MPG? Go 14" aluminum for sure... picked up ~1-2mph in my neon vs. steel 14's ... can hit 40mpg on highway now
MPG? Go 14" aluminum for sure... picked up ~1-2mph in my neon vs. steel 14's ... can hit 40mpg on highway now
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Another consideration is the hub covers, even though they added another pound or so a wheel on the voyager, it got 1mpg more on the highway with the covers on on the steelies. These were the flattish ones with like small turbine blades round the edge... since the tires are so different though, and I've had no "regular route" and various issues with the voyager since the pumpers went on, I can't speak as to particular effect of the shape of those on aero for mpg... I suspect though, just the extra width and the fact they are a little further out of the arches than the steelies, isn't good.
If I was picking what TM wheels I wanted for mpg, I'd go for pizzas or crabs I think.... or those imperial steelies and my plymouth hubcovers
DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!
Not doing oems, just getting weights of ours vs the aftermarkets i'm shopping for. The goal is to see how many lbs rotating weight i can save all around. The 18lb rims are cheap, but anything 16lb and under gets deeper. New 16lb rims would save us 16lbs total vs stock alloys, and waiting to see final confirmed weight on steels. IF steels are say 25lb ea, that's 9lbs x4= 36lbs total shaved rolling weight. I would pay for that and get my money back in savings in a year or so, which is fine...
how much does tire weight factor in here? obviously a smaller wheel would weigh less in most cases but the amount of tire increases to keep factory sizing. And i'm sure tire quality would play a big role in tire weight. Iv'e picked up some crazy heavy low pro tires before so.... just wanted to throw that out there since we are splitting hairs about wheel weight.
Generally, as the tire gets lower profile there will be more material in the sidewall to keep it stiffer and act as a "rim protector" because there's a shorter distance and not as much air to absorb pohotles. So yah, tires for the same overall diameter, you tend to stay in the same weight range on the tire.
For lower rolling resistance, there's supposed to be a sweet spot around about 65 profile... I think this is because, that with the inside depth of the rim, you get a near circular section, which means minimum surface area for the air inside, and the tire package as a whole. This I think means minimum radiation of heat from the work done on the air inside the tire, where the weight on it and rotation works like an inefficient gerotor pump... and frictional loss inside the tire is minimised. So you get a pressure rise (Normal and designed for) due to heat which keeps the flat spot not so flat, and a constant running pressure, reaching equilibrium with the work done and heat dissipation, which is less lossy than a lower profile which or higher profile which radiate heat from sidewall or tread more, and running pressure isn't so optimum... the flat spot remaining flatter and the pumping effect remaining greater.... At the same time, although it runs "rounder", because it's maintaining optimum running termperature, it is more compliant and deforms more readily under applied loads (cornering braking etc.)
This might apply mostly on the recommended rim size, the fitting rim, forgot what it's called... I think with going to 215 I don't have so much of that benefit as if I went with 205, since although it's in the range of rim fitments it's towards one side, not in the middle. However, I kinda took what they had when they were on special.
DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!
They are, I ran some 17's off of a MK4 on my Spirit 2 years ago. Factory wheels are going to be heavier though. If you're wheel shopping on Tire Rack or other sites put in a 2003 ish Golf or Jetta. You will get many more results than what they list for our cars. Nearly all of them will fit.
Actually I would run nuts off a Honda, since most VWs have bolts instead of studs and nuts. Again, at least in my experience.
The VW's have the same 57 mm center bore that our cars take. I used a stock style set of capped nuts and they held torque fine. Though they may not have been the correct seat?
If the wheels used a cone seat from the factory, then our stock lug nuts should work. If they used a ball seat, then 12mm Honda nuts will work.
whats the wheel weight of srt-4 wheels anyone know?
What I am curious on is what do the mesh wheels weigh? Hopefully not 18 to 20.
For drag rears.. the 5x100 alloy neon spare is four or five pounds less than the imperial alloys.
MinivanRider
So let me get this straight, if the imperial alloys are known to weigh 12 lbs and your saying the neon alloy spare weighs 4-5 lbs less than that? That would put the weight of the wheel at 7-8 lbs! That seems really... improbable. Who has actually dismounted the tire and weighed the wheel?