Clutch Cable too short on a568 swap into 85 Shelby Charger

[caddywhompus]

Hey guys,
I am on the home stretch of this build, which has taken me over 5 years to amass parts and assemble. I've got an 85 Shelby Charger, which now holds a TII 2.5 from a Turbo Van. The motor is build stout, so I procured an a568 transmission to put the power down. All this stuff is now assembled and in the car, and she's already running good.

But I have one last problem that has me scratching my head. The clutch cable (original to the Shelby) appears to too short. When the pedal is put to the floor, the clutch lever is being pulled up way too far, past the point of disengaging the clutch. In fact, I can drive the car as long as I only use 1/2 the clutch travel, because if I put the clutch all the way to the floor you can't change gears. But right in the middle of it's travel, everything seems to work perfect.

The clutch is either a stock Mopar TII clutch, or a Centerforce. My brother bought that part and installed it when he put the transmission in for me, and he has since passed away so without pulling the tranny I'm not sure what clutch is in there. I can say that it's gripping tight and engaging smooth, as long as I don't use the entire pedal travel.

I've searched the forums and I see no reference to different length clutch cables. I had thought they were all the same, but now I am wondering. The adjustment on the clutch pedal appears to already be at it's maximum. I've called around to some parts places, and they all say the cables are all the same length.

I'm ready for any info you guys would like to share. Most of this process was fueled by things I learned here or from Donovan's Dodge Garage, so teach me one last thing!

[135sohc]

Two things: There are two different clutch cable lengths (maybe more if your counting the oddball stuff) as their are also two different 'clock' positions of the clutch arm on the transmission in just the 8v cars, 16V transmissions are different still. Early 91 was the change over for the cable/clutch arm position.

What is the build date of the transmission and the assembly # ? those are both stamped on the round tag screwed to the bellhousing.

[tryingbe]

Y137 43.75 inch
Y236 42.00 inch
Y1112 46.00 inch


Takes yours out and measure it.

[4 l-bodies]

Another thing to consider is the Centerforce disk/PP/TOB assembly. I've had several dual friction clutches from Centerforce (years ago) and still have one in my 85 GLHT. I remember that I had to put a stop on two of my clutch pedals in GLHT's for this very reason. I also disabled the self adjusting mechanism to lower the clutch pedal further. I like mine to start to release about a inch off the floor. Before the mod. it would over-center itself and make noise if the pedal was pushed in too far. I think the disk was a bit thicker and the TOB needed to be a little shorter for it to work properly. I remember hearing many complaints on v8 applications where pedals were sticking to the floor esp. on WOT shifts. Not a good thing! I think the fix for the v8 guys was a shorter TOB. I don't think that is an option for us though, unless there is a difference in thickness between the early and late style TOB.
Todd

[caddywhompus]

Thanks for the tips so far, I will look into these ASAP and report back.

[BadAssPerformance]

I seem to remember people changing/modding the cable to strut tower bracket as well.

[sdac guy]

Another thing to consider is the Centerforce disk/PP/TOB assembly. I've had several dual friction clutches from Centerforce (years ago) and still have one in my 85 GLHT. I remember that I had to put a stop on two of my clutch pedals in GLHT's for this very reason.

Yup, I still have a stop on my 525 in my Omni. It's a Centerforce clutch sold through Mopar Performance back in the day. I have it so the pedal goes about 3/4 way to the floor before it hits the stop.

I've gotten used to it, but I have had to warn others that drove my car. When I took it in to the paint shop back in 1994, the guy ignored the post-it note on the steering wheel, pressed the pedal to the floor, and pulled the cable out of the adjuster block on the pedal. Then complained to me that the clutch seemed to be broken. When I pointed out the note on the steering wheel cautioning not to push the pedal to the floor, the guy gave me a deer-in-the-headlights look. Certainly a 'Duh' moment for him.

Barry

[Vader85]

I thought the cable out of a Shadow were the perfect length....I took the Shadow's 523/568 cable and mount, that what I remember....I've had my car fpr well over 15 cars in my garage collecting parts to convert to a TurboII and Evertime I try working on it something else needs my attention....don't give up these cars are uniquie and fast! Sorry you're talking clutch cable not shifter cables.....I would try a Daytona or Shadow style shiter cable also take a look at the Neon you maybe able to use it...

[Force Fed Mopar]

When I put the V6 swap in my '86 Daytona, I had to put a 520 clutch fork arm on it to get the pedal height right.

[moparman76_69]

When I put the V6 swap in my '86 Daytona, I had to put a 520 clutch fork arm on it to get the pedal height right.

This. When I put the 523 in the van I had to use the 520 clutch arm to get it to work.