'89 Daytona - Minimal interior wiring, how?

[ShelGame]

Ok, so I want to make a 'racing' wire harness for my '89 Daytona. I'm taking out the blower unit this winter, radio's been gone for a long time, and I want to get rid of the keyed ignition switch in favor of toggles and a push button. Has anyone else ever done such a thing to the interior harnesses (keeping the stock under hood harnesses)? I will need to keep the headlights as they are technically required after dark - though mine have never worked.

My idea is to strip out the HVAC and radio wires, rear defroster, anything else I can get rid of, and make a panel for the radio spot that has the ignition/fan/waterpump toggles and the starter button. But, there's like a dozen wires coming off the stock ignition switch - which ones do I need?

I used to have the wiring layout drawings from the FSM for the Daytona wiring; both underhood and interior. But, Android 'ate' all the picture files in my phone and they're lost now. Can't seem to find them again. If anyone has the '89 Daytona dash wiring diagrams, I'd appreciate some sharing

[vipernbox]

There was a set of 89 FSM's for sale on here I saw not long ago.. (Pm me and remind to look.. I should have at least the 89 electrical book around here.)

and I should be able to help you soon..   in the next month or so i am going to be cutting down a harness for use in a sand rail.

[ShelGame]

I think I've found a "spare" interior harness to cut up (and leave the original, well original). As soon as I get it in my hot little hands, I'm going to start cutting it up...

[moparman76_69]

Give me a couple of days and I can dig up my 89 FSM and scan it.

[ShelGame]

Give me a couple of days and I can dig up my 89 FSM and scan it.

Don't worry about it - I bought a set from Ryan...

[22shelby]

you getting this done?? i just did all this to my omni... well i took it another step... how ever, really the only wires you need to and from the ign, is the 2x 12 B+ which i believe is pink and red... the 14DB which is you turn on power for the nessicery things to run, also a 14 BK/OR which powers all your interior stuff... IE radio, heater, etc...down on your brake light switch harness there is a 14YL wire, that is your starter relay wire (put 12V to it your starter kicks)... i would look into getting a switch panel , like that Auto-Rod i got, real simple design, all circut protected, and requires 1 12v B+ to run everything...

so you would run the 12V into the box, then just run your power supplys out from there... no "in, out, in, out, in, out" for each switch... plus on the auto rod, if you kill your "Ignition" switch, its kill all the power in the panel......

if i were building a panel... heres how id run it

12RD >- 12 DB (ignition power)

12PK >- 12BK/OR, 12BK, 12GY/BK (acc power)

B+12V -(o)- 12YL (starter) push button

12GR/BK >- GR/BK (fuel pump) this runs from the 60 pin bulkhead, this is not nessicery but good to have... you could wire it directly into the switch or realy the 12GR/BK using a switch....

[22shelby]

here Rob, heres a PDF of the Auto-Rod panel.... and it convieniently fits in the radio spot

http://www.autorod.net/products/downloadFile.php?OID=1485769&FILENAME=3700-pro stock over
head.pdf&FILETYPE=application%2Fpdf

full site
http://www.autorod.net/products/

[ShelGame]

That's basically what I want to do. Except that, I need to keep the headlights (and motors) operational. Technically, I'm supposed to have headlights if I ever race at night. It's only happened a couple of times and nobody has said anything about my non-functional headlights, but I need to get them working again. I was thinking I'd just keep the head light circuit and controller intact, and run everything else as you're suggesting. I also have to add a circuit for the electric waterpump and I want to run the fan on a switch instead of computer control.

I pulled the radio out, and made a switch panel from the faceplate of an old Chrysler radio so that it bolts in place in the dash. I need to move my boot switch up there, too. Need to find a USB male/female panel mount connector so I can mount the interface cable up there too and not have the wire loose in the car all the time.

So, I figure I'll have these switches (and fuses) on the panel - ignition, push start, water pump, fan, accy (gauges, etc.), boot. Fuel pump will still be run by the ASD, lights will run off the original circuit (but I'll move the fuse to the panel). And, I was thinking I'd keep the bulkhead connector so that it can be swapped back to stock if the need ever arises.

I'm going to hack up the spare interior harness when I get it. I don't have enough room in the garage to keep my car torn apart indefinitely. So, I'll probably mod the harness in the basement before I swap it into the car.

