Tony's 1986 Turbo II GLH-T

[anokabball24]

Figured I'd create a thread for this rather than post a bunch of other threads.

The car: 1986 Dodge Omni GLHT (black)
Engine: T2 from an '88 Daytona w/2.5" turboback exhaust
Trans: A555
Goals: a fun, reliable summer daily driver that could see upwards of 250 whp
Budget: $3000 or less
Finish Date: May or June 2013

I'm going through the bottom end because I had a serious oil-loss and I'd like to freshen things up down there. I'm also going to replace allgaskets, seals, mounts, etc.

I will be making use of the stock head & intake (no port work or rebuilding for now), current 2.5" exhaust, stock TO3 turbo, and will re-work the suspension and tires as needed.

The build list: (If I'm forgetting anything let me know)

• Motor Mounts
• +20's
• FMIC Intercooler
• Accufab AFPR
• TU 6 Puck Clutch
• Garret Return Gasket
• Intake/Exhaust Gasket
• Moly Bearing Plate
• Turbo Oil/Coolant Lines
• Intake Manifold Bolts
• Exhaust Manifold Studs
• Swingvalve Clip
• MP Headgasket
• 1987 Stage 5 Cal
• 1990 ATX Omni Axles
• Clevite Main Bearings
• Clevite Rod Bearings
• Intermediate Shaft Bearings
• ARP Rod Bolts
• ARP Main Studs
• Timing Belt
• Mopar or Melling Oil Pump/Pickup
• Felpro Gasket Kit
• Hastings Piston Rings
• 2.5" Swingvalve
• 3 Bar MAP Sensor
• Walbro 255
• Sparkplugs
• Magnecor Wires
• SS turbo lines
• ARP Head Studs
• 1G DSM BOV
• Vaccum Block
• Fuel Filter
• Fuel Lines
• Vacuum Lines
• Air Filter
• Thermostat
• Large-can Wastegate Accuator
• Valve Cover Bolts
• Fuel Pressure Gauge
• Hoses & Clamps
• 93 octane, and lots of it

If you have any tips on where I can save some money on these parts I'd love to know. Going to use our vendors as much as possible but I like a deal as well.

Thanks for looking and here is the lucky beneficiary...

[RJ138]

Quit with the jibber jabber and buy some frackin' parts already. Quit filling up carts and then backing out, pull the trigger already and lets get going.

[anokabball24]

Quit with the jibber jabber and buy some frackin' parts already. Quit filling up carts and then backing out, pull the trigger already and lets get going.

instaBan

[135sohc]

The replacement mopar oil pumps are now just reboxed melling units. If you wish to replace the pump then order the melling M118 from the parts store and save the extra $60 for something else. The stocker oil pump in these engines is really not bad and if its not scored, out of spec or the drive gear isnt damaged it can be cleaned and reused.
I had made and sell the snap ring inside the transmission that secures the 5th gear synchronizer and input shaft if you wish to replace it when installing the chromoly end plate.

[86seeS]

If your going 3 bar then youll need +40 if you plan on big boost also i think the stock garrett is only efficient till 16-18lbs

[anokabball24]

The replacement mopar oil pumps are now just reboxed melling units. If you wish to replace the pump then order the melling M118 from the parts store and save the extra $60 for something else. The stocker oil pump in these engines is really not bad and if its not scored, out of spec or the drive gear isnt damaged it can be cleaned and reused.
I had made and sell the snap ring inside the transmission that secures the 5th gear synchronizer and input shaft if you wish to replace it when installing the chromoly end plate.

Good to know. Thank you.

If your going 3 bar then youll need +40 if you plan on big boost also i think the stock garrett is only efficient till 16-18lbs

I plan on running low boost during break in and then adding it gradually. I will be able to get by on +20's for a while, and then decide if I want to run 18+ and will then go +40's. I plan on taking this slow.

[ajakeski]

Build a good, solid bottom end with forged pistons and TII rods. This way you can build more power later without having to worry.
A stock swirl head with a blow through intake and ported exhaust will make good low end power on the street. Use a 2.5 inch swing valve on a stock Garrett turbo along with the 2.5 inch exhaust you mentioned.
Go with a higher flow fuel pump and stock TII injectors (33lbs) will do fine for this setup, buy a Stage III logic Module from FWD and let it handle boost and fuel mapping.
You'll run 15 pounds of boost, it'll come on much sooner and the turbo will spool quicker.

That's the way my GLH is set up other than the intake and injectors. My car is running a log intake and a Spearco "Over the transmission" intercooler.
I'm also using rebuilt stock TI injectors (27lbs), My air Fuel gauge never goes lean.

