Adam, just as long as you get it to cecil for the invasion, I would be totally stoked if Carroll gets his omni there too with me and my car!
Adam, just as long as you get it to cecil for the invasion, I would be totally stoked if Carroll gets his omni there too with me and my car!
Turbo Joe
----------------------- 87 CSX #175 TIII powered, MegaSquirt3 Pro Ultimate, GTX3076R, Turbo Joe header, Lengel intake, Menegon ported head, the list goes on
Hmm, Auto trans. is not the performance panacea most believe it to be. I ran a manual for eight years before I switched, and in many ways regretted the change. I found the auto was harder to consistently stage than the manual, gave up MPH, and is just not as much fun to drive. Automatic trans. net ET is very dependent on torque converter characteristics and to get a really good one is not cheap, and is trial and error till you get that right, unless you are real lucky.
I still believe some or maybe most of the breakage you manual trans guys are having could be lessoned to a large degree by changing your launch technique. I always ran through the clutch for the first ten feet or so, and I never broke anything, not even axles; maybe just lucky, I only wore out syncros. the available clutches have come a long way in the last ten years so I know they hold a lot of power.
I have been contemplating switching back to manual, just for the fun of it. I think my car would be just as fast.............I think
best 1/8 ET-6.16 sec. best 1/8 speed-119.70 Best 1/4 MPH 145.5, Best 1/4 ET 9.65 sec. 8 valve NO NITROUS!!
Carbon/Carbon (gets grabbier with heat/slipping), staging brake, clutch damper (screen door etc), very light flywheel (which I hate Fidanza wise), or just a careful foot with no care given to clutch wear (which a lot of us don't have). Seems like you were almost trying to break the next component to prove your axles would survive. Guess you won!
Watch every shop built DSM/Evo vs their customers. Even easing into the clutch they still pull very good 60's and don't break like their customers.
BTW, with the terrible engagement of the Fidaza clutch (that seems to promote clutch slip too) I don't think my clutch ever grabbed as hard as on an OEM plate. OEM plate my car wouldn't even move.
I really don't think the big damage was done on 3rd gear, but that did it in.
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
I'm with Warren and Brent on launch technique or a mechanical way to assist a softer launch. I started pulling my knee to my chest b/c that takes longer than just using your ankle or side stepping. On the next build I'll be working with a hydraulic clutch so I'll have some options to fool with. Short of that your only choice really is to convert to a T850 and look at some of the stronger input shafts b/c we all no auto is never an option.
I saw a conversation on the Megasquirt facebook page about using the magnus launch control throwout solenoid along with Megasquirt, had to be MS3 to use the speed sensor to avoid activating after the launch. A positive stop would also help delete some of the dead space. Pretty sure I have seen people converting things to hydraulic without throwing in the whole transmission.
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
Robert Mclellan
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wambNdfnu5M
10.04 @ 143.28mph (144.82 highest mph)
Worlds fastest 8v MTX Shelby Charger
Manitoba's Fastest 4cyl!
8 valve, No Nitrous!
New clutch combo is the SH!T!
Mike Marra
1986 Plymouth Horizon GLMF "The Contraption" < entertaining sponsorship offers
Project Log:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?69708-The-Contraption-2013-14&highlight=
You of all people I expect to be better at reading the whole post. Now as far as adding mechanical control, I'm an engineer so I like doing those things and tinkering with them. I also don't get to the track enough to become consistent so I am looking at ways to make my car quicker and more consistent at the track on any day in any weather with any track prep. Don't forget I'm one of the ones that got into the 10s on stock axles only breaking one along the way and it wasn't even at the splines.
You don't need to go to a full hydraulic TOB to control the release. Just use a master and slave cylinder hooked to the arm. I know I've seen that done before.
Yeah yeah, I guess I wasn't getting why You of all people (Knowing the good success you've had) would go to all that trouble when you are Already a Good driver and can only improve with more seat time and understanding of what's needed.
Plus I don't like to over-complicate things, and I see people run into more trouble doing that, then just keeping it simple.
But hey, as long as you're having fun doing it................
Carry on!
Robert Mclellan
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wambNdfnu5M
10.04 @ 143.28mph (144.82 highest mph)
Worlds fastest 8v MTX Shelby Charger
Manitoba's Fastest 4cyl!
8 valve, No Nitrous!
New clutch combo is the SH!T!
Simple, simply changing axles. Lengel is in the upper tier change input shafts crowd now though Not really worth it over a mistake that could happen every time.
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
Just got my solid aluminum engine mount finished. Just have to drill the two holes that mount it to the frame rail. Next I'll be doing the trany mount.
This car is work of art! Nice work Adam.
hope you don't have any fillings, cause they'll rattle out now.
JT
SDAC Director
SDAC-Chicago President
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87 Shelby Z - 10.50@141.66mph
87 CSX #751 Clone - 12.88@102.88mph
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I would assume less movement to help resolve the axle issues.