2 piece intake heat shield

[amx364]

Pictures tell the story. Drilled intake between the fuel rail bolts, using a bolt and nut at that location. Replaced 2 fuel rail bolts with a stud from 525 transmission, so I can remove the fuel rail from the top still. Most important is to make a templete from paper to get everything to fit. Notched shield for intake bolt installation. Test fitting of turbo was decent clearance.
NOW will the insulation hold up to the temps from the turbo? Will find out later, the shield will work without the insulation if it does not. I have used a propane torch on the material, not on the edges.
Has anyone tried this before? If so what failed?

[chilort]

You sir, are a mind reader. I was thinking about doing something like this but carrying it up furhter. I am curious to see how this works out.

[MILKCARTON]

Thanx for posting the pictures, I started to do this in my Colt with homemade header and custom plenum intake, but lost interest, now you re-energized me, I thing I will go higher on the runners too though

[cordes]

That looks good. I've thought about doing a very thin piece of carbon fiber with a tiny spacer to keep it off the actual manifold.

I'm sure your setup will help to reduce temperature spikes. However, I've always wondered how quickly the heat from the turbo is transferred through the Al and into the air. If a guy knew that he could do a lot more with heat shield design in that spot. I think most of us will see a minimal spike in temps due to the short period of increased heat output.

[chilort]

I was thinking of taking it up quite a bit and maybe boxing it to the hood vent in my '86. I really didn't have the plan worked out in my head any further than that though. I couldn't get past how I was going to attach it all to the intake/head. This solves that little problemf or me.

[supercrackerbox]

I attempted something very similar on my Shelby Z years ago, even have the holes drilled inbetween the runners. Unfortunately I couldn't get everything to sufficiently clear between the turbo and the intake bolts, got frustrated and gave up.

For a slightly more expensive option, I've often wondered if ceramic coating would yield any positive results?

[turbovanman²]

I would be that idling, slow driving, IE stop and go and doing the burnout, the intake gets very heat soaked. I also wanted to do that back in the day but never got around to it.

I think those thermal barriers that reflect heat would be a good idea.

[amx364]

The car is being setup as a DD. In the past it has done laps at Texas World Speedway at Collage Station in 45 min groups. It has never been to a dragstrip, but was autocrossed since new for about 10 years. Might have to trim the shield for power steering pump clearance.

[4 l-bodies]

Did something very similar about ten years ago on my 86 GLHT. Held up perfect. Thermal insulation is a little more crunchy than is was when new, but works good. I also looped thermal-tec wrap between intake and exhaust runners. Drilled and tapped shallow screws into #1 & 4 intake runner to hold wrap in place.
Todd

[cordes]

Did something very similar about ten years ago on my 86 GLHT. Held up perfect. Thermal insulation is a little more crunchy than is was when new, but works good. I also looped thermal-tec wrap between intake and exhaust runners. Drilled and tapped shallow screws into #1 & 4 intake runner to hold wrap in place.
Todd

Did you do any testing to see how much of a difference it made?

[BIG PSI]

Great idea, thanks for posting.

[4 l-bodies]

Did you do any testing to see how much of a difference it made?

No datalogging if that is what you mean. This was ten years ago (lol)! Butt meter and dragstrip testing... It also helps not to the have exhaust manifold right under intake like the logs are. I believe that is part of the gain people see when switching to a TBI header.
Todd

[86Shelby]

I did that a few years back as well. The jobs you two showed pics of certainly are better than mine. I'm sure it helps with the radiant heat, but no datalogging on my end either.

[minigts]

Pictures tell the story. Drilled intake between the fuel rail bolts, using a bolt and nut at that location. Replaced 2 fuel rail bolts with a stud from 525 transmission, so I can remove the fuel rail from the top still. Most important is to make a templete from paper to get everything to fit. Notched shield for intake bolt installation. Test fitting of turbo was decent clearance.
NOW will the insulation hold up to the temps from the turbo? Will find out later, the shield will work without the insulation if it does not. I have used a propane torch on the material, not on the edges.
Has anyone tried this before? If so what failed?

The only improvement I would suggest would be to use a clip or pin of some sorts instead of bolts or nuts to hold it on. Possibly leave the bolts, drill a hole in the center of each bolt and use some kind of pin to keep it in place. That will allow for ease of removal when everything is installed, assuming you would need to. That and I would extend that shield up the runners and a straight edge right up the back side of the rear of the intake, if you get my meaning. Looks really good though. That's something I've always thought should be done with our cars. It won't correct the issue, but I would imagine the difference in temperatures would be significant if some of the heat was diverted.

[supercrackerbox]

A couple small slots in the shield with some clips similar to the ones on the old log TI heat shields, for instance?

[minigts]

A couple small slots in the shield with some clips similar to the ones on the old log TI heat shields, for instance?

Basically yes. For me, it its always about being able to work on the car with minimal effort.

[amx364]

Intake runners started curving about where I stopped. Three nuts from the bottom and shield is off, bolt only in center, studs on outers. Could have wrapped the upper runners, but BELIEVE lack of returns did not warrant doing. Remember heat shield only to lower turbo transfer heat and low cost in goal.

[turbovanman²]

No datalogging if that is what you mean. This was ten years ago (lol)! Butt meter and dragstrip testing... It also helps not to the have exhaust manifold right under intake like the logs are. I believe that is part of the gain people see when switching to a TBI header.
Todd

That's why I like TIII's, lol.

The only improvement I would suggest would be to use a clip or pin of some sorts instead of bolts or nuts to hold it on. Possibly leave the bolts, drill a hole in the center of each bolt and use some kind of pin to keep it in place. That will allow for ease of removal when everything is installed, assuming you would need to. That and I would extend that shield up the runners and a straight edge right up the back side of the rear of the intake, if you get my meaning. Looks really good though. That's something I've always thought should be done with our cars. It won't correct the issue, but I would imagine the difference in temperatures would be significant if some of the heat was diverted.

Yep, intakes on 8 valves get super hot due to the turbo and manifold.

[chilort]

Any one else try out anything like this. I'll probably get started on this project in the not too distant future.

[The Pope]

I did like Todd did his years ago, but I shaped it to the runners with the stickum crap that comes on the stuff. Then it cooked the shield into shape and I could remove it and re add it later. Doesn't do much. I then cleaned a mini van trans cooler well and used it for a fuel cooler. That was massive. I found that the air doesn't get cooled taveling in the runner as well as the air gets cooled by spraying a colder mix into the runner. How ever it hurts mileage and running in the winter, so I by pass it when it gets cold.