problem with tach in the lebaron

[paduster]

It never worked from the time I got my car and i think there is an easy fix but not sure. Any ideas pics and things to do would be great

[MC#4]

I reflowed all the solder joints on the circuit board and it fixed my jumpy tach. If I remember correctly, you just pull the cluster out, flip it over and take a soldering iron and re melt the solder around all the pins. I don't have pics but you should be able to find more info if you need by searching this and the other site.

[Force Fed Mopar]

The circuit board slides out easily, if you want to do it on a bench.

[Ondonti]

Well you can swap out clusters and gauges easy but the wiring needs to be working. Its basically just a wire "out" from your ECU after it interprets the signal from the distributor. I think you would need some fancy stuff to measure anything in the wire so I would rather swap in a known good guage or just try another. The tach signals and distributor signals are all very weak so when you tee them off to other things they can "disappear." Accidentally teeing them off is the biggest no no.

[paduster]

Well re flowed the tach spots on the circuit board and still no tach. The wiring is still pretty much uncut except for the after market door look button thing that i removed and made like it wasn't there before when o had the dash out to do the heater core I saw no wires that was cut.

[Ondonti]

still leaves trying another tach, and proving a wiring problem will be a little more difficult then your current efforts. As long as the ecu is working properly I bet cutting the tach signal wire near the ecu and running a new wire would solve the issue IF your tach is good. Hopefully reflowing that board didnt ruin it. You can always get a new cluster for cheap.

[paduster]

Well went to the local pick a part and they wanted 45 for the cluster I didn't think it was going to be that much and didn't bring enough money.

But mean while I was there pocket parted some solid rockets and found dinamite with the cams still there in decent shape but missing the one valve cover

[Sundance 6g72]

you will want big cams for the solid rockers. Grab them cams though!

[paduster]

Well I am working on a set that would use the stock set of rockets with a slug pressed in with a threaded adjuster and was thinking those till I got them home and saw they was going to be real short of making it the hole way though so now looking at making them to just hope it won't be to much money

[Ondonti]

I was thinking you would just take out the tach from the cluster and see if its cheaper. Clusters are expensive these days. I would say its more likely that the wiring is bad so I am not to blame for you wasting your money :P

I found the solids have a serious problem with the cam that I used them with because the tip was falling off the valve and chipping/tearing itself up. I am looking towards a modified hydraulic. I just took apart a stock lifter today and am thinking it could be useful.

[paduster]

Well the machinist has both sets so he can find out what kinda metal to use for the stock set. Still looking at pressing a piece in and having that threaded

[Ondonti]

The oem mitsu threads are not long enough to go through our rocker and still have room for a lock nut I checked that before I bagged up all my solid rockers for probable forever storage.

I am thinking the easiest method would be shims (hole in middle) that you can put inside the OEM hydraulic lifter, and defeat the oil pumpup feature. Could probably get away with no hole in the middle of you remove part of the inner piston in the lifter.

[paduster]

I mainly t

[Sundance 6g72]

might be out of the quesiton but prosport sells 52mm tachs for like $40 +- a few