3.0 Build Project: "Green Machine"

[MC#4]

well guys, had my machinist whip me up a sample. I think it has SERIOUS potential for small base circle cams. I'm throwing a teaser pic up just because. I had such big plans for this but life threw me a curveball and this is really up in the air for now. Notes. yes the insert is threaded on the inside but its pressed into the rocker. I just used the nut and screw from the 4g15 rockers. Haven't had time to test fit anything though.

[Force Fed Mopar]

Looks like it will rub the inside of the valve cover, but hard to tell in the pic.

[MC#4]

Looks like it will rub the inside of the valve cover, but hard to tell in the pic.

I think you're looking at the pic wrong. The nut is on the under side of the rocker.

[Force Fed Mopar]

Oh... in that case, I think it sticks out too far. Don't think there is that much room between the rocker and the valve retainer. Again, hard to say from the pic.

[MC#4]

Oh... in that case, I think it sticks out too far. Don't think there is that much room between the rocker and the valve retainer. Again, hard to say from the pic.

One thing to remember is with the small base circle cams, the distance between the rocker tip and the valve tip is increased. There is a good chance the nut will have to be shaved down but preliminary measurements are promising.

[bakes]

well guys, had my machinist whip me up a sample. I think it has SERIOUS potential for small base circle cams. I'm throwing a teaser pic up just because. I had such big plans for this but life threw me a curveball and this is really up in the air for now. Notes. yes the insert is threaded on the inside but its pressed into the rocker. I just used the nut and screw from the 4g15 rockers. Haven't had time to test fit anything though.

like button like button where is the like button

[bakes]

I do see a draw back as to how to adjust the adjuster
maybe drill the top of the rocker end to allow a blade screw driver to slip through

[MC#4]

I do see a draw back as to how to adjust the adjuster
maybe drill the top of the rocker end to allow a blade screw driver to slip through

Yeah that's the drawback. I like the idea of drilling for screwdriver access. The rocker does have pressurized oil in that section though and I'm not sure if the insert blocks that port off. If the nut gets shaved you could probably still turn the screw with needlenose pliers. Not ideal but for me this is gonna be a motor that doesn't see a lot of miles and won't need the valves adjusted very often at all.

[Vigo]

What would be nice would be if someone measured the total height between the valve stem and the valve cover, and then measured the thickness of the aluminum part of the stock rocker so we would know what kind of margins are in play here.

[MC#4]

What would be nice would be if someone measured the total height between the valve stem and the valve cover, and then measured the thickness of the aluminum part of the stock rocker so we would know what kind of margins are in play here.

I was gonna put clay on the top of the rocker and set it all up to see what clearances look like, maybe one of these days. I'm not sure how accurate I could measure since there are so many angles in play.

[Vigo]

I guess the easiest thing to do would be to have a spare valve cover and cut out a small section above a rocker (just pick the spot that looks like the least clearance) and then do some measurements from the outside of the valve cover to the rocker or valve stem and just subtract the thickness of the piece you cut out.

[Ondonti]

That would probably work on my cam, I don't know about the adjustment though. I think I would prefer something I can adjust with ease. I don't think its a problem to just block off the oil completely. The material on top is probably too thin to thread anything into as a plug. I like this design. Sounds like you are in trouble with life though
ls1 locks and retainers are a bit funny since our lifter will have to sit down into the valve stem "pocket" formed by our high valve lock groove. Wondering how that stem will contact the valve.

[Force Fed Mopar]

I blocked the passage off with my inserts.

[MC#4]

I'm baaaack lol. I know some of you guys are on facebook, but I don't really know a lot of names. feel free to add me. David Moroskie jr. Hopefully will be working on the 3.0 again shortly.

[Force Fed Mopar]

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...t=#post1008622

[MC#4]

I don't hate that.... really wish I could get back into my project. Slowly working towards it. Shot myself in the foot (figuratively) about 3 months ago, still digging out of that one. :/

[MC#4]

Ok the motor/trans are back in the car but I got a problem. This thing is pouring smoke! compression is 180psi across the board but number 3 spark plug is soaked in oil. I started it up for the first time last night and it seemed fine but I didn't run it long. I let it warm up today and took it for a little drive. As soon as I pulled onto the road (a long downhill) I put it in second gave it about 3/4 throttle for a sec and let it decel down the hill around 4k rpms. as soon as I started to decel I noticed it pouring smoke out. It did this all the way down the hill and all the way back up. I pulled it into the shop and it was pouring smoke. Not sure what to make of it right now. It appears to be burning oil. This engine has ~10:1 forged pistons, new rings gapped at .018/.020, all bored, honed etc. all brand new. The smoke seems excessive for break in but maybe it will clear up?

[Ondonti]

Smoking at idle and decel or all the time..? If burning oil under high vacuum its a valve seal/guide issue.

If its a cylinder, maybe 2nd ring got installed upside down? Or oil ring is messed up. Are you doing hard accel/decel pulls for breakin?

[MC#4]

It starts smoking after about 2 mins of idling from a dead cold start. If I hold it at 2500 rpms it just pours more smoke. I'm afraid to drive it like this. I did try pulling the plug wire off of cylinder 3 (the one with the wet plug) and running it but it still smokes. Leaning towards something with the rings but I took a lot of time prepping them and making sure it was all good. I've never had a problem with valve seals or guides on this motor but I did have the heads disassembled so anything is possible.

[Ondonti]

It starts smoking after about 2 mins of idling from a dead cold start. If I hold it at 2500 rpms it just pours more smoke. I'm afraid to drive it like this. I did try pulling the plug wire off of cylinder 3 (the one with the wet plug) and running it but it still smokes. Leaning towards something with the rings but I took a lot of time prepping them and making sure it was all good. I've never had a problem with valve seals or guides on this motor but I did have the heads disassembled so anything is possible.

Well you will not make the motor happy if you dont put combustion pressure against the rings. If you have something mechanically wrong, then that wont get better. It is not an option to just idle your motor over and over because you will glaze the cylinder walls and all your cylinders will end up being unhappy. Be afraid to idle it more than afraid to push the motor. As long as you are not leaking fluids, drive it. If you have 1 bad ring setup then you can dissasemble and clean that cylinder up as little as possible and get the piston/rings how they should be. You just have to decide if you want to take it apart now or take a chance.

Take off the intake manifold and look at the intake valves since those are easy to see. Not sure about the exhaust valves since that would be a lot of work. If valve guides are leaking then it is not going to hurt anything. High vacuum leaks (idle and high idle) can be valve guide seals. My Built motor only smoked when warmed up and it smoked real bad under high vacuum but I believe the cylinder heads were still good (not leaking) when installed on another shortblock. Blamed the rings there.

I went back over the pistons I have out right now a few times checking to make sure the ring gaps do not line up with each other and that compression rings are in the up position.