it sort of makes sense. stock these cars put down 170tq to the crank, with 8psi around 2500rpms or earlier you nearly double that. with the same oil pressure.
i know his NA shadow has 250k.. i dont think the RT had that much though.
it sort of makes sense. stock these cars put down 170tq to the crank, with 8psi around 2500rpms or earlier you nearly double that. with the same oil pressure.
i know his NA shadow has 250k.. i dont think the RT had that much though.
The turbo setup has less miles on it. Not sure how many, but ~120K at the time.
I was getting 8-9psi boost by 1800 RPM!
8 psi at 2500? That's not right. Spec is 35-100 psi at 3000 rpm. I'd say if you have 8 psi at 2500 rpm, something is wrong and no wonder it blew up.Originally Posted by Sundance 6g72
Edit, talking boost or oil pressure, lol.
We also can make power and torque down low and don't blow stuff,
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS!12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
He's talking about the boost, Simon, not the oil pressure... lol
Yeah, wasn't sure at first, lol.
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS!
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
like ed said, we are talking over 300tq at less than 2000rpms.
i guess my main reason for bringing that up was to show that he only spun a bearing due to ill choices for this turbo and that the 3.0 dosnt normal spin a bearing just because its boosted.
Sounds like a wild guess to me, honestly. Did daytonastein spin a bearing? I bet that thing spooled at 1100 rpm.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Yeah thats the car we were talkin about
Spun two rod bearings. One was repairable, the other one I had to replace the rod. Boost came on VERY quickly. The new setup has a lot more lag (full boost comes on at about 3.5K.)
Oh, i thought you were talking about your spirit.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
nono we are talking about the spirit. the spirit RT = daytonastein but when it spun the bearings it was in the spirit
After the bearings spun I rebuilt the motor and put it into the Spirit...
oo well idk what im talking about
Ive got it straight now, thanks.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
I only noticed a difference in exhaust when I was auto. It lost a little grunt at just above 1000 rpms. Manual trans you just can't tell. That was 3" or cut off etc. I don't believe that statement about Josh cutting off his exhaust. He did that it was because of me and when I did it I went from 82mph to 88mph along with porting the plenum, 58mm tb, and new wires. There are a lot of variables that get in the way of interpreting any results as actual facts. change more then one thing and its hard to see what made a difference, but often one mod needs another mod to truely be potent. Built a nasty motor with stock exhaust and you will see my point.
Mike built a custom manifold that had primaries that were too large and it lost no torque compared to an OEM log on the DYNO (not the guestimator). That was with a big exhaust. Cams are so tiny that exhaust changes do not change anything noticeable in the power band you actually drive at. Even though I like to lug at 1000 rpms its not supposed to be good thanks to oil pressure being low at 1000 rpms....Still plenty of git.
I ran a 3" on my 3.0 for 8 years and almost all of that time on my daily was without a turbo. I always lug the motor around and at any sort of "racing" rpm, I want every bit of huge exhaust I can get since I was always running a tiny oem cam. 2.2/2.5 guys have also often commented that the noise from a 2.5" seems to be harsher or more droning then a 3" (when using fairly standard parts between the same cars).
My Duster is crazy insane loud right now with catless 3" and oldschool ultraflow that was on my Spirit until a few years ago. Almost seems like the exhaust note is changed by the bulk of the chassis, that or the MS just runs harsher.
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
stock pipe with no muffler (still with cat) drones at 35mph in 5th an insane amount. my 3inch sounds nice at the same speed in 5th.. only at 70mph does it give me an annoying drone.. hit 82mph ish and it goes away. you guys might no what i mean, when you go wide open from a dig.. there is that slight change in exhaust note as you get up there in the Rs.. not just louder but it completely changes. maybe its just me.
i wish i was awesome and had the time to take all of my mods and remove/ add them to see what works and what needs what to work (like 3inch exhaust and stock intake or both and vice versa)
Yes, I think the drone is RPM based. 2000-2600 and it sucks. The higher you go, the smoother it gets. 2800 an its quiet but you are going to jail soon. I believe 3000 rpms is like a whisper.
Having a turbo kills more sound and drone then a CAT. My 3.0T daily does not drone like it always did before. You don't have to yell to talk or crank the tunes extra loud. Back seat + the sound deadening behind on an AA body also kills a lot of drone. Try removing it and doing the same long drive.
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
It sounds like the exhaust system could use a resonator instead of a muffler.
I ordered almost everything I'll need for my headers and exhaust today. 1.5" primaries, Then 2 1/8" into a 3" collector and then 3" all the way back. Materials cost more than I thought but I guess I don't have much of a choice since we have no aftermarket support. Oh well at least Ill have what I want.
is it all stainless steel? nothing like the sexi look of tig weld on SS headers.
exactly. thats all my magnaflow is anyways and i have it sitting in place of the cat. thinking of a second one in the muffler location. hard to shell out $100 for a second straight muffler. the new dyno max ones look nice though (stay closed and then wide open when you go.. well wide open)
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