I'll let the picture speak for itself.
I'll know this summer if this all aluminum double pass radiator fixes my running hot with a/c on issue that I had with the TII radiator.
I'll let the picture speak for itself.
I'll know this summer if this all aluminum double pass radiator fixes my running hot with a/c on issue that I had with the TII radiator.
I'd lean towards it not. Here's what I see wrong. You don't have any ducting around it. The air that get's through the a/c condensor can just blow right around the rad. Then there's the holes around your i/c piping. You need to seal the airflow to the rad. You're missing the factory shield on the passenger side of the a/c condensor which helps, but more needs to be done. Also do you have all the splash shields in your fender wells? Those not only keep water out but help to block the high pressure air getting shoved off the tires out as well. You don't have a block off plate on the hood grill I'm assuming, that's a good thing to toss in the trash. Anyway that'll get you started. After that you can try an S10 airdam. These things keep a lot of air out from under the car and will help pull air through the grill by creating negative pressure under the hood. Which also helps with downforce on the front end at speed. http://www.pnw-sdac.org/gallery/v/Me...051S4.jpg.html
I have one from CFR performance that is 17-1/4" tall and 22" wide with the same inlets/outlets and filler setup as a stock T-II rad setup. HZ-50020 I think the # is. It's a really nice unit with 2 row and 1" tubes, all tig welded.
---------- Post added at 10:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:31 PM ----------
BTW... how come I don't see a filler neck on your rad? Is it a same side in/out setup and you had to install it upside down?
Originally Posted by 22mopar
Steve
'90 VNT competition package Shadow - T-III SC6262 conversion/restoration
'91 Spirit R/T - white
'91 Spirit R/T - white
'92 IROC R/T - red
'67 Barracuda 273 now, 440/727 awaits....
GLHNSLHT2,
Thanks for the advices. Splash shields are long gone before I got the car, and I couldn't find any replacement, unless you know where to find them.
I'd like to left everything as-is right now and see how well it works in the summer before adding more stuff to it. With the TII radiator and a super strong fan, idling temp was around 210F when the a/c was on, after the car was fully warmed up. I can only get it lower by turning off the a/c, though ambient temperature was between 110-118F here in the summer easily.
Directconnection
This is a double pass radiator. In/out let is on the same side. Though when I order it on the web, picture shows it has hose barbs, and filler neck. When I got it, it had no hose barbs, no filler neck. I had to buy the barbs, weld them on and add the filler neck as you see. The accessories of making that radiator work cost more than the radiator itself!!
Here's what a double pass radiator looks like.
Yea you need those shields. Also with the the way the radiator is right now when the fan kicks on it's going to pull in hot underhood air instead of pulling cool air through the a/c core, and then through the radiator. Right now you're just recycling hot air over and over again.
Do you know where I can buy those shields?
Dealer? I usually find nice ones at the j-yard.
There are no Omni in junkyard here.
I'll tell you that you could do a ton more for that rad if you blocked off the whole back side of it with a shroud. I made a shroud for my Omni and it pulls enough air through it to idle all day in near 100* heat with the nappy TII rad I have in there and absolutely no ducting.
But do you have working a/c?
I don't. I still recognized temps that would be as low as I set the fan rather than 195-205 best case scenario.
I never have a over heat problem with the TII radiator, without shroud and a/c not on.
It's when adding a/c to the mix then it starts to over heats.
So what? your fan runs all the time and you don't even have a/c? Tryingbe has a shroud around his fan so I don't get what you're saying. My fan barely runs, only when I've stopped and am sitting there idling. If I'm over 30MPH the fan never comes on unless the a/c compressor kicks on then the fan automatically comes on.
No. I'm stating that my fan couldn't get the temps down very low without a good shroud. He's got a shroud, but it looks to me as though it leaves several inches of the rad exposed. There's a reason the factory shrouds covered the entire area.
I can agree with that.
There were some air gaps between the radiator and the frame on my van that would allow ram air to go around the radiator rather than go through the radiator. I bought some foam that you would use to seal a home a/c window unit in a window to fill those gaps. Depending how things work out for Harry this summer, he can always come by my shop and we can brainstorm.
The last time his car was at my shop, I didn't focus on how well the radiator fan was shrouded around the radiator. He turned me onto the two speed Volvo fan and I had to build a little onto the fan shroud after I cut it to fit the T-II radiator I bought from TU for my Dad's T&C wagon.
A.J.
Do you have the lower air dam installed under the rad? I had overheating issues in my R/T only with the a/c on without it.
106F outside this afternoon.
A/C temp was 60F while moving, 70F while idling.
Engine temp held steady at 210F, it peaked at 212 for 20 second right after getting off the freeway, temperature was around 202-206F on the street.
Success!
do they happen to make a shorter radiator? i really need one that fits under the upper rad cradle for my 16 valve setup
Measure out what you need and use the chart.
http://www.griffinrad.com/race_radiators.cfm
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