My v6 Drag Week build

[Spiritman]

"daily driver" is somewhat of a confused term these days.

[c2xejk]

For drag week it basically means "not faster than 10.80".

I remember being in the tech line last year when a 60's station wagon pulled out the other end of the tech building. BIG slicks, narrow front tires and engine cammed so big that it struggled to idle... That car was in "daily driver"...

[RoadWarrior222]

Yah, I think it means what "street" used to now.

Maybe they should check everyone's insurance policies, to see it's not historical or specialist insurance that limits usage ... if it says no driving to work, or parking in supermarket lots, then it ain't a DD.

[Sundance 6g72]

its not a DD if you have to go WOT to get anywhere without having issues :P

[c2xejk]

The manual steering rack has arrived. Once I fix the brakes on my truck, I will see about getting it installed.

After spending time considering running a supercharger, I have convinced myself to go turbo. Lots of good turbos at really good prices... Found a place down in Indianapolis that has what appears to be some good deals. I may use them simply because I can go down there and get a hands on look at the turbo before I plunk down the money.

Right now I need to figure out which turbo.

I am leaning toward a GT3582. Should work now and continue working well as I up the boost.

Others being considered are a T3/T4 hybrid. T04E 60 trim wheel would work. On the turbine side a stage 3 or 5 wheel.

I have also wondered about a full T4 turbo... The concern would be how laggy will the T4 turbine make the setup. I could look at using a small shot of nitrous to help the turbo spool at the track... Any idea how a T4 turbine compares to a T3 stage 3/5 turbine?

With an eye toward more boost, I am starting to research water/alcohol/other stuff injection... I have also wondered if I could use it in combination with 10:1 pistons now... (ie. run 10:1 pistons and modest boost on the street with 93 octane fuel. Then at the track inject water/alcohol/something else so I can run more boost...)

For the header, I am toying with building it a little differently. Lots of details to consider...

[Sundance 6g72]

words cannot explain the smile on my face right now

i say no to the spray and yes to the water injection. remember now we could only find 91 octane while driving from city to city most of the time. e85 seems scarce down there as well. i think all time water injection is the way to go. Does water injection literally mean water? water is easy to come by

i think a big turbo with low boost will make this sucker fly. I think for the sake of simplicity, you would want to flip flop the intakes and somehow make them fit? the dizzy will be deleted, correct? With the throttle bodies on the other side you could go crossover mounted with a FMIC rather than water to air *(unless you prefer water to air like your RT has)


youl need to look into fuel pump and injectors too! jeeze this thing is going to be crazy

clutch too

[c2xejk]

words cannot explain the smile on my face right now

i say no to the spray and yes to the water injection. remember now we could only find 91 octane while driving from city to city most of the time. e85 seems scarce down there as well. i think all time water injection is the way to go. Does water injection literally mean water? water is easy to come by

Water would need to be distilled water to avoid mineral residue in the engine.

Last night I was reading Graham's Forced induction book and he has several things he recommends instead of water. Most of which increase fuel octane... Figure if I stay out of the boost during the drives, I can conserve whatever I am injecting... (I think one of the options may be available in hardware stores...)

i think a big turbo with low boost will make this sucker fly. I think for the sake of simplicity, you would want to flip flop the intakes and somehow make them fit? the dizzy will be deleted, correct? With the throttle bodies on the other side you could go crossover mounted with a FMIC rather than water to air *(unless you prefer water to air like your RT has)

With this car, I am more willing to cut it up and delete things. On the Spirit I purposely kept the AC. Without AC, there is a lot more room...

Yes I plan on deleting the dizzy. I have a coil pack that I plan on using and need to get that going soon. Plug wires should arrive soon.

Flipping the plenums is a little iffier... I would need a much wider hood scoop (the engine is not centered in the engine bay and the front setup rubs as it is...) What I am planning is running the output side of the turbo compressor on the passenger side. Output of the FMIC (assuming that is the way I go) on the driver's side.

I don't think I have mentioned it yet, I plan on this being a rear mount setup. I will likely move the alternator down to where the PS pump normally resides...

I have also toyed with going back to the stock type plenum that I have with a 68mm TB... I could potentially go back the stock hood.

youl need to look into fuel pump and injectors too! jeeze this thing is going to be crazy

clutch too

For injectors I have a set of 42# (from a beefed up 3800SC) that I briefly ran on my Spirit. For the fuel pump, the only reason I might be concerned right now is that we put a generic pump in there during last years Drag Week.

Yeah, gotta figure what what clutch... I would like something that is not as much of an on/off switch that the puck clutches tend to be. Anybody have opinions on some of the Kevlar clutches...

A lot of work ahead of me...

[Sundance 6g72]

my TU 6puck is easy to drive once you get used to it. it almost feels stock imo. i think you would want a heavier PP than me though. mine is their stage two (they say it will do 350 tq reliably)

IDK how far you want to push this motor. my clutch has been holding great so far but im positive im not at 300whp yet.. and i deff havnt head my booost where i need it (3500-4500rpms) I tend to make 8psi and up after 4000rpms (where tq dips ) so take that as it is.

http://turbosunleashed.com/shop/clut...ries-c-97.html

i like the 6puck but if they promise that their kevlar option will hold the power, then mine as well.


i know you know what your doing, im just trying to lay it all out so i understand whats going on

coil packs, dizzy delete
bigger cam
big valve head
bigger headers (now going turbo headers)
turbo
PS pump relocation (i was thinking something like bobbies instead? but down by PS would be more hidden. youl love the manual rack once your used to it. im starting to like it with the stock rack, just not running the pully)
clutch
injectors
fuel pump (maybe go with the aeromotive pump? if they have one. all our vendors were nice to us. otherwise walbros are cheep and should hold you down


im not caught up yet, does your crank sensor function as it should now? i wish i could come down and help build this thing but the drive is for one, 4-6hours and i have school :P

[RoadWarrior222]

Water would need to be distilled water to avoid mineral residue in the engine.