[22shelby]

there you go!! now that you have a set of FSM for that, it will be no problem... i did this on the omni, dash harness, w/o aset, and went off a few printouts for that car... lucky for me i have the 91 set so going 60 pin to the 40 pin wasnt tooooooo bad....

as you saw in my pics, all my major wiring stuff was moved inside the car, so i still have some wires to extend, but that was the least of my concerns.... im more worried about, "did i remove a wore or circut that going to be neede by the computer" but i keep reassuring myself, the the rear defroster, and wiper will have no advers effect whether they are present or not.... tedious process isnt it??

lol however, i must disclose, i dont have the car together yet so i cant say that my wiring works.... but i got a good hunch

[ShelGame]

Aight, I'm studying the diagrams for the Daytona trying to figure out (at least have a good idea) how to wire this thing up. There's one thing I can't seem to find - where the heck does the yellow starter relay wire go thru the dash? It's not in any bulkhead connector pinouts for the '88/89 Daytona; though it is for the Minivan; cav 31 - which is the park brake switch on the Daytona. That brings up another question - why does the park brake sw wire need to go thru the bulkhead?. Where does it go in the engine bay? I remember taking the entire engine bay harness out of this car, there wasn't anything to disconnect other than the bulkhead. So, the starter wire must be in there. Is it not actually yellow? Named something mysterious at the bulkhead to mask it's true identity?

[shelbymonster]

it goes to the trans for auto and asd relay ?

[ShelGame]

it goes to the trans for auto and asd relay ?

No, I know where it goes eventually - the starter relay. I can't seem to find where it goes thru the dash itself. It's not in the bulkhead connector. Maybe there's another connector on the G-Bodies that I forgot about? It's been like 6 years since I had the harness out. It wouldn't make sense really seeing as there are like 6-8 unused cavities on the 50-way bulkead connector. If it's another connector, I think I'm moving it to the bulkhead...

[shelbymonster]

iirc there is wiring not going tru the bulkhead , that goes to the steering and is on the engine side of the bulkhead

[22shelby]

wierd i know, but it comes from the brake light switch....it don't go thru the bulk head... 14 yellow should come out of the column and goes into the brake switch.... then goes thru the firewall gromet to the starter relay.... key word is "should"


one thinmg i had to keep telling myself, altho 99% of it does... but the bulk head does not pass thru into the engine bay, its the round gromet that does.... i kept confusing myself on that, had to remind myself this a bunch of times... i believe the P brake goes thru the bulkhead and thenm into the brake light switch....

like i said tho, if you find the 14YL that comes out of the brake switch and goes into the big gromit.... that what you tapinto for starter power...

i hope this provide a littl info of what your looking for...

[shelbymonster]

wierd i know, but it comes from the brake light switch....it don't go thru the bulk head... 14 yellow should come out of the column and goes into the brake switch.... then goes thru the firewall gromet to the starter relay.... key word is "should"


one thinmg i had to keep telling myself, altho 99% of it does... but the bulk head does not pass thru into the engine bay, its the round gromet that does.... i kept confusing myself on that, had to remind myself this a bunch of times... i believe the P brake goes thru the bulkhead and thenm into the brake light switch....

like i said tho, if you find the 14YL that comes out of the brake switch and goes into the big gromit.... that what you tapinto for starter power...

i hope this provide a littl info of what your looking for...

thats pretty much how my 89 tona wiring is ...

[ShelGame]

wierd i know, but it comes from the brake light switch....it don't go thru the bulk head... 14 yellow should come out of the column and goes into the brake switch.... then goes thru the firewall gromet to the starter relay.... key word is "should"


one thinmg i had to keep telling myself, altho 99% of it does... but the bulk head does not pass thru into the engine bay, its the round gromet that does.... i kept confusing myself on that, had to remind myself this a bunch of times... i believe the P brake goes thru the bulkhead and thenm into the brake light switch....

like i said tho, if you find the 14YL that comes out of the brake switch and goes into the big gromit.... that what you tapinto for starter power...

i hope this provide a littl info of what your looking for...

That's what I was thinking it must be - not in the bulkhead, but still going thru the grommet. I seem to recall having to unplug more than just the 50-way to get the engine bay harness out now. When I do the dash wiring, all those other wires are going to the bulkhead for simplicity.

[22shelby]

correct... the brake lights switch plug is on engine sdie of the harness...

[ShelGame]

correct... the brake lights switch plug is on engine sdie of the harness...

Not for long it isn't....

[ShelGame]

wierd i know, but it comes from the brake light switch....it don't go thru the bulk head... 14 yellow should come out of the column and goes into the brake switch.... then goes thru the firewall gromet to the starter relay.... key word is "should"


one thinmg i had to keep telling myself, altho 99% of it does... but the bulk head does not pass thru into the engine bay, its the round gromet that does.... i kept confusing myself on that, had to remind myself this a bunch of times... i believe the P brake goes thru the bulkhead and thenm into the brake light switch....

like i said tho, if you find the 14YL that comes out of the brake switch and goes into the big gromit.... that what you tapinto for starter power...

i hope this provide a littl info of what your looking for...

OK, so I got my wiring minimalized - and it doesn't start. Ignition comes on, fuel pump primes, etc. but, no crank. 14YL is switched to 12V, and it doesn't do anything. Either with the ignition on or off. Any ideas? I gotta get my voltmeter to it and see what's up at the starter relay...

[shelbymonster]

park-neutral switch ?