Yup, what you discribe is how I had the tensioner set.Originally Posted by Vigo
I put a nut on the inside. The bolt pushes on the steel shell. There is an inverted piece inside the shell that locates the end of the t-rod that pushes on the carriage.So is the entire housing threaded for that bolt and the nut is just a jam nut? What is the set screw pushing on?
I wonder what a "smart" method would be to set the tension on the belt? T3's use some sort of gauge right?
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
I think the downsides of it being too tight are actually smaller than the downsides of it being too loose. I would just make it tighter than it was before and see what happens.
All of my motors with manual adjusters have made noise with the belt too tight so i was always able to recognize too tight before anything bad happened.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Correct, best bet is to set with a tensioner on those engines.
“If the people of the nation understood our banking and monetary system, I believe there would be a revolution before tomorrow morning.” -Henry Ford
Any manually tensioned belt, I set to have 90* of twist in the longest stretch, with medium force. Never has failed me yet.
In this case the 90 degree test was leaving the belt way too loose... 1.25" wide belt and fairly short distances between pulley's.
The Shadow's idle characteristics have been the source of frustration for me. I would often get oscillations that would result in the engine stalling. A few times it would fall flat on its face when putting the clutch in. Making the car very touchy and difficult to drive...
Last night I did some web searching on one of the cals that didn't seem to be behaving the way I thought it should... Found out that it didn't work the way I thought. Started reading on the rest of the idle cals and found several that I had set wrong... (Including what I thought was minimum # of steps to take at time which was really minimum number of steps the PID could be at...)
Fixed those cals then zeroed the Proportional part of the PID controller so I could tune the Integrator. Started much with a much higher value for the integrator. The engine rpm was oscillating, BUT it NEVER stalled! I stepped the integrator down which reduced the oscillation, but it never went completely away. I dialed in some Proportional then dialed in some Derivative which helped dampen the oscillation. End result is the engine now seems to idle much better. Idle is stable now.
On the drive in to work today the only stall was at throttle tip-in on a start on a mild grade... That led to one other issue the eventually corrected itself. I restarted the engine and immediately took off; the idle algorithm never had a chance to finish the transition to run (step down the idle RPM.) So at the next stop the engine idled high ~1700 RPM because the last known good stepper position was from the start.
The next stop was a long one so I had time to contemplate how to fix the high idle. And as I watched the idle stepper, it started stepping down, slowly at first, then much quicker. Guessing that I need to turn up the integrator some so that it will kick in sooner...
The final test of the morning was backing into a parking spot. In the past the car has been very prone to stalling and I have to work the throttle to keep it running. Today it worked perfectly... No stall, no extra throttle work.
More testing and tweaking left, but I am much happier now that the idle appears to be working better and I don't have to constantly fight to keep the engine from stalling. Amazing the difference reading the manual makes....
Well I think the manual still kinda sucks because if you are reading it for the first time you still have to go back and forth quite a few times to make sure you understand what they are talking about. Too much writing from people who already understand what each function does.
Mine is working great with basic PID and closed loop. With basic I increased the setting until it oscillated and then backed it off a bit. It was not working the first million times I messed with it. There is really not a step by step how to set things up manual. You have to figure out how many steps open and closed, etc etc. That is implied but not directly stated. I also have my dashpot adder and idle activation rpm/% maxed out and I think the car would be happier if those limits were expanded. Our 0-255 step range means a dashpot limit of 20 is a lot less effective than when used on a 0-100 type stepper.
I have crank to run taper to 2 seconds so after rpms really skyrocket on startup I try to get it into closed loop just after the 2 second taper time. If dashpot adder limits were extended I think idle control would be really amazing. I do get worried it will stall if closed loop doesn't activate as rpms drop on throttle close. I feel like I am cheating with idle as it is. My idle timing correction is basically maxed out aggressive so that is another thing that makes me feel like a cheater.
Can you explain your mild grade stall more thoroughly? Did you capture anything on datalog?
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
The mild grade stall is I think an issue with the fuel enrichment not being completely dialed in for off idle... Right now I have the VE table around idle bumped up to help out, until I can fix it the right way... The enrichment helps for normal street starts, but I was a little more aggressive with the throttle and clutch to avoid rolling back too much and put the engine in an area it doesn't usually run...
I have a issue right now that I believe is related to the pump shot. Basically it seems to go way lean when cold, when letting the clutch out in 1st gear to get going. When the clutch starts to grab and vacuum drops, the AFR's go 18+ and causes it to buck and sometimes stall out. Doesn't do it if I let the clutch out without touching the gas, only if I have the gas pedal depressed (IE, when it registers more than the minimum TPS volts). Adding MAP-based pump shot when cold seems to help, but now I have rich bog trying to accelerate when it's not stone cold (IE when it has sat for 3-4 hours at work then go to lunch).
I'm using MP Tune, but I'm sure there are similar tables in MS.
I am using the EAE so it is a little more complicated, though this may be a condition were I want add in some regular AE. Have to check the log file.
In other news, the crank case evac pump (smog pump for a 90's Ford 7.5L gasoline engine) seized. Luckily it was after I got home... Since I now know the concept works, I have ordered a rebuilt unit instead of the used ones I have been running...
How long did the pump last? Are you going to tear it down to see what kind of damage might have been done?
I put it on shortly after SDAC. During SDAC the prior one got oil soaked. I was a little concerned about this one when I got it because it turned stiffly...
I do plan on tearing it down to see if I can find a way to rebuild/repair it. I would like to have a spare on the shelf.
Over the weekend my son and I made a junk yard run. I was looking for Hemi engine for another project, that was long gone. However I did score this. The only piece I wasn't able to get was the differential, but I was able to find one on ebay.
I guess that axle was cut by the yard? Was it a long or short wheelbase van?
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Long wheel base van. I cut the axle because the hub nut would not come off. The end that goes through the PTU is what I wanted... This was a U-pull-it type yard...
Assuming it's setup like the other equal length axle setups, the rest of that cv axle is probably the same as the drivers side axle so putting it back together probably won't be hard at all. But, i'm guessing you'd be using car axle shafts to fit the track width of the shadow? What are your actual plans for these parts?
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Yes, the plan is for this to go into my '87 Shadow. I new the whole axle would be too long for a P-body. When the axle nut wouldn't budge I decided to cut my losses and get the important part, the inner housing...
As far as plan, I hope to put this in my Shadow so I can get very good 60' times. I would like the car to look pretty stock if you don't look underneath. Likely I will follow the basic path that Carlos laid out for his Omni...
Ed, Any chance you could provide a bit more detail on creating your manual tensioner? I like that idea over a $100 part replacement every time you take the darned thing off...
Here is a rough diagram of the internals...
Picture from before of the parts used... Other than some nuts and bolts, all parts are from a tensioner I took apart.
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