Rough idling & Bogging when giving gas!! HELP!!!!

[dodge101]

Alrighty so my 1985 Dodge Daytona Turbo Z Has been idling rough. Just replaced the plugs, wires, and cap today. Idling better but still get the occasional "dip down." Will get choppy. (idling good then bogs down and acts like it will die, then revives and does the same thing.) Thinking something with vac leak. Also, needs lifters replaced. they are "clinking" a little.

Other thing!! When i get on the gas the car will bog down like it will die then take off. Once again, im thinking vac. issues. Would getting a new vac line work or? Just stumped at this point. Need some help!

[Stevien1]

If you have a vacuum leak, then get that squared away before going further. On your '85 the MAP sensor has the longest vacuum line (it runs inside the cabin on the passenger side). Check/replace this one first, second is the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator. I believe there is a plastic 4-way union near the FPR that likes to crack. I would replace all the vacuum lines and add a simple aluminum vacuum block and get rid of the 27 year old plastic harness....

[shadow88]

Once those items are tripple checked ^^^^
I would tripple check the cam timing and ignition timing and set to 12 btdc as per service manual. Are there any codes?

[Orangetona]

Everything mentioned is a good start. Checking codes is almost a first to do in most situations. Check that out. Also, to add on other potential problems would be, tps sensor, weakening fuel pump, fuel filter, or a wonky HEP. Also, why didnt you replace the rotor? Just curious.

Mike

[dodge101]

Check the map sensor vacuum lines. im not really knowledgeable with these cars but that line did look ok? Should i be safe than sorry and replace it?

[Orangetona]

That line can 'look' ok but actually be pinched somewhere too. It travels a long way and through some tight terrain lol.

Check codes by keying the car on/off/on/off/on and count the engine light blinks. a code 12 would blink once/pause/2 consecutive blinks/

Heres everything you need to know about that:
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/fault/index.html

To check for underhood vacuum leaks, pick up a can of starting fluid. With the engine running spray the fluid over the vacuum lines and if the idle gets faster, you have a leak somewhere. If you have a leak, id just go ahead and replace all the lines. Or make it simpler and buy a vacuum block and consolidate them.

You can check the TPS by taking it off and test it with a ohm meter by sweeping it and making sure the ohms get constantly higher.

A crude way to test the hall effect pickup/ignition pickup (HEP) is while its running, just wiggle the wiring that comes out from underneath the distributor cap. Its two sets of 3 wires. They commonly break inside and lose continuity.

[dodge101]

okay boys! some good info here! Went to looking at the fpr and the vacuum lines that run around there. turns out that a vacuum line has been burn through. mashed it together and seemed to idol better. and yes there is a whole in another vacuum line. Probs needs a new fpr also. looks pretty worn. Also, checked for codes. threw these as they are 21,35,45, and 51. what now?

[Orangetona]

okay boys! some good info here! Went to looking at the fpr and the vacuum lines that run around there. turns out that a vacuum line has been burn through. mashed it together and seemed to idol better. and yes there is a whole in another vacuum line. Probs needs a new fpr also. looks pretty worn. Also, checked for codes. threw these as they are 21,35,45, and 51. what now?

Ok 21 and 51 are something I almost mentioned but I wasnt completely sure if it was related because your original post was vague lol. Your O2 sensor is bad or the wiring to it has broken. When those codes are stored it makes your engine run rich and it will NOT come out of closed loop. So it will always be dumping more fuel in and make it run like poop. So definitely get that addressed.

35 is your radiator fan relay. Does your fan actually work when its up to temperature?

45 is another problem only indicative of overboosting. This happens when you mash the gas and the turbo builds boost up to 14.7 psi and the computer cuts the engine to prevent the engine from blowing up. Do you get that feeling of hitting a brick wall when you mash the gas? Thats usually a broken vacuum line from the wastegate port on the turbo or the wastegate solenoid on the passenger fender. Dont get in it hard if its doing that until you fix it. Even though the computer shuts it down at 14.7 thats still pushing it on a non intercooled suck through setup.

Mike

[dodge101]

know where i can get the 02 sensor at? also yes when i mash the gas it feels like it wants to lag or "brick walling" and will kinda jerk then take off. also, how would i go about rewiring the vacuum lines? and now i think about it, i dont think the fan works.

[Orangetona]

Well...basically if you got a vacuum block you could get something simple like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GSP-6-way-Va...#ht_3238wt_816

Thing is, idk the suck through intake very well anymore. Its been a long time since ive had one. But basically just tie the lines in together to that. Making your you have your large port on your intake manifold as the main vacuum source for the vacuum block. Then you should be golden. You could bypass the wastegate solenoid by just running the vacuum that comes out of the wastegate actuator to that vacuum block and that would eliminate your overboost problem. Although, youll only get about 5psi that way. Or just get a manual boost controller and set it to stock 8-10 psi.

Oh, and you could grab the O2 sensor at Napa. I dont remember what the 85 TI cars are but id imagine they are a 1 wire? Get the NTK unit they list.

[dodge101]

i get generally what your saying. i'll just need some help simply because i've never changed vacuum lines. As to the sensor i'll check napa later today. Also, what type of vacuum lines are you running and where did you get them at?

[Orangetona]

I just bought a spool of vacuum lines at napa as well. (I forgot the sizes though) Most all aftermarket stuff I get is from napa just because I work there and get a discount

[dodge101]

ah i see. i need to know what size vacuum lines to get before i go any farther. and does that vac block you linked me to fit my 85 turbo z?

[Orangetona]

Its a universal fit.

Basically you take all of the old junk vacuum lines off. Take that block and put it wherever you think you like the look of it and run your vacuum to it. This is mine what mine used to look like. You can see the block next to the intake manifold on the left side:

[dodge101]

Alright thanks. also, the bottom end of my engine is leaking alot of oil..thinking i need the bottom end rebuilt? Know about how much this will cost?

[Orangetona]

Well basically it can either be Aux shaft seal, crank seal, rear main, oil pan gasket or turbo oil return hose. Which is all pretty simple minus the crank/rear main seal. You could do the aux shaft/oil pan/turbo oil return yourself pretty easy. Other than those, there isnt a whole lot left to leak other than some loose bolts going into the block maybe. If it runs good I wouldnt bother with rebuilding it.

Left to a garage, it might not cost a whole lot to stop your oil leak. Idk many turbo mopars that dont leak something lol. Especially power steering fluid.

[dodge101]

true, but i needs lifters so while im in there might as well beef it up a bit. get some more hp >

[Orangetona]

Oh yeah I forgot you mentioned that. I honestly have no clue what they would charge you to do a rebuild. Maybe someone else knows better. I usually just try to do everything myself. I doubt it would be any shorter than 1500 to do it. Maybe more?

[dodge101]

ah ok. well today im getting help on the vacuum lines. we'll see what that does for the car. Next thing to do after that is to fix the oil leak. Getting worse everyday. Seems like it's coming from the bottom end?

[Orangetona]

Oh probably. It might just be something easy like an oil pan gasket though