8 valve valve springs - need drop in springs for stock roller cam

[Under pressure]

I've been searching for a half an hour and still have yet to find a thread listing a good stock replacement spring !

without cutting the spring pocket or using different retainers.

I need a set ASAP and all i can find so far is the P3412068's and they are for .525" , wouldn't this be excessive for a stock roller ? .433" ?

[4 l-bodies]

You don't need to worry about excessive spring pressure very much with a roller camshaft. They are quite hard and wear is never an issue. As you said with .433 lift they will never see the full open pressure spec that is advertised. Small block Mopar v-8 springs work perfect for our application. I use comp cam springs # 942. They are superior to the MP spring, and half the cost or less. They are usually sold in sets of 16 obviously but you might find one of the on-line speed shops that might have a individual listing. 942-16 would be for a full set of 16. You could then sell the second half of the set on the forums. Make them cheap enough and someone will buy them (lol). I'm sure Howards, Crane, Lunati, Crower, etc. all have listings for a small block Chrysler application.
Forget the beehive stuff, way more expensive and unnecessary for your application and closed pressure is not correct without modifications.
Todd

[Under pressure]

Thanks Todd !, I'll have me a set of them tomorrow , and will have a set of 8 if anyone needs em'

[Force Fed Mopar]

Forget the beehive stuff, way more expensive and unnecessary for your application and closed pressure is not correct without modifications.
Todd

What exactly needs to be done to use the beehives?

[black86glhs]

Use the proper locks.

[Force Fed Mopar]

Use the proper locks.

I know that, I was referring to his comment on closed seat pressure not being right without mods. Wondering what mods he is talking about. I have a set of beehives waiting to go into a head

[TheCanadian007]

I know that, I was referring to his comment on closed seat pressure not being right without mods. Wondering what mods he is talking about. I have a set of beehives waiting to go into a head

I believe that referred only to the 3.3 V6 conical springs; they have to be shimmed to correct this. I feel that the comp springs are the better way to go

[4 l-bodies]

I know that, I was referring to his comment on closed seat pressure not being right without mods. Wondering what mods he is talking about. I have a set of beehives waiting to go into a head

Rob,
Comp cams recommends 1.770" spring height to get correct closed pressure for beehive #26995. You can use all the tricks, custom keepers, custom retainers, thinner spring seats shims, etc. to try to gain installed height and your still gonna come up short unless your sinking valves way too deep. IMO, start machining spring seat perch while raising roofs when you port and your playin with fire. Correct fix is using custom valves (with custom tip height) along with everything else mentioned but that is big bucks! Then you don't need to cut spring perches. I mentioned this in my reply to OP ONLY because it seemed he was looking for a easy drop in replacement. I'll bet precious few are even using custom valves with tips designed for increased valve tip height because why spend 2-3 times the $ for custom made valves when you have $15 valves as an option? I believe the SI exhaust valve also uses the multi-groove keeper which is incorrect keeper angle when using chevy retainers. Yet another reason to use custom made valves as you specify the style of keeper groove and its location.
As stated 3.3's have the opposite issue, too little closed pressure. then having to shim them up substantially. IMO, there are better spring choices than the 3.3 spring. IMO, if you got to have beehives, I agree the Comp beehive is a much better choice.
Not looking for a debate here, but since you asked, I wanted to reply.
Todd

[4 l-bodies]

Thanks Todd !, I'll have me a set of them tomorrow , and will have a set of 8 if anyone needs em'

If you don't have a buyer or can't find a buyer for the second half, I will purchase them from you. I'm always putting cylinder heads together.
LMK.
Todd

[Force Fed Mopar]

Rob,
Comp cams recommends 1.770" spring height to get correct closed pressure for beehive #26995. You can use all the tricks, custom keepers, custom retainers, thinner spring seats, etc. to try to gain installed height and your still gonna come up short unless your sinking valves way too deep. IMO, start machining spring seat perch while raising roofs when you port and your playin with fire. Correct fix is using custom valves (with custom tip height) along with everything else mentioned but that is big bucks! Then you don't need to cut spring perches. I mentioned this in my reply to OP ONLY because it seemed he was looking for a easy drop in replacement. I'll bet precious few are even using custom valves with tips designed for increased valve tip height because why spend 2-3 times the $ for custom made valves when you have $15 valves as an option? I believe the SI exhaust valve also uses the multi-groove keeper which is incorrect keeper angle when using checy retainers. Yet another reason to use custom made valves as you specify the style of keeper grrove and its location.
As stated 3.3's have the opposite issue, too little closed pressure. then having to shim them up substantially. IMO, there are better spring choices than the 3.3 spring. IMO, if you got to have beehives, I agree the Comp beehive is a much better choice.
Not looking for a debate here, but since you asked, I wanted to reply.
Todd

