Junkyard starts up with 2 year old E85. Runs like water :D

[Sundance 6g72]

yeah this car is strong. Ill be looking forward to bobbys dyno numbers when he gets it tuned

id expect your car to go faster. probably less weight and bigger cam and intake.

his motor is bored .040 over. does that make it a 3.2L ? .04 x 6 = .24

[Ondonti]

No, its a little over 3.0L with that bore. .096 overbore is only 3.13L.

Junkyard will hopefully race with a stock cam. I am not too worried about having everything done I want done.

[Ondonti]

The Junkyard now has full intermittent wipers. First time since I owned it that it has had wipers. Need to take some pictures. I made the wiper wiring nice but looking at the engine bay makes me grumpy because I never finished looming anything in 2010 thanks to an overwhelming desire for boost driving. Wiring under the dash needs some cleaning up because I have a few wires that must had been added last minute (like the antilag clutch switch) since they are hanging around grouped to nothing else and in my clutch foot area. I have a few more things I need to do but wipers was my main goal for making the car safe for Seattle. Probably burn the 2 year old Ethanol I have in the fuel cell and in gas cans and then convert to gasoline again.

[Sundance 6g72]

orr you could stay on e70-85 and run 13:1 compression pistons and lots of timing and deck the heads and run no headgaskets

[Ondonti]

Ouch. Burned my new tables to MS in the Duster then tried to start it and the ignition circuit fried. Its perma grounding the coil now :P Opened up the Ms box and that oldschool chip of mine is allll fried. (the oldschool non reset type). Should only happen with too much dwell I thought. Wonder what happened....

[Sundance 6g72]

..............................................

[Ondonti]

Grill is attached, bumper is fixed, front plate installed. Wipers. Tune Modified, VB921 (discontinued) coil driver fried as of today.

[paduster]

I hope that is repairable

[RoadWarrior222]

Looks it to me, but then it mighta taken a load of other components with it... in which case it's a bee-atch to figure what exactly to repair.

[87turbodance]

ouch. I'd cut that chip off and just mount a BIP373 in its place assuming the traces on the board are ok.

When did the chip fry? While burning your new tune for while trying to start it? A combination? Do you have your spark output set as inverted?

When you replace the IGBT with the BIP373 make make sure to use an insulated mounting tab and plastic screw.

I recommend do this:

"The ignition coil should be powered from the fuel pump relay. That gives additional protection against that kind of thing happening." jsmcortina - www.msextra.com

You're also better off using D14 to trigger the coil driver (IGBT) instead of JS10.




---------- Post added at 09:18 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:14 AM ----------

Looks it to me, but then it mighta taken a load of other components with it... in which case it's a bee-atch to figure what exactly to repair.

worst case it will burn the trace on the board. The load side of the IGBT is directly connected to both the ignition coil and high current ground.

[RoadWarrior222]

Restoring traces is do-able, copper tape, defogger paint, point to point jumper wires etc etc.

[Ondonti]

ouch. I'd cut that chip off and just mount a BIP373 in its place assuming the traces on the board are ok.

When did the chip fry? While burning your new tune for while trying to start it? A combination? Do you have your spark output set as inverted?

When you replace the IGBT with the BIP373 make make sure to use an insulated mounting tab and plastic screw.

I recommend do this:

"The ignition coil should be powered from the fuel pump relay. That gives additional protection against that kind of thing happening." jsmcortina - www.msextra.com

You're also better off using D14 to trigger the coil driver (IGBT) instead of JS10.




---------- Post added at 09:18 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:14 AM ----------



worst case it will burn the trace on the board. The load side of the IGBT is directly connected to both the ignition coil and high current ground.

Well the coil was permagrounding and one of my wire connections with tape on it was smoking. Coil was hot. Seems like the VB921 was permagrounded after melting. AKA every time I powered up it kept melting more. I checked and the VB921 is still grounding. I would assume the board is still happy enough because of that.

I will look at my wiring to see about a different power source (fuel pump relay). I guess mine is always on when they key is on.

What is the idea behind D14? Looks like thats one of my LED's. I guess I don't want to lose that?

I had another question, whats up with them suggesting a 330 ohm resistor with the bip373?

Set to "going high" inverted. Isn't that what they sugest? I am not running OEM wiring for any of that though. My own fuse boards and relays.
Thats what I have open on my lappy right now but I don't know what happened while I was in the car. I realized that I accidentally made the wrong firmware version of my new tune so I just exported and imported my changed tables. Not sure if I screwed something else before that.

[87turbodance]

I will look at my wiring to see about a different power source (fuel pump relay). I guess mine is always on when they key is on.

What is the idea behind D14? Looks like thats one of my LED's. I guess I don't want to lose that?

I had another question, whats up with them suggesting a 330 ohm resistor with the bip373?

