, then re-install, and bring the car to him to align the door. I don't have a garage, so I'm banking on using a buddy's garage. Any tips on how to speed up the process? Any advice on how to do this successfully? This is a T-top car, if it matters.
Thanks,
Lee

[RoadWarrior222]

I'd imagine removing the door will be smoother if you can rope it up to a rafter to take the weight off the hinge.

[Big_P]

They can be welded on-car. Done it on two different vehicles. I put a jack underneath the door so the cracks line up and lay a bead on there.

[135sohc]

Have the car sitting on all 4 wheels so any t-top induced body flex wont mess up alighment. The dorman pin/bushing kits are ok.

Having the door supported via overhead means so your not having to wrestle it around is a huge plus. I use a wide nylon tow strap wrapped around the door a few times to grab it.

[Lee'sdaytona]

Does anyone have experience with our cars and worn hinges? This gentleman says the holes wallow out. Would this be the case on our cars, or do they typically wear out the pins? I will have some extra help to hold the door. I guess my main concern is the wiring for the mirror and window. Is this difficult to disconnect from the body of the car? Do I need to remove the fender to get the door off the car?
Thanks for the replies!
-Lee

[135sohc]

Our cars (except L body) have bronze oil bushings in the hinge half bolted to the body. Its is usually a combination of both the bushing wearing thin and the hinge pin getting worn down in the spot where its riding in the bushing and both add up to alot of slop. He is correct in that in the prior generations of chrysler cars (rwd) they did not bush the lower hinges so the steel pin was rotating directly on the steel hinge and over time especially on the drivers door it would get reamed out.

Probably be easiest to remove the door panel and unplug everything, feed it out of the door. Fender can stay on the car, I have a dedicate long 3/8" extension bar that I use to drive out the pins. The open end fits perfectly over the end of the pin so you can get a good solid swing with the hammer and it wont slip off. Covering the area around the hinges with 2 layers of heavy masking tape can help prevent scratches.

[Lee'sdaytona]

Oh so you are saying you simply drive out the pins and you don't have to unbolt the hinges?! Thats great! In that case, would I need to pay this guy to rebuild my hinges, or can I buy (where?) new bushings and pins and just swap them in, and maybe have him align the door for me?
Thanks for the great tips!
PS:
My 3/8" Extension is about 12-13" long. Is your extension longer? Maybe I could instead weld an old socket to some 1/2" round steel stock at school and make that the tool?
Thanks!
-Lee

[135sohc]

I use a 12" extension. A socket welded to some bar stock would work good.
Dorman 38388 http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...parttype,10711 2 kits per door.

Drive the pin out and it will come apart. No need to unbolt anything, it will just makes things alot harder to line back up.

[RoadWarrior222]

Covering the area around the hinges with 2 layers of heavy masking tape can help prevent scratches.

Heavy duty duct tape over masking tape works good. Have to hit it really hard to break through.