Shadow24, i bought a nick boers UDP so that i could start the SC build at a low-ish boost number. I think i measured both pulleys and did some kind of math out of corky bells SC book (which i had and then lost.. grr), but i cant remember the numbers right now. I just remember the result didnt cause me any concern. hah
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Ok, installed 3.2.1 firmware. The roads are too icy to really run it hard. One thing happened that I am not sure is related or not, the AFR read by the MS is stuck at 12.1 (still working normally on the dash gauge.)
you should have to re do the settings for the temp sensors and AFR sensor IIRC
Ok, found the setting for the AFR that fixed it. However, I think I screwed up the coolant temp sensor when I redid that... 87turbodance, do you remember what the values should be for the CTS?
We need a repository somewhere for that MS calibration info. Put mike to work :P
If i lose my info I won't remember what I set things up as.
As Vigo said, MS cars seem to be slower but for turbo applications I think its the way to go. I will stick with the OEM distributor sending information to MS for now on the low data rate wire. I think my Duster could qualify as used to be fast but is still running MS and I hope its not slower then stock but it could be.
All that extra complication doesn't help diagnosing problems. When the problems are gone then extra complication can be fun. Otherwise its one huge brain exercise.
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
the only person (to my knoledge ) to tune NA on a dyno was ed and he didnt go as in depth as a pro tuner would have and couldnt get a horsepower reading (or tq reading cant remember)
if you want to be faster than a factury tuned car then you need to take the time out and tune it PROPERLY.
It was torque that it was not reading. Torque is dependent on RPM, hp is read directly.
To tune best, you need a dyno that can hold a particular rpm/load for an extended period of time. Those types of dyno's are pricey... With them you can do sweeps things like spark advance to map the hook and holding at an single RPM/throttle factors out the transitional part of the fueling.
The OEM put a lot of time and effort into tuning the cars to get them just so. It is part of the reason that a piggy-back can be benifitial, you only mess with a narrow area of operation and leave the rest as the factory made it...
Last time I checked the formula for horsepower was the one that was dependent on torque and rpm!
But that is not how inertial dynos work. They have a set weight of drum and reverse calculate HP from rate of acceleration of the drum. It is impossible to plot torque for the engine unless you can perfectly correct for tire diameter and gearing, or have a functional spark pickup. Many dynos seem to have broken pickups. Dynojet drums also tend to weigh 1.5-2x what your car does so there are some differences in load vs real street driving.Originally Posted by Reaper1
Brake dynos like Ed is talking about can control the speed of the drum as constant and directly spit out torque numbers based upon how much effort the dyno puts into stopping the drum (which would be a known diameter and weight). The fanciest brake dynos can hold a perfect rpm while older ones have to be corrected constantly as you mess with fuel or timing (losing power would drop rpms and gaining power would increase rpms).
That dyno is also a real test for the engine with all that constant loading. Thats why the manufacturer uses mules :P
Last edited by Ondonti; 02-12-2012 at 03:56 PM.
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
I thought he was talking about somethings else...nevermind...
edit: not tryin to thread jack, just think its relevant to ed's N/A car. would be damn unique and i dont think its to far from his place.
hey ed, stumbled upon this
do we qualify as Mitsubishi powered cars? i dont see why not
http://www.facebook.com/events/147754038581732/
This might be a good "warm-up" for Drag Week...
yep, and alot of fast cars
anyways, back to CTS
what sensor do you use?
Chrysler sensor.
I ended up putting the GM data points in and it seems to work correctly. I vaguely remember people talking about putting a different resistor in the MS unit to use the Chrysler sensor... I am guessing that is what Ryan did when he built my unit...
The rules for 2012 have been released ( http://www.hotrod.com/dragweek/hrdp_..._registration/ ) and there are enough changes, that I may have to reconsider my plans...
That looks like a really cool event! Too bad I'm 1200 miles from the starting point. What class were you planning on running ed?
what rules changed that effect you ed? suspention im guessing?
The event is awesome! If you can find a way to go do! Last year I know of two people that were camping to keep the costs down.
I was going to run Modified normally-aspirated. They increased the rear suspension mod's for 'Modified' (now requires completely different suspension type...) and added 'Super Street Race' in just above 'Street Race'. The rule I was going to use to get into the old modified does not exist in the new Modified or the new 'Super Street'.
On an initial read through of the rules, I think I could get into super street by just running a non-stock spoiler... The questions are, would they really inforce that? Will Super street be sparsely populated... If a non-stock spoiler could 'force' me into super street, my guess is there could be a lot of people there...
I am working through my options. Some of the things being considered are:
- Run the car normally-aspirated in Daily Driver, Street or Super Streed.
- Find a way to do a conversion to independent rear suspension (or other radically different rear suspension.)
- Turbocharge the car and go for daily driver.
- Nitrous, would be easier to make some NA passes. (again, this would be in daily driver.)
That is exactly what I did. There are two resistors installed on the board with one for the CTS and IAT respectively. Standard resistor is 2.49k; I installed 10K resistors to run Chrysler sensors without changing any setting in the software. the two resistors and be changed to 2.49K 1% resistors if needed with a soldering iron and some side cutters.
Ryan
hehehehehehhee
---------- Post added at 07:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:41 PM ----------
just so everyone knows, reason for not wanting to be in Daily driver is that there are alot of 11 second cars in that class.. and most are hardly daily drivable :/
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