I'd use the fuel pump output on MS to to pull in a relay to turn on the fuel pump, coil, injectors, alternator field and O2 heater. This way these these devices are off until the engine is spinning.

To connect your ignition coil to D14, change the jumper that connects from JS10 to IGBTIN. Instead connect the top of R26 (resistor near D14) to IGBTIN with a jumper. The top of R26 is the leg/lead facing up when holding the DB37 in your right hand with the processor facing you. Leave all the LED components in place and just solder the jumper wire to the top leg of R26. With this setup, D14 will flash each time the ignition coil is charged. If at any time in future you run wasted spark, the other two ignition coils would connect to the other two LED's resistors in the fame fashion.

The 330 ohm resistor is to protect the processor output pin from being damaged if the coil driver (IGBT) draws too much current.

If you change to D14, don't forget to change the coil output in Tuner Studio as well.

[Ondonti]

Unless I've confused myself (again), it's not the ignition circuit that dies from flyback, but rather the coil that dies from being maintained in a full-ON state for several seconds or even minutes. Depending on the particular firing circuit configuration, the 'basic' coil driver circuit is spring-loaded in the ON position, and the CPU has to tell the coil driver to turn OFF. If the processor is busy being reflashed, it doesn't know to do this, and the driver - powered along with the rest of the MS ECU - keeps allowing current to flow through the coil. And flow, and flow, and ...

This is why the on-screen instruction say to unplug the coils / pull the coil fuse(s) while flashing the MS.

Sounds like something that happened to me. Not sure exactly how yet. I was not burning when starting but in an always on condition, my weak link was the vb921.

[RoadWarrior222]

Hmmm my googlefu informs me that no-one likes those, 7A max coil current

[Ondonti]

I'd use the fuel pump output on MS to to pull in a relay to turn on the fuel pump, coil, injectors, alternator field and O2 heater. This way these these devices are off until the engine is spinning.

To connect your ignition coil to D14, change the jumper that connects from JS10 to IGBTIN. Instead connect the top of R26 (resistor near D14) to IGBTIN with a jumper. The top of R26 is the leg/lead facing up when holding the DB37 in your right hand with the processor facing you. Leave all the LED components in place and just solder the jumper wire to the top leg of R26. With this setup, D14 will flash each time the ignition coil is charged. If at any time in future you run wasted spark, the other two ignition coils would connect to the other two LED's resistors in the fame fashion.

The 330 ohm resistor is to protect the processor output pin from being damaged if the coil driver (IGBT) draws too much current.

If you change to D14, don't forget to change the coil output in Tuner Studio as well.

So I am noticing that I was reading MS1 instructions and MS2 for the 3.0 board and 3.0 engine doesn't have these requirements (mine doesn't have a resistor).
Also read on neon's that you only really need to change to D14 if you need expansion room and want to use JS10 for something else (like a cam trigger). Right now I don't need that so I want to avoid soldering anymore then I have to (something I suck at).
I would like to buy a nice soldering iron though cause whatever I have is garbage.

Going to require some modifications of my wiring and fuse blocks to get the power corrected.

I need to read up more on that flyback "always on" thing because it seems crazy to disconnect my coil every time I want to burn something. Super stupid. I guess as long as the fuel pumps are not going I would know the coil is not powered so it doesn't matter. Flashing seems to fast since I could do it on the fly so I don't really understand this flyback thing.

Going to work so I will have to absorb more of this later.

[87turbodance]

As long as you connect the ignition coil and injector power through the fuel pump relay you wont have an issue. Fly-back is not the issue. The issues is that the output on the processor is held on whenever the MS is powered but not running the engine software - ie. when flashing your MS in car. The only happens when flashing new firmware. If you were just flashing some new tables then it shouldn't happen then.

You don't have to change the IGBT wiring but I only suggest it since you will soldering in a new IGBT anyway. A basic ten dollar soldering iron and LEAD solder work very well for working on MS. Don't use LEAD free solder because it sucks! Just don't breath in the smoke and wash your hands when you're done.

[Ondonti]

Well the LED style IGNT power sourcing sounds like something for a more complex MS build. I don't want this box to get too far because its not a long term solution for the Duster. Future would be MS3 or AEM etc. MS2 could then be installed in another car that doesn't need to be pushed very far (since I only have one functional Injector driver and Nathan could not fix it).

[Sundance 6g72]

i cant remember how i wired mine but i want to say i did it like ryan says.. i sure hope :/

[87turbodance]

It's not a more complex setup, it's just moving a wire and adding an inline resistor. It ensures you are running the recommended and most current wiring scheme. Also, there is nothing stopping you from plugging a MS3 chip into this board and having an MS3. The second injector channel that doesn't work shouldn't be difficult to fix unless the processor output pin is dead but that would be fixed by installing an MS3 card or a replacement MS2 card. An MS3 card also adds eight additional injector channels and eight addition coil channels meaning you wouldn't even need to use the existing injector drivers on your MS board.