fuel pump upgrade

[turbospirites]

I was thinking about buying something like this for my 1990 dodge spirit es 2.5l turbo I have 3/8 steel braided lines on it and billet fuel rail, Would it work?or anything else to recommend.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRF-MP-4701/ or http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AEI-11106/

[tryingbe]

How much power are you planning to make?

[turbospirites]

I run 32psi of boost around 500 hp

[turbospirites]

I'm just getting a little tired of priming the pump 3 to 5 times before it starts

[cordes]

I'm just getting a little tired of priming the pump 3 to 5 times before it starts

That's one thing I really wish we could adjust in the cals easily. Last I checked that wasn't possible.

Either way that's a heck of a flow rate increase if it'll do the job on the first prime vs. 3-5.

[turbovanman²]

That's one thing I really wish we could adjust in the cals easily. Last I checked that wasn't possible.

Either way that's a heck of a flow rate increase if it'll do the job on the first prime vs. 3-5.

Its not the cals fault. What current pump are you running? How many times have you changed it?

Which ever pump you use in the link, you need an intank pump to feed them, or add a section to the tank so they are lower than the tank otherwise they won't work properly.

My old setup was a weak 255 intank pump and in inline 255 pump and its plenty of fuel for 500+ whp. The intank finally died so running another 255 fuel pump, starts instantly,

[Ondonti]

You have something out of wack if that is your problem. Bad regulator, etc etc etc.

What pump do you already have that is supporting 500hp?

[turbospirites]

255 LPH Walbro pump barley even used probably has not even 500 miles on it. 72lbhr injectors 3/8 steel braided line Accufab adjustable fuel regulator. that is what my fuel system is running.

[cordes]

Its not the cals fault. What current pump are you running? How many times have you changed it?

Which ever pump you use in the link, you need an intank pump to feed them, or add a section to the tank so they are lower than the tank otherwise they won't work properly.

My old setup was a weak 255 intank pump and in inline 255 pump and its plenty of fuel for 500+ whp. The intank finally died so running another 255 fuel pump, starts instantly,

You have something out of wack if that is your problem. Bad regulator, etc etc etc.

What pump do you already have that is supporting 500hp?

Many people have this problem when they go to the bigger fuel rail and braided line. The pump only kicks on for a set period of time to prime the system. That constant can't supply the fuel for the added volume in the system.

[fishcleaner]

Wasn't there a run off chinese knock-off Walbro pumps out there? you probably have one of them.

[contraption22]

Many people have this problem when they go to the bigger fuel rail and braided line. The pump only kicks on for a set period of time to prime the system. That constant can't supply the fuel for the added volume in the system.

Makes perfect sense. Its not like the pump shuts off once 55psi is reached with the the engine off. If it did, there would be no issue.

[turbovanman²]

255 LPH Walbro pump barley even used probably has not even 500 miles on it. 72lbhr injectors 3/8 steel braided line Accufab adjustable fuel regulator. that is what my fuel system is running.

Where did you get the pump? Either the pump is bad or the reg is no good, possible leaking injector too.

Many people have this problem when they go to the bigger fuel rail and braided line. The pump only kicks on for a set period of time to prime the system. That constant can't supply the fuel for the added volume in the system.

They are designed to hold pressure, if not, then something is wrong, it should prime instantly or hold pressure key off.

[turbospirites]

I got the pump from fwd performance back in 05 or so i never really drove the car at all (probably 500 miles on it) I'm trying to get it back on the road I got plenty of money to upgrade things on the Accufab fuel pressure regulator you half to turn the thing in clockwise to get the fuel pressure up right? i put 3/8 fuel line and 3/8 return lines on it just having small problems with fuel.

[cordes]

Where did you get the pump? Either the pump is bad or the reg is no good, possible leaking injector too.



They are designed to hold pressure, if not, then something is wrong, it should prime instantly or hold pressure key off.

It think you're missing the issue at hand in this situation. There is too much volume in the system for the pump to pressurize given the short key-on-prime time. If this were a stock volume fuel system I would agree with you 100%.

[fishcleaner]

I think the 3/8" return line isn't helping you, try splicing in a 1/4" line and see if that helps

[turbovanman²]

It think you're missing the issue at hand in this situation. There is too much volume in the system for the pump to pressurize given the short key-on-prime time. If this were a stock volume fuel system I would agree with you 100%.

Has nothing to do with it, I know of and have worked on lots of cars with upgraded fuel lines, they hold pressure and fire right up. Either his pump went bad from sitting or his reg is no good.

[iTurbo]

I'm going to have to agree with Simon here. I have upgraded my Spirit R/T with 3/8" fuel hard line for both supply and return and use -6AN braided stainless flexible line to attach the hard line to fuel rail etc...I even modified the fuel pump hangar/sending unit so that there is 3/8" hard tube running in/out of the tank with no more quick disconnects or clamps of any kind throughout the system! I have a 255 ltr/hr pump from FWD Performance in that car and it started right up without having to prime more than once.

Here is something to consider though, I did have a Nippondenso starter in the car and it turned the motor over more quickly than the Bosch starter. Not to mention is just made the car sound like a more modern car starting up for whatever that is worth.

[Juggy]

could be a clogged fuel filter, or the sock fell off. 500miles would be the perfect time to clog up a bare fuel pump...been there done that.

[cordes]

I'm going to have to agree with Simon here. I have upgraded my Spirit R/T with 3/8" fuel hard line for both supply and return and use -6AN braided stainless flexible line to attach the hard line to fuel rail etc...I even modified the fuel pump hangar/sending unit so that there is 3/8" hard tube running in/out of the tank with no more quick disconnects or clamps of any kind throughout the system! I have a 255 ltr/hr pump from FWD Performance in that car and it started right up without having to prime more than once.

Here is something to consider though, I did have a Nippondenso starter in the car and it turned the motor over more quickly than the Bosch starter. Not to mention is just made the car sound like a more modern car starting up for whatever that is worth.

I wonder if some of the code bases have a little longer prime shot? There are too many guys with this issue on healthy fuel systems for it to be simply bad fuel systems. Especially since it only happens on systems with increased volume.

[iTurbo]

^ That I do not know. It very well could be that the Spirit R/T had a longer ms priming shot but I can't answer that.

If it helps anybody, the fuel system on my red Spirit R/T consisted of a modified sending unit with 3/8" steel tube welded in place of the factory tubes for both supply and return. The sending unit was outfitted with a Walbro 255 ltr/hr pump from FWDP. Then, I used hard tube-to-AN adapters to convert the 3/8" tubes coming out of the sending unit to male -6AN, and then attached 6AN braided stainless steel hose which then went to 3/8" aluminum tube that I flared with an AN flare tool and used -6AN tube sleeves and nuts. The 3/8" aluminum tube went all the way to the underhood area where I relocated the fuel filter underhood and used an Russel -6AN I/O fuel filter, which then used more -6AN SS braided line to connect to a FWDP fuel rail which then fed a set of MP +20% injectors. FPR was and adjustable Accufab rail-mount unit.

As far as I can remember, the car started up no problem with only a few revolutions of the starter motor, just like any car would. I do remember that I tested the dead head pressure by crimping the return line shut and it was quite low, like only 75 psi, but the car always started right up near instantly.