WOT box on a Spirit R/T?

[KillerTSI]

Back in 09 I had a WOT box on my nsrt-4 and it was great. When you depress the clutch it kills spark for however long you set it. Would it work on a Spirit R/T also sense it is also distributor less? I know it would be wired in ok but would it mess with the ECU in any way?

[KillerTSI]

Anyone? I am afraid it will throw code 43 (ignition control circuit not responding)..

Paging Shellgame Rob! Lol

[shackwrrr]

Have one on my car and it works fine and doesn't set a code.

For some reason it doesn't pop loudly or build much boost though.

[KillerTSI]

It does not pop during 2-step? The one on my srt did but the one on my Talon did not. I know you can adjust the 2-step to just about whatever you want. On my srt I had it set for 4k on drag radials and on my talon I had it set for 5500rpm on street tires. Got to love awd! The Talon would build about 10psi on the 2-step and I can't remember what the srt would do other then spin half way down the track once I hit 2nd gear. I think the track was prepped well close to the tree but once I hit second, however far down the track I was it got slick and my SRT would lite up the BFgoodrich DRs I was using. I actually still have those tires on a set of black SRT wheels.

[turbovanman²]

I think it would work fine, its designed for a coil pack, I even emailed them and it will work with dizzy's too.

Rob should have this in his TIII cals, I would contact him about it.

[KillerTSI]

I speak to Rob quite often. He was unsure if it would effect the ECU or not. I am sure it will work fine also. Jeff O of dsmchips.com has a nice setup for his chips where he set them up with a clutch wire so the 2-step is actually built in and could be adjusted in three settings (of your choosing when you request the chip) by simply turning the key to the on position and then tapping the gas pedal. Setting one would show the factory boost gauge at 0, setting two would show the gauge at 5psi, and setting three would show 10psi. His no lift to shift option was great for its time but it was not adjustable. If the chip was burned to no lift at 6k and you didn't hit the clutch at 6k exactly then it didn't work. It was also not setup to kill ignition all together but merely reduce it. If you hit the no lift perfectly at 6k the it would not kill ignition for a certain amount of programmed time like the wot box but, simply cut the RPM's back to 3500 for an easier shift. It was cool but the wot box is better altogether..

---------- Post added at 06:29 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:23 AM ----------

I know Dodge electronics are better then Mitsubishi so I am sure their could be some kind of 2-step built in to the ecu code. I would rather not have the no lift built in because I love the way you can program the time on the box by holding the button and counting the flashes.

[ShelGame]

2-step is not a problem. The problem has been getting spark-cut to work. Our stock rev limiters are a fuel cut. I think I have it figured out now... but I've thought that before . I need to test what I've got with my SMEC; and if it works I can cascade it to the other ECU's pretty quickly.

SWOL is a little bit trickier. Do our manual cars have a neutral switch? Does it go active in between gears? Otherwise, we'd have to use the clutch switch, which kind of defeats the purpose I think. We have to have some way to tell the ECU to cut power. How does the WOTbox do that?

[KillerTSI]

The wot box uses the switch that tells the ecu when the clutch is pressed so you can start the car. Neutral safety.

The wot box wires in between two wires and makes an open circuit of the ignition circuit when the clutch is pressed. It makes the open for a programmed amount of time. I know what people who read this think, "Well, if it makes an open then how would you start the car with the clutch in?".. Easy, there is also a wire that reads the throttle position so if the throttle plate is closed the car can start.

[turismolover22]

You would also have to make that WOT box setup for both daily driving and strip. The problem with having a switch thats dependent on both the switch itself AND the TPS readings is that once you leave the clutch out and gas it, there is a potential for the car to sputter out and die.

IIRC, our ECUs read WOT at a voltage above 3.4? (someone who knows for sure would have to correct me) Potentially you COULD make this work, as a piggy back setup, on any car. It would require some electrical work, but basically it takes two signals.

In DD mode, it ignores any input, (basically shut "off") and the switch/circuit board jumpers the + side of the coil so you have spark.

When you switch it on, it uses a series of resistors/relays that switch the + side of the coil from a straight signal (say from the PM to the + side of the coil) to the WOT switch, located on the clutch pedal. Might have to make a bracket that holds the momentary switch at the right position, but I digress. When the clutch is depressed, it would kill the power to the coil, killing spark.

Now, to make this work, you would have to set it up something like this. Run the voltage "return" line for the TPS (that sends the TPS position voltage to the PM) in parallel to the WOT switch module. This would more than likely be mounted in the engine bay. The voltage runs into a circuit board to run the board, but remains parallel so that the car can still fully funtion and not throw TPS codes.

Then the TPS voltage would run into a series of resistors that would resist the voltage until the voltage was high enough to affect/pass through and activate the relay.

