How much AN line to go from tank to fuel rail?

[cordes]

As the title states, I'm looking to go from the tank to the fuel rail with a pit stop for the filter in the stock location. This is for my shadow. How many ft. of line will I need?

[cordes]

ETA: Has anyone used these fittings before?

http://www.jegs.com/i/Earls/361/3601...d=#moreDetails

[zin]

Not sure on the length, but do yourself a favor and use Teflon hose and not the standard rubber, it will degrade into grainy bits over time and especially when gas with a high alky content is used, whereas the Teflon will last forever, and is typically a smaller OD, with the same size ID.

Also, while it is probably not needed, 6AN would be my choice, it's a little bigger than needed, but -5AN is a bastard size and wouldn't be much of an upgrade over stock, if at all... Taking a guess based on Nitrous Feed lines, I'd say 14ft would get the job done, but if in doubt, go with 20ft, better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it!

BTW, if you can't find the Teflon stuff, I can make it for you as we have the machines, etc. BUT, it would probably be easier to fit it if you get the re-usable Earl's ends, and hose. Do be sure to get the matching hose and fittings, the fittings are the same, but the "olive/ferrule" changes depending on the thickness/pressure rating of the hose's Teflon. One way won't go on, the other won't hold to the rated pressure.

Mike

[glhs727]

ETA: Has anyone used these fittings before?

http://www.jegs.com/i/Earls/361/3601...d=#moreDetails

yes, they work great, but I am more fond of the earls 165056erl that is 5/16 tube to -6an male then I use a -6an push lok fitting and push lok hose.

[cordes]

yes, they work great, but I am more fond of the earls 165056erl that is 5/16 tube to -6an male then I use a -6an push lok fitting and push lok hose.

Thanks I just checked my notes, and the fitting you mentioned is what I have on my Omni and 600 right now.

[cordes]

OK, I'm going to use the PTFE lined hose and the appropriate fittings. I've read about these guys in the past, and read some more positive posts on the web today so I'm ordering from them. http://www.anfittingsdirect.com/


I'll still need some of the hard line adapters to use since I'll need to finish this off with rubber ends. I'm probably going to be stuck using the Earl's #361-165056 piece at $10 a pop on jegs, but that's life when you don't want to bend tube anymore.

[GLHNSLHT2]

. I've read about these guys in the past, and read some more positive posts on the web today so I'm ordering from them. http://www.anfittingsdirect.com/

Same company as Frozenboost.com/siliconecouplers.com

I usually go here www.anplumbing.com and then go to my local earls store with the part #'s

[Pat]

yes, they work great, but I am more fond of the earls 165056erl that is 5/16 tube to -6an male then I use a -6an push lok fitting and push lok hose.

Aren't they only rated to 50 psi?

[glhs727]

the earl tube fitting? the push lok fittings? or the push lok hose? They say the earls are rated to 50 psi but I have used them on several of my cars up to 85 psi with no issues. I have only been using the earls fittings for a couple of years so no LONG term data. On the push lok, i've been using these for years with no issues up to 90 psi (I haven't gone higher). I think I saw a install video on the earls a while back and they tested the max pressure way higher than the 50 psi, but I can't say where i saw that.... I guess "use at your own risk" would be advised here...

[zin]

Yeah, we/they kind of de-rated them due to concerns of them being installed on pitted tube or some other issue that might induce a fuel leak... They are basically a compression fitting on one side with an AN on the other.

Mike

[cordes]

Aren't they only rated to 50 psi?

These days...

the earl tube fitting? the push lok fittings? or the push lok hose? They say the earls are rated to 50 psi but I have used them on several of my cars up to 85 psi with no issues. I have only been using the earls fittings for a couple of years so no LONG term data. On the push lok, i've been using these for years with no issues up to 90 psi (I haven't gone higher). I think I saw a install video on the earls a while back and they tested the max pressure way higher than the 50 psi, but I can't say where i saw that.... I guess "use at your own risk" would be advised here...

Bad Andy proofed one to 200+ PSI at Reeves place by accidentally installing the feed and return line on the wrong side of the reg if I'm not mistaken. That's good enough for me.

Yeah, we/they kind of de-rated them due to concerns of them being installed on pitted tube or some other issue that might induce a fuel leak... They are basically a compression fitting on one side with an AN on the other.

Mike

I was wondering what the deal was with that. IIRC when I purchased my first one they were rated for a few hundred PSI.

[badandy]

These days...



Bad Andy proofed one to 200+ PSI at Reeves place by accidentally installing the feed and return line on the wrong side of the reg if I'm not mistaken. That's good enough for me.



