can not get my timing past 10° AND NEED TO GET IT TO 12° why?

[moparturboguy]

I have a 1990 lebaron 2.5 turbo and can not get my timing past 10°. I have the cam, crank and intermedeate shaft right I THINK.

[minigts]

Are you saying you can't adjust the distributor past 10*? If so, you should make sure the distributor is parallel to the block when you drop it in, along with aligning the other sprockets. There is a write up on it here on this site and I think the Dodge garage.

[BadAssPerformance]

Welcome to the forum! Elmwood as in Elmwood Park?

Guessing you're talking ignition timing? Did you unplug the coolant temp sensor when checking it?

[turbovanman²]

Where does the distributor sit right now? Are you unplugging the coolant sensor?

Use the timing light and shine it thru the hole in the cam cover, if your at 10 deg, the oval slot will be slightly off center, if you can't see the oval slot, your cam timing is also out.

[cordes]

Welcome to the site! Everyone else has this one covered.

[moparturboguy]

The video helped I'll pull the dist tomorrow and see if that is my problem. Also when I punch it coming out of the hole this car really dogs out. It doesn't boost it vaccums in stead. Could this be a vaccum leak?

[cordes]

The video helped I'll pull the dist tomorrow and see if that is my problem. Also when I punch it coming out of the hole this car really dogs out. It doesn't boost it vaccums in stead. Could this be a vaccum leak?

What vac are you pulling at idle? what video are you talking about?

[moparturboguy]

the video on timing my 2.5 turbo

[cordes]

the video on timing my 2.5 turbo

The cam or ignition timing? I did a video on cam timing, but I haven't done one on ign timing yet.

Either way if you're not pulling 18" or so of vac at idle you've probably got a cam timing issue on your hands.

[turbovanman²]

The video helped I'll pull the dist tomorrow and see if that is my problem. Also when I punch it coming out of the hole this car really dogs out. It doesn't boost it vaccums in stead. Could this be a vaccum leak?

Could be a plugged cat if you still have one, otherwise cam/ig timing will cause that.

[RoadWarrior222]

Kick the cat, if it sounds like a can of rocks, it's done.

edit: Not that it might not be fried or blocked if it doesn't rattle, just that it's definitely positively done if it's that bad.

[moparturboguy]

The cat is long gone, its a straight pipe, and when any throttle is applied it vaccumes instead of boosting.

[cordes]

If your cam timing is good then you should get boost so long as the WG puck is able to close. Have you verified that this is the case?

[moparturboguy]

Got the timing set right this morning so its running a little bit better. But it still vaccumes under throttle at first until you really lay into it. Also I can only drive about 5 miles before losing oil pressure and it heats up on me.

[cordes]

As in you totally lose oil pressure, or it drops significantly? Oil pressure will drop dramatically as the car warms up. In my Omni it would drop from around 50PSI or so dead cold to 12PSI at idle when full hot from what I can recall.

In regard to the vacuum situation, it must cut out badly when it drops into vac at WOT?

[turbovanman²]

If you can't get boost, then either the vacuum lines are hooked up incorrectly, the wastegate is frozen open or the turbo is seized.

[moparturboguy]

The oil pressure drops as warms up, but right around 5 miles it will dip below the last line on the gauge and trip the "check gauges" light.

For the vaccume, it just lags until about half throttle or more then it actually starts to boost. Its not a cutting out feel, its a pretty fluid transition. And I know it isn't an issue with the wastegate or turbo because it's a brand new Enforcer II turbo from forwardmotioninc with maybe 50 miles on it.

[turbovanman²]

Put a real oil pressure gauge on to test.

What size turbo? What's your setup? How are you controlling boost? What gauges do you have?

[BadAssPerformance]

[QUOTE=moparturboguy;925588]The oil pressure drops as warms up, but right around 5 miles it will dip below the last line on the gauge and trip the "check gauges" light.

Put a real oil pressure gauge on to test.

+1 to a "real" oil pressure gauge, BUT the light is on a different switch (gauge is a sender) and comes on at like 4psi, so I wouldn't drive it much until the oil pressure is figured out!

What are the details on the engine? how many miles, etc? What oil type and wt used, etc? What's the coolant temp when the oil pressure drops and the oil light goes on?

[turbovanman²]

+1 to a "real" oil pressure gauge, BUT the light is on a different switch (gauge is a sender) and comes on at like 4psi, so I wouldn't drive it much until the oil pressure is figured out!

Same sender, except when the oil pressure gauge drops to a certain point, it turns on the light,