Well we need to start seeing TM's going fast. It's cheap and it's easy. The ball's in our court here guys, we have the overall advantage of going fast for next-to-nothing and keeping it reliable. You can't doubt our engines and transmissions are strong.
So here's my list of how to make that Turbo Mopar a freaking beast!
(1. Open that exhaust
(A. Buy an exhaust cut out!!!!!!!!! I cannot stress this enough. In all 5 of our Turbo Mopars, every one has a cut out that sits after the downpipe, and everyone has shaved 3/10 off the 1/4 mile. Better boost response and way more top end power, yo. They're about $45. Cheap, just weld it in, works great.
(B. Port that exhaust manifold too! Our cars benefit more on the exhaust side. A big exhaust manifold will not only help spool up but also high end power due to increased flow.
(C. Invest into a 2.5" or even 3" SV and downpipe.
(2. Spark plugs...
Don't ever use NGK Platinum plugs. The tips will break off and destroy your turbine wheel.
Use the stock Champion RN12YC's. I haven't had any luck with the RN9YC's (a colder spark plug, supposed to be a track only plug). It would continously miss at the line, couldn't build any boost. POS IMO. Don't listen to the V8 guys. They're retards. As the boost goes up the spark plug gap goes down. Stock gap is .035" and stock boost is anywhere from 7-11psi. Hm, now if you're running say 20psi, at .035" how much of that spark will become distrupted due to the increased cylinder pressure? Probally a lot. Bring the gap down to shorten the distance. Helps a lot. W
While we're at it, base ignition timing should start at 12* and work your way accordingly from there. That's stock BTW.
(3. Intake
Okay it doesn't help "that much" but anything will help to get that intake charge down. Put the filter in a cold place will it will get direct air. Behind the grill works best. Keep hot oil and coolant lines away from the intake/intercooler pipes. Try and keep those intake/intercooler lines away from the tranny and head too. Especially the head. The head gets hot.
(4. Intercooling
A stocker is only good for so much. At 20psi you can't even touch mine TII's outlet end tank it's so hot. They get heat soaked very quickly. Mine's even mounted as a front mount.
Upgrade to anything from the stocker. Honestly, screw the stock intercoolers. Someone has yet to prove that any other stock intercooler will flow/cool as well as an aftermarket unit. Don't buy some beer or cigarrettes for 2 weeks, save up for an intercooler.
(5. Intercooler pipes
2" pipes work good for around 14-16psi, any higher I'd go with 2.5". Those should be good for as high as 28psi. Try to avoid any tight bends. Tight areas cause turbulence, turbulence causes a pressure drop in the boost, pressure drop causes the turbo to work harder, spin faster, and generate more heat. Got it?Heat = bad.
(6. Porting the head works wonders. So I've heard. I'll post my experience with a stock head to a ported head.
(7. Turbo
Upgrading the turbo works awesome. Less heat expansion, greater flow, higher boost potential. Overall efficiency. Especially from stock. Ditch that T3 Garrett or crap Mitsu. If you have a mitsu, a Garrett is a great upgrade. If you have a Garrett your next best bet is a hybrid. Be careful when going aftermarket. Look at your long term goals and present confirguration as well. The turbo will have to match it. Ask for advice on here before buying a turbo! I got lucky.
(8. Upping the boost
(A. Fuel
+20's are usually good for around 15-21psi of boost. People have used rising rate regulators to squeeze much more pressure and use the injectors to perform like they're bigger. I don't reccommend that. Use an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and just upgrade the injector sizes.
+40's are usually good for 21-26psi. So I've heard. Anyone have any experience with the limits of the 40's?
(A1. Pumps
To run over 16psi it's reccommended to use a 190 L/Hr fuel pump or why not spend the few extra cents and buy the 255 L/Hr fuel pump. It helps.
(A2. Regulating
When adding larger injectors you'll need to lower the base pressure in order to prevent it from running too rich. An Accufab (new style) or FM (old style) adjustable fuel pressure regulator is what you'll want. I'd also purchases a 0-60psi Summit Racing fuel pressure gauge. It's way more accurate than the 0-80 or 0-100 psi gauges.
(B. Boost control
I use an in-cabin mounted HP Performance MBC. I use 2' of vaccum line on each side. It only spikes 1psi and doesn't creep. Complete control at my fingertips.Sorry I have ADD.
The boost controller will aid in boost response and total control.
(B1. Going past 14.7
You have a few choices of going past 14.7psi (2 bar)
1-A manual cut out raiser. This allows a certain cut out point
2-A diode. This sends a false signal to the MAP sensor making the cut out point however high you set the voltage to.
3-A MAP clamp. This clamps the vaccum line and again, allows the cut out point to be wherever you want
4-A 3bar MAP sensor, which brings the cut out point to 29.4psi.
(C. Beefing up internals
Not really neccassary but advised.
Folks have ran up to 28psi on the stock bottom end and made continous passes. I'm running 20-21 psi on the original 114,000 mile block and head. No parts have ever been freshened up internally except for the oil pump and rod bearings.
It's advised to use oversized forged pistons and Clevite bearings.
So to wrap everything up, get air into and out of the engine as quick as possible, get the intake charge as cool as possible, and keep your Air/Fuel ratio fat and happy.
G'luck folks
-Bryan
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Originally Posted by Whorse
12.57@104 :O) 
So what is this, you dropped two seconds off by adding meth. injection?
Clay
