Okay after seeing people dumping all this money into their vehicles and running so many pounds of boost but still stuck in the 13's or 14's, I've decided to hopefully educate people here for how to race your TM properly and how to make it go its fastest. Every TM has potential for atleast 13's or 12's. It's very easy, can be very cheap, so let's kick some a$$ folks. It's disapointing to see people still in the 15's. Up the boost, open that exhaust, freeze that intake charge.
With that said, here's my writeup to make your TM a freaking rocket.
(1.Traction
Most of the problems people are having are in the first 60'. Coming off the line is the hardest yet most important part of drag racing. Our cars are naturally torquey vehicles. We're torque monsters. This makes traction difficult to attain. Invest into some slicks or even drag radials.
(A. Warming up the slicks or drag radials.
Doing a burnout is an important part to making those tires stick. Pull into the burnout box and go through out. You want the bottom of the slick about 2 inches past the box. This will put a little load on the differential, causing it to "lock up" just a bit and spinning both tires. It might transfer between tires a bit, but for the most part it will spin both if done right.
If you have an auto, bring up the boost and get into 1st gear lightly, short shift into 2nd and nail it. Take it up through 2nd for about 3 seconds then let off. Don't forget to set the e-brake.... if it works.
A manual, okay I've never raced a turbo manual. I'm not sure on there. Someone else can describe how to properly roast the tires on a stick.
(B. Tire pressure
Bump up the rear tire pressure and lower the front pressure. Personally I run 42psi in the rear tires and with slicks I run 11-12psi, drag radials I'll run 13-14psi.
(C. Launching
Ah, the most difficult part. If you have a larger than mitsu turbo the boost will more than likely come on slow and when it comes on there's where the problems are. Play around with how high you come out. I personally came out at 3,200 - 3,300 RPMS (8 or 9psi of boost) and got right into it. I cut a 1.88 60'. With drag radials I couldn't get it to hook. I would have to get into the gas half throttle until I came near 4,700 RPMs, then I could mash it.
So when coming out, try getting into it at a throttle percentage and then procede to WOT. It will take practice, but holy hell hold on when you got it down.
Invest into heavy duty rear shocks. They're $45 at AutoZone. They will keep that car from squating and losing front end traction
Some people have had luck with a dual stage boost controller. Set it to a low boost setting and flipping a switch, activating a higher boost level. That again will take lots of practice, but works well once mastered.
(2. Staging
Assuming you have an auto, it'll be hard to build boost quick if you have a larger than a mitsu. turbo. Trying to build boost on pre-stage and roll into stage with boost wont work too well. When you are in the boost the master cylinder can't develop any more vaccum for the brakes. If you let off the brakes and try to get back into the brakes, the brakes aren't going to apply as hard, because you just let some vaccum out. Do your burnout quick and fly into staging. When you get into the staging and activate the last bulb, get that boost building. Use your tach as a reference where to come out at, it's bigger than the boost gauge and easier to see.
Again with the 5spd, never done it. Someone?
(3. Shifting
In any auto or stick you can feel where the car's power-band is. You will feel it stop pulling. Look at the tach where it stops pulling and shift there. On a stock 8v head it's usually only good for 5,500 RPMs. Since upgrading from the stock T3 Garrett to a T3/T04E with a super 50 wheel I noticed I had more top end power. This would be due to a higher flowing exhaust side.
In an auto, invest into a reverse manual valve body (RMVB) so you can shift it wherever you want. You also have the benefit to turn the line pressure up the grenade-mode so it barks 2nd gear every time.
In a stick, I would atleast reccommend a good clutch. Centerforce kicks a$$.
(4. Keeping it cold
Another VERY important part that I see a lot of TMer's forget. Let the damn car cool down!!! Put a towel and ice on top the intake. Spray the intercooler with a garden hose and put some ice on it, or even both. When coming down the return road pop the hood and put the heat on high and defrost. By the time you get to your pit area you can shut if off immediately. It's a good cool down from the return road.
When you get into your pit area open the hood and let it cool for atleast 10-15 minutes. Invest into a manual cooling fan switch. They're like $5 and it helps keep things cool at the track. I leave mine on from the time I arrive at the gate. The battery will be fine with its charge.
Also I recommend buying a 180 thermostat. Drill a very small hole at the top of the thermostate on the outer portion that sticks out. Install it so the hole points straight up.
That's it for now. Add on to this and lets help people get their TMs kicking butt.
Look over into the General area, I compiled a list of go-fast mods.
-Bryan
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Frank Katzenberger
Originally Posted by slasky
