Its alive!
Its alive!
Awesome! I've been watching this thread really hoping you would figure it outOriginally Posted by Shadowjake
So what was the fix???
New SBEC.. Runs like crap on this cal though. I need that ZIF socket to come in from boost button. Any time hopefully.Awesome! I've been watching this thread really hoping you would figure it out
So what was the fix???
Thank you everyone for your help with this problem. Hopefully we all learned something about these computers from cars with factory security systems. I know I did ;-)
Barry is the man. Rob too. And everyone else pulling their hair out with me, THANK YOU.
Glad to know that's what it was. I'll definitely look into flashing those security bits from a laptop. Seems like a common enough problem that we should have a fix for it...
Sorry about not getting your stuff out to you sooner. I have the cable and ZIF ready, I have been looking thru the code again to make sure there wasn't something in there causing this. I didn't want to send another bad chip (if that was it). So, I'll get it out hopefully later this morning...
Awesome. Thanks Rob.
I got impatient and decided to put in a cheapo radio shack socket in for now. I can replace it with the ZIF later. Here's a video after driving her for a while.
Wow, you've come a long way. Great work.
Very nice, glad to see it fixed!
Awesome, so glad it runs,
Now no more idling, go beat on it to seat those rings.
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS!12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
Got about 30 miles on it so far. Can't floor it though. I need to learn how to tune. I am having some other issues too that I posted in my build thread but they are:
Issues:
1. I probably should have used loctite on the crank pulley ;-)
2. I have a very slight oil leak coming from the passenger side of the engine. In the pic below, you can see the drip below the crank pulley. front main seal maybe? I'll have to inspect further tomorrow but it just started today after about 30 miles.
3. Speedo stopped working today. I hope it just came disconnected from the back of the cluster. But I am getting a code for the speed/distance sensor. Maybe that is related too.
4. Under load, I get a lot of ticking from the engine like lifter clatter or something. It goes away when cruising at a constant RPM, but if I give it a little gas there is a rythmic tick, tick, tick, tick. I wonder if my cam timing is off maybe? ignition timing is set right at 12*; double checked that last night. When I lined up the cam for the engine timing, I aimed for getting the sprocket hole as close to 90* as I could looking at the bottom of the cam caps. I might have it a little too far advanced though when looking at the hole in the timing belt cover. You know that little grommet that is in the side. If that is there to be able to see the cam sprocket mark for timing, the way I have it set would be a little further forward I think.
5. I can't get on it without the CEL flashing because of detonation. I only did it once or twice, but I need to figure out how to adjust my cal to lower the boost for now. I think the timing/ticking issue, combined with my crappy stock intercooler and 91 octane fuel is causing me to detonate at about 15psi or so under part throttle. A/F seems good I think. The wideband was showing 12-13 I believe. Might be lean I guess. I need to do some more learning before I blow up my engine.
6. Is the coil supposed to be burning hot to the touch after driving a while? I am using a Mallory coil that came with the car and it works great. but the sucker get sooo hot! Not sure if it's normal or if it is having issues with the MSD wires I got or what. Least of my worries at this point.
Lots of bugs to work out before I'll trust it to get me to SDAC but I haven't ruled that out. Where there's a will, there's a way.
Bringing this one back up - I think I learned something about the theft system on the SBEC's tonight.
The theft codes may or may not be stored in the SBEC. There are 7 bytes in EEPROM that are sent to the body computer and I have no idea what they are for. They're not used at all in the ECU code. So, they may be some sort of storage location for the theft codes. They're never written to in the ECU code. So, they must be factory programmed. If those are the codes, I'm not sure simply erasing them is the right thing to do. It may be the VIN, or it may simply be some sort of sync code with the BC. I'm going to read your SBEC and see what exactly is stored in those locations. I think I have a couple of V6 SBEC that might have something there, too. At least something to compare to.
On the much brighter side - I did find where the code coming from the body computer kills the engine. And, that will be easy enough to remove with a custom cal.
Sweet, so now all you need to do is tell us where to wire in a bluetooth dongle and program a cal so we can set an immibiliser or remote start with a phone, right?
DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!
In all of the binaries I have read, the 7 bytes I mentioned above are always 0xFF. Looks like they're not used at all (at least not in the turbo cars - maybe it's an A604 thing).
But, there is 1 byte of EEPROM that is used with the section of code that causes the shutdown. In your computer, that was set to a value (I forget what it was). But, in most binaries, that location is set to 0xFF. I think that maybe the one.
I'm going to try and make a 'special' chip to erase that location of the EEPROM. Then I can send it back to you to try out...
Awesome Rob. Thanks for the hard work you do for us. If you want me to pay shipping, that is not a problem.
Jake - I got the EEPROM erased in your computer. I'd like to send it back to you so you can try and see if it will now run a car. Morris is working on adding this function to MP Tune so that it will be easy to do with an SCI-USB cable. But first, I want to confirm that erasing the EEPROM actually 'fixes' the ECU.
So, shoot me your address.
If you are having a computer related (security) issue, Would swapping out a non alarm body controlloer work?
Ken Adler....
Cars, A few (9)
Not trying to hi-jack this thread, but I am having the exact same problem with my 87 glhs(converted to 87 lm). please see and comment on my thread here
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...and-dies-con-t
No problem. This thread has served most of its purpose already thanks to Rob and Larry.
If anyone can help him, please do.
The '87 LM won't have this issue (factory alarm dis-able) because the '87 cars didn't have a facotry alarm. Sorry, I can't help any more than that, and I read your other thread...
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