I was wondering what the deal was with that. IIRC when I purchased my first one they were rated for a few hundred PSI.

I was there! I saw that sh@t! Man, the things you learn drinking too much beer with Reeves lol.

I called a place in Britain several years back. They did a lot of tuning with Audi's and that's what they used for even their most extreme builds. They told me they ran up to 120 psi safely. Little did I know Reeves and I would get drunk and do the retard swap boogie on the lines and find out for ourselves.

The only downside was there was a couple times I had to go back and put a snug on the fitting as I recall it wept a bit at 1st.

[cordes]

I was there! I saw that sh@t! Man, the things you learn drinking too much beer with Reeves lol.

I called a place in Britain several years back. They did a lot of tuning with Audi's and that's what they used for even their most extreme builds. They told me they ran up to 120 psi safely. Little did I know Reeves and I would get drunk and do the retard swap boogie on the lines and find out for ourselves.

The only downside was there was a couple times I had to go back and put a snug on the fitting as I recall it wept a bit at 1st.

Great to see you post on here! Good to know about the weeping too. I haven't run into that yet, but I'll keep an eye out for it.

[BadAssPerformance]

I was there! I saw that sh@t! Man, the things you learn drinking too much beer with Reeves lol.

LOL, no truer words been said!

Nice to see ya around man

[badandy]

Hey guys...it's been awhile huh?

Cordes, send me a PM with everything you used once you get it all done...if you don't mind? I may have to go that route myself this go around...whenever this go around comes around lol.

J.T., is your car 100% billet aluminum yet?...lol....no? well get to work and stuff! Way to go on stepping up to the plate with SDAC...might have to ante up again whenever the CSX-T is done.

[J&H Ryan]

Cordes, can you keep some online notes or make a build thread for this? I'm going to want to do this for my Lebaron, but I'm a newb to all these fittings and lines and it would be awesome not to learn by buying what I think is right and making 30 trips back and forth to the store!

[Johnny]

I used these with the braided steel exterior hose, what a PAIN to cut and make clean enough to get right.
How do you do it?

[cordes]

Cordes, can you keep some online notes or make a build thread for this? I'm going to want to do this for my Lebaron, but I'm a newb to all these fittings and lines and it would be awesome not to learn by buying what I think is right and making 30 trips back and forth to the store!

I used these with the braided steel exterior hose, what a PAIN to cut and make clean enough to get right.
How do you do it?

I'm slowly putting together an article for upfront detailing the process. I will probably make a video and put it in the SDAC members only section before I put both in the KC too.

In the mean time there are several videos on youtube which detail the steps necessary. I'll warn you that they make it look about 1 million times easier than it is your first time out.

[BadAssPerformance]

Hey guys...it's been awhile huh?

J.T., is your car 100% billet aluminum yet?...lol....no? well get to work and stuff! Way to go on stepping up to the plate with SDAC...might have to ante up again whenever the CSX-T is done.

Yeah it has!

LOL... no more billet lately, but do need to make a new front motor mount

Thanks, we hope to do our best to bring SDAC into the future!

No go work on that CSX-T! I'd love to see it at SDAC-22 this year, but you GOTTA get it done for sure by the SDAC-23 88 CSX-T 25th anniversary

[zin]

I used these with the braided steel exterior hose, what a PAIN to cut and make clean enough to get right.
How do you do it?

In order of preference:

1. Hose cutting saw. Used to call them butter saws, cause they'd cut hose like butter! Supper clean and square ends! Uses a solid blade (meaning no teeth on the blade). Seems like it shouldn't work, but it works the best!

2. Beverly Shear. At least up to about -8, maybe -10, bigger and you start to get a bit of a fish-mouth to the end of the hose as it pinches before it cuts.

3. A really BIG and SHARP chisel and BFH (Big Freaking Hammer) over a block of wood. Same issue with sizes over about -10 as the shear and has the accompanying dangers of not hitting what you intend to!

4. The least desired and most likely to perforate your fingertips: Hack saw with tightly tapped hose at cut point. A more mechanized version of this method would be a cut-off wheel/chop saw. The big issue here is the hose end tends to fray and the accompaning blood letting that goes with that!

As an aside, Fragola Performance Systems sells (as does Summit, etc) something called "Kool Tools", they pretty much funnel those evil stainless wires into the socket so you don't have to bleed too much! Kind of expensive for a one-off, but if you are going to do much of this kind of work, they are worth their weight in gold!

Mike