running lean fwdp stage 5

[spiro440]

I just came back from the track, what a blast! During my last laps the vacuum hose that is plugged to the intake pop off. The car ran like crap of course. Got to the pits plug the hose back and everything was fine. On my way back home it started sputtering like it was missing fuel. Got home changed the distributor cap and wires. Ran a little better but he plugs where white. When I floor it the best I get is 13.6 on the wideband. I don't have any fault codes. At idle I get 14.8, Looked for any vacuum leaks and all is good.
The last laps where done with my brother at the wheel chasing a Z06. I had my eyes on the wideband all the time, and it alway hovered around 11.3 to 11.8. What could have happened! I still get good boost and the car does not ping. The fuel pressure is set at 42psi and at boost I get 60 psi.

[raccoon]

with the map unplugged it might of gone super rich and fouled your plugs. take a look at those.

---------- Post added at 04:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:14 PM ----------

edit sorry i didnt read.

[spiro440]

I removed them and they were white. Clean and white.
other ideas?

[turbovanman²]

Why is your fuel pressure set so low?

Unplug the battery and clear out the memory and see what happens.

[bakes]

did you blow the FPR vac of too by chance?

[Directconnection]

Why is your fuel pressure set so low?

Unplug the battery and clear out the memory and see what happens.

What he said. If the vacuum/boost source pops off and it is part of the MAP, it will go into limp mode until you reset the computer via disconecting the battery for a short while.

[spiro440]

Why is your fuel pressure set so low?

Unplug the battery and clear out the memory and see what happens.

Once I got the cal. I went to the dyno to optimise my adj. cam gear and set the fuel pressure for the best results.
I did clear the memory and nothing.

did you blow the FPR vac of too by chance?

That was checked to.
I also checked the timing belt to see if it jumped. That was good also. I went throught all the vacuum lines and found nothing.
The only thing I noticed was one of the plugs wires terminal was bent and loose on the spark plug, but why would I be running lean at full throttle??
The wide band is new since friday.

[glhs727]

do a fuel pressure test, so what the fuel pressure does when you get into boost and the fuel goes to 12+, is the pressure dropping or rising with boost. If dropping that would explain your higher a/f's and your fuel pump is going out....<br>If the fuel pressure holds, or rises like it should them you have an issue elsewhere. Start with fuel pressure and go from there....

[turbovanman²]

Fuel pressure testing 101-

First off, hook up a pressure guage to the shrader valve or tee in at the rubber line-engine cool and engine off.

Start the car and note fuel pressure, it should be around 50 or a bit less, unhook the vacuum line to the reg and it should go up to 55 psi. Now shut the car off and watch the fuel gauge, the pressure should stay. If not, pinch the pressure line-if it drops, you have a bad FPR or leaking injectors, if it holds, the check valve the in fuel pump is bad and the pump should be replaced.

Make sure the key is off, jump 12 volts to the coil + terminal, a fused jumper wire is best but a piece of wire will work just fine.

Now, you should be reading around 55 psi, now squeeze the return line, the pressure should jump to around 90-100 psi. If not, the pump is no good. You can check the FPR if you have a vacuum pump if not, the above test works.

These tests assume you have no leaks and a clean/newish fuel filter thats not plugged up.

If you have an amp clamp and a lab scope, you can check the brushes by looking at the waveform pattern, it should look like a nice sine wave.

[spiro440]

do a fuel pressure test, so what the fuel pressure does when you get into boost and the fuel goes to 12+, is the pressure dropping or rising with boost. If dropping that would explain your higher a/f's and your fuel pump is going out....<br>If the fuel pressure holds, or rises like it should them you have an issue elsewhere. Start with fuel pressure and go from there....

I got 42 psi at idle and 60psi at 18psi of boost
Secounds before popping the vacuum line everything was good. Full boost down the straight - brake hard - hairpin - full boost- hose pop!
The car at idle is great 14.8 a/f as soon as it gets out of vacuum (above 0 psi manifold pressure) it sputters. When I mash it, it will rise in boost and stop sputtering. And it runs lean.
No pingging with 94 octane.

---------- Post added at 05:24 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:21 AM ----------

Fuel pressure testing 101-

I wil try it, pretty sure it's good.
Never assume... I will do the test as soon as I get back.

[Force Fed Mopar]

Bad fuel injector o-ring maybe?

[spork]

You might also check all hose couplers. Make sure none or loose or have any small tears in them.

[spiro440]

Fuel pressure testing 101-

Fuel pressure testing 101 done and gets a passing score!

Bad fuel injector o-ring maybe?

All O-rings new


I will go at it again, I must be missing something stupide.
The car does not sputter any more. but it still runs lean.????

[Force Fed Mopar]

Running race gas? That kills some WBO2 sensors.

[spiro440]

Running race gas? That kills some WBO2 sensors.

Nope, pump gas 94 octane, brand new wideband O2 sensor.

[turbovanman²]

Fuel pressure testing 101 done and gets a passing score!

Check volume, one pint in 30 sec minimum.

[black86glhs]

Good call. You would think if pressure is good, volume would be. I've run into this before a couple times.

[spiro440]

Check volume, one pint in 30 sec minimum.

2 pints in 20 sec.
I did notice that the a/f was at 12.3 at idle with the return hose in the bucket and changed to 14.8 once the return was plugged back. If that is any info ou can use!!
I just ordered a new fuel filter for what it's worth. The one that's on now has only about 2000 miles on it.

[4 l-bodies]

Spiro where is A/F when it's is sputtering or when it used to sputter, or in other words A/F during transition into boost? You might throw another HEP and see if it acts any different. A bad HEP can cause you to to lose some hair (lol). The TPS might have developed a bad/worn spot on it where it runs lots of the time 2500-3500 RPM. Seen that before. Maybe try temporarily cranking up fuel pressure and test drive again to see if A/F changes at WOT. Have any way of testing spray pattern and flow of injectors? Can you monitor spark retard (DRB) on each cylinder while driving ?
Todd

[spiro440]

I was going to change the HEP but changed the wires and cap instead since I found a bad terminal boot. That seems to have solved the sputtering. When I accelerate hard the a/f dips to 15.xx and slowly makes it's way to 13.6 and that's the best I get. Thought about the tps, but at full throttle it should send a signal to go full rich. I'm wondering about the 02 sensor. I know it's a narrow band and just toggles from lean to rich, Usualy a should get a code for the O2 and it should also go rich. No way of checking spray patern.
Keep in mind it was running great until the hose poped. How many things could that screw up?? I do have a DRB that my friend gave to me. I never used it, He was supposed to come over but the beer usualy gets in the way!!