Yeah not looking for a debate either, just wanted to find out. I have a set of the Comp 995 beehives, and wanted to know what is needed to make them work correctly. So, looks like I need to plan on custom valves, or custom retainers. I believe someone PM'd me last year that they could get me custom Manley SS valves for $30 apiece, have to look through them.

[chilort]

Yeah not looking for a debate either, just wanted to find out. I have a set of the Comp 995 beehives, and wanted to know what is needed to make them work correctly. So, looks like I need to plan on custom valves, or custom retainers. I believe someone PM'd me last year that they could get me custom Manley SS valves for $30 apiece, have to look through them.

Tyler Van Lant mentioned nothing like custom valves for my head. Maybe I should give him a call and see what he is doing if he lets his secrets out.

[tryingbe]

I have a set of MP P4286813 springs for $40, if anybody is interested.

[4 l-bodies]

Yeah not looking for a debate either, just wanted to find out. I have a set of the Comp 995 beehives, and wanted to know what is needed to make them work correctly. So, looks like I need to plan on custom valves, or custom retainers. I believe someone PM'd me last year that they could get me custom Manley SS valves for $30 apiece, have to look through them.

Steve Menegon can probably set you up with Manley valves. He has a contact there. One thing to note with Manley valves is they always seem to be about .001-.0015 smaller on stem diameter than they should be. Makes exhaust a little too loose IMO. I made up a batch of slightly smaller ID Manganese bronze guides to correct this. These need to be honed to fit. Tyler and Steve have both bought these from me. I have also found Manley inatkes to outflow everything else I have tried.

[4 l-bodies]

Tyler Van Lant mentioned nothing like custom valves for my head. Maybe I should give him a call and see what he is doing if he lets his secrets out.

It should be no secret. Simply ask Tyler what he thinks are the best available valves for our 8V application. There are better valves available than MP or SI valves. He probably doesn't get many people to opt. for Manley valves because of the expense. Most TM owners are on too tight of budget for getting the best of everything. Add in port work, machine shop charges, seats, guides, valves, machined keepers, Ti retainers, beehive springs, billet cam, Good followers and lash adjusters and it gets out of most people's budget.
Todd

[Force Fed Mopar]

Steve Menegon can probably set you up with Manley valves. He has a contact there. One thing to note with Manley valves is they always seem to be about .001-.0015 smaller on stem diameter than they should be. Makes exhaust a little too loose IMO. I made up a batch of slightly smaller ID Manganese bronze guides to correct this. These need to be honed to fit. Tyler and Steve have both bought these from me. I have also found Manley inatkes to outflow everything else I have tried.

That's who it was. Good info on the stems, you have any of those guides left? If so PM me a price.

[RoadWarrior222]

Hah, got me thinking up crazy valve lengthening schemes now... like top and tail them and weld in a thickwall shaft that you can fill with sodium...

[Force Fed Mopar]

Hah, got me thinking up crazy valve lengthening schemes now... like top and tail them and weld in a thickwall shaft that you can fill with sodium...

[supercrackerbox]

I have a set of MP P4286813 springs for $40, if anybody is interested.

Not trying to poach, but if nobody else already in this thread wants these, I'll take them.

[RoadWarrior222]

Not really all that dumb, but I guess if you have a shop setup to pull it off successfully, you'd probably go another way, like turning them from billet.

What is kinda dumb though, is needing bigger springs, then having to go to heavier valves and probably heavier duty retainers to hold the stress, thus negating a portion of the benefit of having a bigger spring.

This is all reciprocating mass, think of it like rotating mass, small losses = big gains.

In other words, if you can lighten stuff, you won't need stronger springs, and you will lose less HP from parasitic drag/friction in the valvetrain.

[rosie]

Thanks Todd !, I'll have me a set of them tomorrow , and will have a set of 8 if anyone needs em'

PM me if you still have the set of 8 to sell. Cash in hand.