nice comparison pics. Thanks A.J.!
nice comparison pics. Thanks A.J.!
I also tried the minivan condenser, but the problem with that was the angle of the inlet/outlet tubes would put the AC lines right into the alternator.
What I ended up doing was using a stock L-body condenser, which is a bit narrower than the non-l body condenser. I mounted it about an inch to the right of where it would have fit naturally, and I had plenty of room to fit 2.5" piping through where the stock intercooler used to be.
When we put a dual-core stocker on Fleckster's Spirit R/T (stock R/T radiator and AC Condenser), we ended up just sliding the stock condenser to the right by a couple of inches and fabricating brackets to hold it in place. That gave us enough room to run the pipes through where the stock intercooler used to be.
But if you're going to go with a full-size non-intercooled radiator, I think you're going to have to do some cutting or else go under the core support with the tubes.
Warren Hall
"My Name is Warren and my car is an alcoholic..."
OVC - SDAC "Our Sh*t Rolls!"
Cincinnati, OH
87 CSX # 741
317WHP - 380 WFt-Lbs (STD-5)
12.460 @ 113.2 - Race Gas + Methanol Injection
12.749 @ 109.84 - 91 octane + Methanol Injection (Still tuning...)"Illegitimi non carborundum."-General Joseph StillwellTD Runlogger Page Has Moved...
You can bend the tubes a little to get the angle you need. I did on my '88 mini-van went I swapped out the '88 single pass condenser for a later multi-pass condenser because the angle wasn't just right. I also had to bend the tubes to get the correct angle on my Dad's '85 factory condenser. Just be careful when you bend so you don't go to far and break it.
A.J.
This is how I did it. There is know ac it this pic, but it was made so that all the stock ac parts worked.
Aright, after looking at my options, it looks like the R/T is getting an all-new cooling package. I really hate the way the stock R/T condenser mounts, the aftermarket full size radiators are likely junk, and I'm tired of dealing with junk parts. You guys have inspired me.
I'm going to go after an Omni condenser, aftermarket Griffin radiator, then get a front mount cooler with the inlet and outlet on the same side. I have all of the old parts out of the car and the front end is removed. It's now time to order all the goodies and put it back together.
I can't wait to see the end result. I really enjoyed checking out that car at 18.
The Griffin radiator arrived yesterday. It's a work of art! I need to remove the old condenser to get it in its final position but I think it's going to work. I may need to make a custom lower radiator hose, but that shouldn't be a big deal. I should have the rest of the parts on Saturday.
Not completly off track install a R134 semi-factory style system in GLHT. http://www.nostalgicairparts.com/ was used for aftermarket condensor. enclosed picssize is 14x22
That's a good fit. I also like the mounting provisions. I decided to go with the Caravan condenser and I'll bend the tubes to get the ports at the correct angle. For $68 shipped it's worth a shot. I hope my radiator survives in the GLHS, as I really don't want to go through this again in an even tighter engine compartment!
The Caravan condenser is going to work, but it's taking a little more work than I originally expected. I'll post pictures of it mounted when I get a chance.
Here my FMIC with A/C
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...w-Turbo-amp-IC
I picked up a used AC Condenser from the junkyard (accidentally tested it and was still charged) out of a 95ish Caravan and it went in easily. Here's an attached pic of it mounted in my 92' IROC R/T. Definitely enjoy my working AC in the summer. You can barely tell it's even there.
I have an update after driving the car around this summer. The car continues to have a coolant leak, and I've decided it's coming from the bottom of the head. The cooling system holds pressure quite well (compressed air), but I constantly get puddles of coolant on the differential and drips down the back of the engine. It's not a heater hose, or turbo line, and with my UV dye I don't see any obvious culprits.
The end result is I'm finally pulling the head after ~90K miles. It was time for a new timing belt and valve cover gaskets, so now is the time to see what's going on on the bottom of the head. This is my first T3 teardown, so I'm sure it's going to be a blast!
That is most likely seeping oil galley plugs on the bottom of the head softening the headgasket causing leaks.
Ian Adams Function>Form 1990 shadow scrapped, too rusty:( 1991 Spirit R/T Scrapped, parts sold:( 1989 Turbo Caravan Daily beater with built-[I]ish [/I]engine slowly evolving into weekend turbo beater.
So, after 3 years the Griffin radiator is complete junk. The tube to header joints leak, and some of the tubes have leaks as well. The car is now down until I get a replacement radiator. It looks like I can get a new Copper/brass L body radiator for about $150. I'm going to check the dimensions and see if this will work. I don't know if I'm interested in trying another aluminum radiator. I parted out a Toyota minivan with an all-aluminum radiator and it was full of leaks too.