Modifying a Daytona k member for an l body

[83rampage]

Does anyone know where the knowledge center article on how to narrow a dual pivot k member to fit an l body is? I found a link to it in an old thread in the group buy section, but it comes up going no where.

I also checked both the old and new knowledge centers, and it is not there. I believe it was written by rbryant.

[cordes]

he is the one you need to contact if you really want one. Otherwise, just do the measuring and put one together. It's really not that bad of an operation if you can weld well. You'll need to change one of the mounting points too.

[83rampage]

Ya basically cut 1inch out of the middle.

What I was more interested in was how he modified the one mounting point. Seems to me he had a simple way to do it. Can remember if you change the location, or elevation or both.

I know I have the fab skills to do it, it's just nice to read up beforehand so you dont make work for yourself.

[cordes]

I see. I couldn't find the info easily either. I would just shoot him a PM and ask him about it directly.

[omni_840]

I would PM Rich Bryant (rbryant) about this he's the one who had the GB for these.

[iTurbo]

The original group buy was successful, as I was one of the buyers. I believe Rich has stated that he is not interested in making another run of them because of the pain in the --- it is to acquire the cores needed.

Here is a pic of the one I got. The L-body dual pivot is in front with a '90 Shadow ES K-frame is in the back, both powder coated black. If you look closely you can see the weld seam on the L-body version where it was narrowed; however there is more to it than simply narrowing the frame.

[83rampage]

I've got the K member already and plan on doing this myself. As I said if there is any info on this mod I wouldn't mind reviewing it first before I start cutting in case there are any pitfalls.

Mostly what I am after is the easy way to mod the lower left mounting point as shown on the lower K member in the picture. I read through the group buy thread and at the end it does show a more close up picture of that particular mod which pretty much gives me the info I need. I'll PM Rich and see if there is anything else I'm not seeing.

[iTurbo]

Ah yeah Rich is the man to talk to. I would post pictures but I'm not sure if it would be totally uncool to reveal industrial trade secrets lol.

[Badger]

I have one of Rich's K members and his front coilover setups on my Rampage. The truck handles so much better! I highly recommend it for any L body owners

[rbryant]

Thanks for the kind words guys.

It isn't a huge secret on how to do it. Making a dozen of them becomes a bit of a pain when you are trying to gather cores, arrange for powdercoating, etc, etc.

Instructions:

Basics:
Cut 1.5" out of the center of the car and then move the passenger front tower inward ~1".

Details:
Make sure to add a reinforcing plate about 1" wide over the center cut line on the back side of the frame to maintain it's strength.

Originally we modified the front tower to move the hole inward but later decided that it is better to just cut the whole tower off and slide it inward.
Both work fine but my fabrication guy made too many mistakes modifying the tower because it was hard to get it flat on the bottom side for the large bolt and washer.

For the last couple of them we cut it off at the seams, slid it inward ~1", and rewelded it the tower to the frame and it worked out better without as many mistakes...

-Rich

[knownenemy]

Understandably a pretty old thread, but wanted to suggest making it a sticky.

Thanks rbryant for the specs!

[knownenemy]

Began the task of converting the "G" K-Frame to my "L" body.

If you're following this thread, do the underside reinforcements I've added appear sufficient?

The initial welds(I had moved around a bit to avoid over heating any one area; laying a bunch of 1" beads).
This is the top-side, and I didn't add additional braces to this side, only the underside.


The braces I used already had 1/4" holes in them; I opened them more for plug welding(kinda):


Used similar braces for the final pieces on the ends(top and bottom)


Then I made the bobble strut bracket from 1/4", and wleded it in place


I also ran a bead across the front of the frame on either side to join the layers of material




Now, just to re-install the R/F frame mount "tower",
and I'll be good to go!

[knownenemy]

Thanks for the kind words guys.

It isn't a huge secret on how to do it. Making a dozen of them becomes a bit of a pain when you are trying to gather cores, arrange for powdercoating, etc, etc.

Instructions:

Basics:
Cut 1.5" out of the center of the car and then move the passenger front tower inward ~1".

Details:
Make sure to add a reinforcing plate about 1" wide over the center cut line on the back side of the frame to maintain it's strength.

Originally we modified the front tower to move the hole inward but later decided that it is better to just cut the whole tower off and slide it inward.
Both work fine but my fabrication guy made too many mistakes modifying the tower because it was hard to get it flat on the bottom side for the large bolt and washer.

For the last couple of them we cut it off at the seams, slid it inward ~1", and rewelded it the tower to the frame and it worked out better without as many mistakes...

-Rich

Thank you Rich.
These directions were of great value to me in this process,
and very accurate!

[knownenemy]

Here's a couple pics of the completed, painted K-Frame:




Thank you, once again to rbryant for the details and instructions provided for this mod.

I may have gone overboard with reinforcements,
but with the goals I have in mind for this vehicle,
I just can't be too safe.

[forcedfedmopar]

when doing this what control arms will you be using?

[knownenemy]

when doing this what control arms will you be using?

I have the stamped arms, but I'm going to get rid of the bushings and use conical bearings.

[forcedfedmopar]

I have the stamped arms, but I'm going to get rid of the bushings and use conical bearings.

Do the arms move the whee forward at all? what changes when using those arms?(other than the bushings)

[knownenemy]

Do the arms move the whee forward at all? what changes when using those arms?(other than the bushings)

Everything bolts up.
It's the same ball joint, MOOG #K7147 at RockAuto(or wherever)

The anti-sway bar is the only "hitch" at this point,
but only because I have yet to get into the job of it.

As for the positioning of the arms,
they are extremely close, if not exact by my measurements.

This was a mod of ALL improvements;
until I added excessive braces to the welds.
Then weight suffered a bit,
but in light of that, I'll be deleting the P/S.

[minigts]

Everything bolts up.
It's the same ball joint, MOOG #K7147 at RockAuto(or wherever)

The anti-sway bar is the only "hitch" at this point,
but only because I have yet to get into the job of it.

As for the positioning of the arms,
they are extremely close, if not exact by my measurements.

This was a mod of ALL improvements;
until I added excessive braces to the welds.
Then weight suffered a bit,
but in light of that, I'll be deleting the P/S.

Sway bar issue? What exactly? And why are you ditching the PS? Header or else?

[francois]

This was a mod of ALL improvements

Now, hold your horses!

Have you driven your car yet?
So, there...the best is yet to come!