Look at FWD's T2/T3 clutch kit and save yourself some cash.

[Keito]

I ran +20's on a GLHS 3 bar cal, had plenty of fuel on a T2 turbo @18psi
Had a healthy Walbro 255 and clean filter though.

[fishcleaner]

I have an Accufab FPR and TU fuel rail if you are intrested, PM a price you want to pay. Good luck on the project.

[anokabball24]

Build a good, solid bottom end with forged pistons and TII rods. This way you can build more power later without having to worry.
A stock swirl head with a blow through intake and ported exhaust will make good low end power on the street. Use a 2.5 inch swing valve on a stock Garrett turbo along with the 2.5 inch exhaust you mentioned.
Go with a higher flow fuel pump and stock TII injectors (33lbs) will do fine for this setup, buy a Stage III logic Module from FWD and let it handle boost and fuel mapping.
You'll run 15 pounds of boost, it'll come on much sooner and the turbo will spool quicker.

That's the way my GLH is set up other than the intake and injectors. My car is running a log intake and a Spearco "Over the transmission" intercooler.
I'm also using rebuilt stock TI injectors (27lbs), My air Fuel gauge never goes lean.

Look at FWD's T2/T3 clutch kit and save yourself some cash.

Forged slugs will throw me over budget for sure...Going forged will be a last minute decision, that I guarantee. Car is a true TII so I have the heavier rods.

No plans to run a ported exhaust manifold, simply due to me thinking that I should probably port-match the intake and head if I'm going to do the exhaust...correct me if I'm wrong. I will be running a 2.5" swingvalve with 2.5" exhaust (no muffler, only cat)

Will be running the Walbro255, with either +20's (to start) and then +40's if I go Stage 5.

I really think the clutch is important and the 6-puckers from TU appeal to me simply because they can handle more power and if I ever want to go higher, I can.

Appreciate the feedback dude.

[anokabball24]

Did a bunch of work today. Got the head pulled and the pistons out and made some interesting discoveries.

Discovered something not so good happened to the #2 slug...Miraculously there is ZERO damage to that cylinder, I have no idea how there is no scoring on the cylinder wall. As you can see there's a good 1.25" chunk of ringland missing on top of other metal.


Cylinder wall #2—Low on cross hatch but no visible damage from the broken #2 piston. Amazing.


Cylinders 1 & 2—How do they look?


Cylinders 3 & 4—How do they look?


As a result, I'm going to have to replace two pistons, #1 has a completely busted ring-land (not pictured), however, all the metal stayed intact. We'll see, might end up going forged. Would love a recommendation on which, Wiseco, Venolia, or JE.

Will update with more photos.

[cordes]

That's not too bad. I had a piston literally fall into two pieces when I popped it out of my 600. It was about 60% of it in one piece and 40% in another. Darn near in half.

[anokabball24]

I guess I was surprised that there's no trace of that metal scoring the cylinder wall and I couldn't find any of the metal in the oil pan...where did it go?

Now, either a new set of cast Mahle's from Forward Motion ($128) or a set of Wisecos ($550). Decisions, decisions. I'm having machine work done to the block/head this week, depending on the cost of that, I may just splurge on a set of Wisecos.

[Keito]

I spent $1000 on Wiseco's and getting the block machined/ rods reconditioned.
Can't see it getting much cheaper than that for a forged build.

[anokabball24]

Guys,

I'm wondering if anyone knows of a bottom end gasket kit for a rebuild. Ideally I'd like everything found here

Thanks

[anokabball24]

Well, low and behold, the head is done, just super tired. It needs a valve job, guides, valves, and springs. I have a spare head lying around that came stock on the Omni, going to see if that's serviceable as I don't think it makes sense $–wise to rebuild this one just yet.

Getting the block sonic-checked, if everything turns out well she'll be over-bored to .040 and will be receiving Wiseco's, ARP hardware all around, a polished crank, reconditioned rods, and Clevite goodies.

The budget is creeping but it should all be worth the peace of mind in the end.

[anokabball24]

Change of plans. Bailing on my block and putting this project on temporary hold until I can get my hands on a good common block.

[tryingbe]

1989
Engine
Chrysler Lebaron 898139 $250 Chesney Auto Salvage USA-MN(Duluth) Request_Quote 1-800-826-2941 Request_Insurance_Quote

[anokabball24]

^ Haha, thanks man. By the way, where is this coming from.

[RJ138]

Probably www.car-part.com.

Chesney's is a haul.