Like stated, the relay would switch the power from simply jumpering the coil+ wire to the coil from the PM, to running the coil wire to the momentary switch on the clutch pedal. Now when the clutch pedal is depressed, and the WOT switch is activated and has the proper voltages to switch the relay, spark cut-off is controlled by the clutch pedal only.

So when the pedal is to the floor, and you hit the clutch, the spark kills. And when you popped the clutch back in, the spark would continue, OR if you let off the gas. Either way, could be viable. Potentially, you could also control fuel this way too, if you wanted to mess with it. But being a mechanical setup, this is probably a far cry from what an electronic setup would do.

Kinda an out-there setup, but I dont see why this wouldnt work to simply cut spark.

[86Shelby]

Here's how it works guys. http://www.n2mb.com/ No need to do anything special for startup or non-WOT driving.

The only thing that may throw a wrench in the plans to use this setup is what kind of signal the box is expecting from the cam sensor. The R/Ts are a little wierd in that regard since the cam signal shows up like this 1...11...111...1111... and repeats itself. If the box can work with that instead of a regular signal such as 1...1...1...1... I see no reason why it cannot be used on the R/Ts. Using the crank sensor may be an option even though it's a screwy signal too being 1111....1111....1111.... Go ahead and contact them to see what they say about compatibility.

[shackwrrr]

Here's how it works guys. http://www.n2mb.com/ No need to do anything special for startup or non-WOT driving.

The only thing that may throw a wrench in the plans to use this setup is what kind of signal the box is expecting from the cam sensor. The R/Ts are a little wierd in that regard since the cam signal shows up like this 1...11...111...1111... and repeats itself. If the box can work with that instead of a regular signal such as 1...1...1...1... I see no reason why it cannot be used on the R/Ts. Using the crank sensor may be an option even though it's a screwy signal too being 1111....1111....1111.... Go ahead and contact them to see what they say about compatibility.

Why is everyone over thinking this???? I have one on my car, it works fine. It uses signal from an injector. It does not set a code.

[shackwrrr]

You would also have to make that WOT box setup for both daily driving and strip. The problem with having a switch thats dependent on both the switch itself AND the TPS readings is that once you leave the clutch out and gas it, there is a potential for the car to sputter out and die.

IIRC, our ECUs read WOT at a voltage above 3.4? (someone who knows for sure would have to correct me) Potentially you COULD make this work, as a piggy back setup, on any car. It would require some electrical work, but basically it takes two signals.

In DD mode, it ignores any input, (basically shut "off") and the switch/circuit board jumpers the + side of the coil so you have spark.

When you switch it on, it uses a series of resistors/relays that switch the + side of the coil from a straight signal (say from the PM to the + side of the coil) to the WOT switch, located on the clutch pedal. Might have to make a bracket that holds the momentary switch at the right position, but I digress. When the clutch is depressed, it would kill the power to the coil, killing spark.

Now, to make this work, you would have to set it up something like this. Run the voltage "return" line for the TPS (that sends the TPS position voltage to the PM) in parallel to the WOT switch module. This would more than likely be mounted in the engine bay. The voltage runs into a circuit board to run the board, but remains parallel so that the car can still fully funtion and not throw TPS codes.

Then the TPS voltage would run into a series of resistors that would resist the voltage until the voltage was high enough to affect/pass through and activate the relay.

Like stated, the relay would switch the power from simply jumpering the coil+ wire to the coil from the PM, to running the coil wire to the momentary switch on the clutch pedal. Now when the clutch pedal is depressed, and the WOT switch is activated and has the proper voltages to switch the relay, spark cut-off is controlled by the clutch pedal only.

So when the pedal is to the floor, and you hit the clutch, the spark kills. And when you popped the clutch back in, the spark would continue, OR if you let off the gas. Either way, could be viable. Potentially, you could also control fuel this way too, if you wanted to mess with it. But being a mechanical setup, this is probably a far cry from what an electronic setup would do.

Kinda an out-there setup, but I dont see why this wouldnt work to simply cut spark.

We are talking about a product that is already made and widely used, you didn't have to re-invent it.

[86Shelby]

I never thought about using an injector signal; that's quite ingenious! I was stuck on the cam/crank signal aspect.

[turbovanman²]

Why is everyone over thinking this???? I have one on my car, it works fine. It uses signal from an injector. It does not set a code.

That's what we do, lol.

[turismolover22]

Lol if we didn't re-invent it, for a cheaper price, we wouldn't have money to replace the other failing parts on our cars lol

[Ondonti]

TPS % or voltage plus RPM setpoint and its not going to go off unless you don't know how to drive a 5 speed or have it set somewhere that its completely useless anyways.