thanks! large spline 568 for the trans, open diff for now (until i get some $$ then prob quaife), auto 413 axles
thanks! large spline 568 for the trans, open diff for now (until i get some $$ then prob quaife), auto 413 axles
Engine/trans are in. sorry for the dark crappy cell pic
Looking good, I can't believe how clean that car is.
ms3x showed up in the mail today...no where near ready to put it in but i'm excited non the less.
in other news, got the shifter possibly figured out. using a shadow shifter and a shadow cable for the drivers side.
got my cross over cable from this beauty!
Last edited by AzShadow; 11-30-2012 at 12:17 AM. Reason: added pic
got the cables and shifter sorta ran today....it seems like the end of the selector cable is too long...the adjustment is all the way to the end and it doesn't feel very smooth
over the weekend i took the car to a friend to get my cracked transmission mount weld fixed, bobble strut mount welded to the k-frame, and the water to air intercooler mounted and charge pipes ran. i will post pictures once its done. i also got my switch panel for all the electronics.....man i am seriously dreading wiring this car and getting the megasquirt hooked up
oh and btw i figured out my selector cable issue. it turned out i had the bracket on the transmission mounted upside down...durrr. rowing thru the gears seems pretty smooth and feels nice with the polybushings from johnny
After everything is all done/installed make sure you adjust the crossover cable. The procedure is to put that locking pin into the housing in the 'down' position and loosen the bolt on the d-side shifter cable where its slotted and hold the shifter in central/neutral plane and retighten that clamp bolt.
That is one clean little omni!
~Tyler Larsen~Salt Lake City~
-92 Daytona R/T (T3/T4 Hybrid, Quaife, etc...)
-86 Jeep Grand Wagoneer Woody (winter beast)
-01 Audi TT Quattro (daily driver)
-71 Plymouth Cuda 440-6pk tribute
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took some bits out of the Shadow. Poor Shadow...
got the car back from my buddy.
water to air intercooler mounted.
upper mount
lower mount
Reinforced tranny mount (i had a cracked weld and he went nuts)
also reinforced motor mount while he was in there
bobble strut mount welded
got the braille mounted as well. pretty neat little bracket they make
now to run coolant lines and wire...ugh
Last edited by AzShadow; 04-19-2013 at 12:58 AM.
Russell ProClassic II hose made up for turbo coolant feed and #4 coolant mod/heater bypass
Installed
Relay board and fuse panel mounted under the dash
Switch panel mounted in former radio slot
block off plate/pass thru for main engine harness. drilling those holes really reminded me how thin these cars are. so much flex
also, added a master switch on the dash.
Last edited by AzShadow; 05-12-2013 at 04:28 PM.
Got some more wiring done and picked up these guys...
i think im going to have to ditch my valve cover tho, i put a hole in it for the breather and now i dont have enough space to mount the coils. I may just go with a TBI valve cover although they are pretty ugly.
i need a new gas tank/pickup for a turbo/tbi car. i found 2 in the junk yard today but both gas tanks were missing! apparently the yard pulls them and crushes them on all cars
anyways here is a few pics i took in the yard. i also found a glh that was carbd. not much left of it.
which also brings me to my next point. should i grab the five lug stuff off this car??? i was going to use my shadow stuff but i dont think it will work?
some updates
hall effect sensor mounted.
Cast TBI valve cover cleaned up
Electronic boost controller mounted
LS coil harness
The new Walbro going in the new pick up assy
For reference
The girls together
36-1 wheel adapter
On the car. Note the hall effect sensor in the upper right area. (and now that i look at it i forgot a washer on the little bolt lol)
BOV bung welded
Also, I am stiiiiilllll wiring the car.... It is taking me much longer than originally estimated.
time for some updates.
turbo support bracket. mounts to factory location on turbo then attached to bobble strut bracket. i could not use the factory twist bracket due to the custom log manifold/header.(also, dont mind the indentation made in the oil return line from a slightly different configuration i was trying when i had it mount back to the block) made from mcmaster carr hex rod (LH threads one end, RH threads opposite) and those neat swivels.
new fuel tank and sending unit. flared ends of the fittings cut off and russell -6 adapters added for feed and return.
fuel tank is in. for some reason this really fought me....
hose adapters to -6 nylon braided summit hose rated for e85 use. (complete fuel system is ran, just not photographed)
ls2 truck coils mounted on stock coil bracket on TBI valve cover. factory gm harness as well that i dressed up a little bit with an overbraid so you dont see the factory tape job. Factory ls2 truck wires as well. i either needed a very very very very (almost non existent wire) or one long enough that i could kinda loop around as shown. Also pictured is the aerometer fpr.
sweet k wagon in the yard for fun.
and here is where i sit today....
currently i am getting a crank/no start condition.tach signal is synced and output test of coils and injectors seems to be fine. spark tables are put together from the factory table found in mptune and other settings are picked and pulled from various locations. At this point i need to look at somebodies msq file with a similar setup....the best i can get it to do is cough and crank and eventually get a backfire out of the exhaust so something is not right. After cranking it for a while i pulled the injector fuse to clear it out and i had the most luck with it TRYING to come to life so im thinking i have too much fuel????
btw tooth #1 on the 36-1 wheel is set 50 deg BTDC. i need to triple check this
oh i also filled the transmission up with redline MTL. Thought i was good until i noticed a small leak from i believe the driver-side axle output..
How did you set your trigger wheel up? You have to set the tooth offset based on where you set the wheel in relation to the sensor. If you did it like the instructions your offset should be 80*.
i reset tooth #1 to 80* and adjusted my VE and spark tables to match the known working ones from you (big thanks again for helping me out)Originally Posted by wallace
this however was to no avail.
i then had a moment in the way i wired my coils....i wired coil A to cyl 1, b-2, c-3 and, d-4. well this is not correct. It should be a-1, b-3, c-4, d-2.
after i did this i was able to get it to start up for like 4 seconds.
from here it was hit or miss if it would actually start and if it did it would only run for a few seconds.
i have a lot more work to do but this is at least a small victory.
Great build, Keep us posted on the mega squirt issues.
Awesome glad you got it sorted out.
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