My v6 Drag Week build

[c2xejk]

I am looking at a variety of used turbos. Problem is for many of them I have to ask a bunch of questions to figure out exactly what it is... Another option I am considering is rebuilding a T04E 60 trim and put a stage 5 wheel on it. (bought it used and the seller told me it had a stage 3 turbine, it has a stage 1...)

On the holset is this the HX40W? It looks a little small flow wise (seems to favor pressure.)
http://www.squirrelpf.com/turbocalc/...1&map_sel0=125

[Sundance 6g72]

link no work for me. usually they dont work when they are flash based stuff like that (or similar)

i wouldnt buy a used cx turbo thats for sure. the price of the one you provided should have been new iiirc for those sizes that they offer.

[Ondonti]

The Holset compressor maps out there are all very suspect. I would worry only about the inducer diameter on the compressor wheel.

Hx40 has a larger turbine wheel then mine and with that larger housing, it will be laggy. Not saying it will be so laggy that you will hate it.
A good compressor wheel match is a 60mm compressor but that turbo was also available with 56mm I believe. My He341 has the newer smaller turbine wheel, small housing, and 56mm compressor. He351's are exactly the same with a 60mm compressor housing. 60mm hx40's could be hard to find but the good side is if you want to blow your budget, there are aftermarket t3 .70a/r housings available from bullseye.

I don't think the 60 trim fits the 3.0 very well, especially when you rev above 6000.

T66 turbo or a T61 (smaller) are good oldschool choices if you are trying to find deals. 60-1 or 62-1 are larger then 60 trims and also should fit better (more flow at the same pressure level). Quick google shows the T61 selling a lot for Supras with their own style inlet flange. Maybe look at a cheap brand name Borg Warner in the 60 mm or so size?
gt35 is okay but a fake gt35...I have no idea how it compares to other fake turbos. I wouldn't use a T70 if the turbo is actually a T70. That turbo has a stupid compressor map.

I like the idea of slowly upgrading. That will keep you from having to get it all nailed down right away, and it will let you keep being excited for the next thing.
If you are slowly upgrading, I would rather pick a turbo once, be super happy with it, run super low boost, and have it all work great. Build your manifold and downpipe and IC system and never worry about that part again. Then do your head magic later etc. Just build the stuff so it will handle your increased power goals. What is your turbo requirement when you want to get towards the 10.8? That is what I would think about. With good headwork I think you would get there on less then 30 pounds of boost and maybe even only 20 depending on how your setup works together and how large your turbo is. Megasquirt opens new doors that I have not spent much time investigating.
The 6262 that Kyle got for his car is a great turbo that would do everything you want and spool better then my 67mm P trim. Maybe you can get one for 900 bucks and never look back. If you are cool with a cheap turbo and trying a different setup in the future then thats all a budget and time thing.

Vigo will hopefully get to drive my He341 in March if you are waiting that long so he can give his opinion on the feel of a conservative HE341. I would rather have the 351 for racing or a known good legit Hx40 with 60mm compressor. Hx40 will make more power on less boost but I watched Bansheenut frag his when he had a boost leak. It ran very very well before that compared to He351 cars here. Much better on less boost. Turbine housings for the hx40 are all over the place so I can't give advice except that I know there are aftermarket options. Holsets of those generations are harder and harder to find so don't expect easy replacements or even finding the first one cheap. The secret has been out for awhile

http://www.maperformance.com/precisi...-pte-6262.html
Get to4S without ported shroud and .68 t4 turbine with V band. No extra charge for your choices. Worst thing about my holset was the downpipe and the fact that I couldn't locate the proper flange. Would have bought a Garret 55 or 58mm V band if I could do it over.

[Irocelectric93]

I like what Brent said about slowly upgrading. As I've gone along ive come to the realization that i am into my "build" like 3 years and have very little accomplished. Although i've sank alot of money into it...parts that arent on the car etc. I can say that the 35R would be a good choice but you could go the Precision route like brent stated and be just as happy and make just as much power (basically) on less money. Billet wheel FTW. I know your car will breath and rev so big is good as brent stated above. Go 6262 or 6762 most likely. What are your intake possibilites? Header design?

[RoadWarrior222]

I just end up chasing stupid little maintenance things down instead of progressing, or redoing crap I considered "done" because I can't find a part that wasn't made in China.

