Hey guys - my GLHS is down at my buddies shop getting an exhaust put on and a fluke issue has presented itself. See below for a synopsis from my friend who works at the shop. Slightly long, but any help is much appreciated.
These are the steps/phases through the installation process described as thoroughly as possible.
1. We disconnected the negative terminal on the battery. Unhooked the existing O2 sensor. disconnected the old aftermarket exhaust cutting a middle section to get the whole exhaust out. Removed the exhaust from the exhaust housing by torching the two bolts and came out fine. There was small leak in the fuel line (return line) so we removed the old clamps and hose and connected a new fuel line and secured it with new clamps.
2. Torched bolts on the exhaust housing (5 total) and proceeded to remove the bolts. 4 of five bolt heads snapped during removal. After removing the last bolt, we were able to remove the old exhaust housing with swing valve. We used more torch time to remove remove 2 more bolts studs with vice grips and cherry hot temperatures. The other two were drilled out using reverse drill bits. Both drilled out bolts did not come out cleanly and we drilled to bolt thread specs and re-threaded the holes. Once we found 5 new bolts worthy of installing, we secured the exhaust housing with the five new bolts that were very similar in length and exact in thread.
3. We cut the remaining EGR pipe about 2 inches from the exhaust housing and squished it close. we finished the seal by welding a seam on the EGR pipe. We left all EGR vacuum and wiring alone.
4. We installed a new o2 bung for a aem wide band gauge and for tuning purposes approximately 18 inches from the down pipe. We drilled a hole for the O2 sensor and welded the bung.
5. We ran the wires for the new o2 sensor and attempted to remove the old o2 sensor. The old o2 sensor was seized and with a torch time, it was still very difficult to remove the old o2 sensor. We ordered a new sensor and installed and ran the wire up and connected it back to the harness.
6. After hooking welding the rest of the exhaust, we connected the new o2 gauge to power and secured all exhaust parts. Connected the battery and fired her up. It started after a few seconds but the vehicle did not run for more that five seconds. It did the same results every time we tried. Started up and fired fine. Ran. Sounded great but would cut off after a few seconds. We cycled the ignition 3 times to see what codes popped up. Code 26. injectors.
7. We tested the wires on the ignition and received a spark in all cylinders. we also were getting fuel for injectors for cylinders 3 and 4. 1 and 2 were not operating. we removed the connectors for injectors one and two and fitted a test light to see if the injector were even getting power. nothing to either 1 or 2. We applied direct power to the ignition solenoid to keep the car running even after it self cut. We knew then 1 and 2 were doing nothing. (pulled spark plug wires and no change in engine operation). Checked the 6 (or 5) prong connector before the injectors. Got power in the power slot. got ground. Were not getting a signal for injectors 1 and 2.
8. We determined that it could either be an issue with the PCM by the battery or the ECM in passenger kick panel. We ordered a remanufactured PCM and installed it. The car would not start at all. We are returning the part and ordered a second one to see if the issue will get better.
9. Waiting for the next PCM to come in and test to see that is the culprit.
Any suggestions? Any typical break point in the injector wiring?
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