Can get that at drug stores as well as car parts places here.

But most folks are using the blue washer fluid (Methanol/water)

[c2xejk]

Can get that at drug stores as well as car parts places here.

But most folks are using the blue washer fluid (Methanol/water)

blue washer fluid is a possibility. Graham recommends toluol, Avgas (and blends of it), methanol. Toluol (aka Toluene) apparently has very good resistance to detonation...

[Vigo]

I dont see why there's any question as to a full T4 or 10:1 + boost. Something like an o-trim/.68 t4 turbine isnt even that big. I dont think you'd have any trouble spooling it, or even NEEDING it to spool, considering you were launching at 1100 rpm and still able to do a half-decent ET (most people's run would be immediately ruined, like an extra second, with an 1100 rpm launch..).

Honestly, if you plan to shift at 6500 or higher i would skip a small t4 and go straight for something bigger. Youd have a hard time spooling anything but the biggest t4s LATER than 3000-4000 rpm so i dont think there's much to worry about.

As for 10:1 + boost.. been done. The pistons are proven to be strong.

Also, people around here tend not to do water injection, with the result that, imo, it's not well appreciated how great it can be.

So i say full t4, 10:1, and water injection!

[Sundance 6g72]

my thoughts exactly.. go big! your reving to 7200-7500 wity big valve heads

---------- Post added at 10:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:28 PM -------

[Ondonti]

Since you can rev, big turbo is fine.

[c2xejk]

As of right now, I am not going to go with a bigger valve head this year. I will likely be working on an evolving multi-year build.

This year I am going for Daily Driver and make the fast 32 shoot-out. My estimate is it will take a 12.2 to make the shoot-out. Without a roll-bar/cage I will be limited to 11.5. That correlates to 320-380 whp. I think that is doable with a re-ring (possibly 10:1 pistons) and a turbo (and suspension mods.)

In future years I will look at adding a roll-bar/cage and more engine mods so I can run close to the 10.8 limit of daily driver or go after Street or Super Street class.

These are some of the turbos I am considering. The first one is my current top choice, but I am open to considering others.
http://www.speedyracer.com/turbo/turbocharger/GT35-TURBO-GT3582-Turbo-Charger(500hp)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CXRacing-T4-...63313477105081

http://www.speedyracer.com/turbo/turbocharger/Turbocharger-T70-(4-Bolt)

http://www.speedyracer.com/turbo/tur...5-Turbocharger

http://www.speedyracer.com/turbo/tur...arger-T4-Flang

[shayne]

exersize extreme caution with buying overseas turbo's, if the real garret gt35r is about 1200 new and found for 700-900 used than there is something lost when it is duplicated overseas and sold for less than the costs of component castings pre machining, you get what you pay for. for every one story about a good chinese turbo i myself read probably 4-5 bad ones, you get what you pay for. im looking forward to seeing this car completed, hopefully i will have my own turbo 3l done soon.

[Sundance 6g72]

^ troof

although i recently read on DSM tuners that garret has been doing funky things with their turbos lately. i guess buying brand new legit ones isnt the way to go anymore either. something about them being built oversees in a sketchy place. but i cant find the link to back this info up


my cx racing turbo works great, dr shreds does also (although he did blow one of his up and wasnt clear as to how but did say it was his fault iirc)

brent also ran a ebay turbo (unsure of the brand) that worked well. p trim or something turbo iirc.

CX racing seems to be the better brand as far as cheep turbo stuff goes. some will argue that they are the same casting as the crappy stuff but im not convinced. i keep reading more and more success stories with them vs. the generic noname seller's on ebay. They have their own websight too.. not that that makes them good but they are more legit than the noname ebay people who you cant get in contact with and probably dont even run boosted cars them selves.

if going as cheep as cheep gets, go cx racing. otherwise i support the holset choice. they love lots of boost and seem to be very reliable. DSM guys love them, our 4cyl guys seem to love them, brent runs one, i see honda guys with them.

[c2xejk]

exersize extreme caution with buying overseas turbo's, if the real garret gt35r is about 1200 new and found for 700-900 used than there is something lost when it is duplicated overseas and sold for less than the costs of component castings pre machining, you get what you pay for. for every one story about a good chinese turbo i myself read probably 4-5 bad ones, you get what you pay for. im looking forward to seeing this car completed, hopefully i will have my own turbo 3l done soon.

Agreed, that is why I would like to see the turbo in person. I am also open to other turbo options (new and used).

How "big" of a turbo is a Holset HX40W?

[Mdoe8]

I believe cx racing is just another company that buys all of the same chinese parts.

If you're going for a cheaper turbo on a budget, Holset or Master Power are GREAT choices.

[Sundance 6g72]

^ i agree that they are not the optimal choice for someone who can afford something better. Im just saying im not afraid of picking them because from the stories im reading, they seem to be getting better. mine has not done any funny business to me (yet?)


but i support a push for holsets. they HAVE to be reliable to run on a cummins that should go for 300k miles

[Mdoe8]

I definitely agree that they've gotten better. I remember years ago some of the parts were held together by glue, so they would fall apart!

They seem to be getting more and more reliable though.