[shayne]

actually the 60 trim is a very good size for a 3l if you want to keep the power reasonable and purchase the correct turbine wheel and housing. this is why i bought the turbo that shadow had for sale. if you look at the compressor maps, this will show you that at approx 450bhp and 6800 rpm the compressor will be at ~65% efficiency, while the upward curve follows the surge line in parallel right at the left edge of the peak efficiency. which is important because you dont want to pump excessively hot air into the engine at that point in the rpm range. it would just be a matter of using the right turbine wheel and housing to suit your flow and rpm requirements and these are things that talking to a turbo manufacturer would solve to a close match to perfect.
this information has been confirmed by engineers i work with and another engineer who works at a company called adp distributors who sell garret and rotomaster turbo's.

[Ondonti]

I think Ed would be pushing it way too hard with how he runs his motor and how it will eventually flow. His 3L will just move too much air at low boost pressures.

I think some of this will depend where he revs. Another thing to think about is that if you do have a 60 trim with a t4 housing, you could always go with a hotter turbo in the future and still not have to ditch any exhaust parts. The t4 setup will help it make more power. The downside is that you can't run much more then 20 pounds of boost. 60 trim does flow a lot per pound of boost compared to the rest of it's family.

Try dropping the BSFC a bit to the higher 40's with our 3.0 to get more useful information. He might get lower with his better setup but no point choosing turbos off theoretical best case scenario.

Also, Franks calculator tends to act more like crank hp then wheel HP. Usually makes me feel quite good about myself

[Vigo]

Vigo will hopefully get to drive my He341 in March if you are waiting that long so he can give his opinion on the feel of a conservative HE341.

W00t!

I dont have anything to add except that that hx40 being advertised as 800hp-capable and then clearly saying 56mm inducer... seems pretty stupid.

I agree with what brent is saying about worrying primarily about inducer size on the compressor side as your first rule on whether to keep looking into a turbo, or rule it out immediately. My .02 is that a 56mm inducer is too small for your later goals. As brent also said, 67 is definitely bigger than you need. So you can see i have nothing new to add except to regurgitate the ~62 recommendation. lol

[Ondonti]

Or an older used 61mm setup with either stage 5 but preferably P trim. Not going to work as well but it will make power.

[c2xejk]

Start with the good news. I have started purchasing parts and tools for the Shadows rebuild. Found the OBX LSD for $375 shipped! Should be hear Friday. The Belleville washers and bolts should also arrive soon.

Now for the bad news. I rebuilt the turbo on my Spirit R/T last weekend. Took it for a test drive and things were going great. It had great power and was making boost. Then it struggled to idle and was running pig rich. I suspected one or more injectors were leaking, but they checked out.

Tonight I Did a compression test and all the cylinders were in the 160-170 range except #1 which was ZERO... I have to pull the head, but I am suspecting a burned valve... This is likely going to delay my digging into the Shadow for a week or more...

[Sundance 6g72]

.... my cyl is messed up to

welcome to the club!

[Mdoe8]

I've got a Turbonetics T66 with a .68 A/R that I can sell you for $550 shipped if you're interested.

Also have an ebay T61 that I'd sell for $300 shipped

[Sundance 6g72]

have you thought about a 180* or less t stat? the car got prett damn hot when we would hit the city driving after being in the sun for 3+ plus hours

[c2xejk]

Not sure how much of a difference it would have made during the trip from Topeka to Great Bend. Everybody was running hot that day. The reversed coolant fan doesn't help. The stat should have been open for a long time... Probably more helpful would be prevent air from leaking around the radiator...

That said, I may still throw a 180 stat in there...

[Sundance 6g72]

mine as well.. they are cheep as it gets and might buy you a little time.

[c2xejk]

Parts for the build are starting to arrive.

[Sundance 6g72]

woooo

[c2xejk]

Found out why I had zero compression on the Spirit's #1 cylinder... The intake seat is falling out...

[RoadWarrior222]

That's usually a sign of overheating... on other motors, quite a bit of carnage usually ensues.... maybe you just caught it in time.

[Ondonti]

better then a burned valve. I don't want to hear about our valves failing with turbo abuse :P

Also good that its on the cold intake side.