Cool, lots of ideas thrown out! Looks like I'll probably grab a degree wheel and check em when I do the install, already have a dial indicator. If they are close I'll just let them go and if not we'll go from there.
Oh yeah shel-game hooked me up with a 7k rev limiter a while ago, ditched the speed limiter too.
Wow, last post was 6 weeks ago! Still trying to figure out why I bought those cams? Couldn't pass up a good deal I guess. They probably won't be installed for a while. I did get some work on the car done though. Got all my nitrous stuff removed and took my spacers out and hooked up my EGR to Pass PA state inspection... Good until 11/13 now!
The car has been running closer to desired afr at WOT lately. It must be due to the weather. When I was running back in march is was 50F and afr's were low mid 14's. Not that its 80F+ they are down in the mid 13's. Does this seem right? Does Temp affect it that much? I had my wideband off the car from april-july so I couldn't watch it then. I can't tell if its any faster, my butt dyno never could detect small-medium changes. Shel-game says that the ECU runs strictly off of set tables at WOT and nothing else has changed.
Would have thunk it would be fine with the spacers in, or are they really anal like CA there?
DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!
Nah its not that bad here but I had to take the spacers out so my egr tube lined back up.Originally Posted by RoadWarrior222
IRGT the AFR ratio, yeah, hotter air is less dense. If your injecting the same amount of fuel for 50*F and 80*F there will be an AFR difference (all else being held equal of course).
Heh, yah, inch too short otherwise, doh.
DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!
i was always 13.1 afr when WOT no matter what month of the year. stock ecu with a few bolt ons.
IRGT the AFR ratio??
In Regards To = IRGT
Ohhhhh, I DHAFC either.
DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!
Finally some good news!
Car is in the garage and I plan to have the transmission out tomorrow. Got a slew of parts here and on the way. I'm going to attempt to get the track and end the season with a bang. Last day is 11/4 and its not uncommon for the last few days to be rained out. So I've got about three weeks. I've got my sights set on the Record N/A 3.0 pass (14.20) but many varibles will determine if that will happen this year. I can only work on the car at nights and I don't know if the machine shop will be able to get things done in time.
On hand
OBX LSD prepped by TU
Stage IV purple plate w/ 232mm 6 puck disc (talk about overkill!)
3 poly mounts (Can finally replace the stock ones I filled with window weld. They didn't hold up very well at all.)
Re-grind cams from Knightmoves car
Solid rockers
On the way
3" catback exhaust from TU (will be making a downpipe) FINALLY get rid of the stock exhaust!
Misc maintenence stuff- wheel bearings/calipers/brake hoses/ball joints
About to order
10:1 diamante pistons and rings.
Anyone know anything about the aftermarket pistons? The ones I keep finding are made by "rock". They have it stamped right on the face. Cheapest I've found I think was $127. I'm struggling to find file fit rings for the .020/.040 pistons though.
My research show 1.2mm top ring 1.5mm second ring 3.0 mm oil ring.
Stock bore is 3.59 so for oversize file fit I'm looking for 3.615 (.020 over) or 3.635 (.040 over)
I want good rings too, not too worried about the price.
be carefull with that record pass. seems like its not meant to be broken.
I would replace overkill with 'never have to mess with it again'.Stage IV purple plate w/ 232mm 6 puck disc (talk about overkill!)
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Trans is out, differential is out. I was very suprised to see the diff pin looked like NEW! One of my main reasons for the OBX was because I was sure that pin was on its last legs. I've done ALOT of one wheel burnouts on it. I never even put pin savers on there.
Did run into a small problem. I can't figure out how to get the Differential/carrier bearings off. I've got a decent press but it won't push em out. I ordered new ones in case I can't get them off.
That is what I found when I dropped an OBX in my Shadow's transmission. Gave me a little more confidence to do burnouts during this years dragweek with the Spirit...
I purchased new bearings, but you should be able to press them off with a press and a bearing separator like this one http://www.harborfreight.com/bearing...set-93980.html Suspend the separator and use the press to push the diff down and be ready to catch the diff when the two do separate.Did run into a small problem. I can't figure out how to get the Differential/carrier bearings off. I've got a decent press but it won't push em out. I ordered new ones in case I can't get them off.
Did you purchase/have the right cap to press the bearing on? Do you have the tools to R&R the cup so you can change the shimming?
I have a bearing splitter but it looked to me that all the force would go through the outer cage and ruin it. FSM shows a special tool that isn't worth the effort to duplicate so I bought new ones from rock auto for $12. Timken set 11.
I'm going to try and follow the FSM procedure for swapping bearings/races and setting preload. I don't have all the special tools but I think i can improvise
You WILL in fact be pulling the bearing by the outer race and ruining it. So since it has to happen, dont let that slow you down.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Got the new bearings/races installed. Checked endplay which was pretty sloppy with the factory shim, added .020" worth of shims on top of it to end up with (calculated) .008" of preload. I couldn't get my hands on an inch lb torque wrench sensitive enough to check the turning torque but It turns smooth with no endplay, so I'm satisfied with that.
The install is a bit more involved than I originally thought so I'm gonna have to skip going to 10:1 pistons and getting my cams in this race season, I just won't have the time.
Rear manifolds, there's a 2.5" outlet one and a smaller one... make sure you have the big one, or your 3" pipes aren't gonna do much good. 3" seems a bit like overkill unless you're turboing it, but IMO 2.5 rear and 2.5 pipes are worth about 10-15HP over the 2.25 stuff.
I didn't recognise this for years, just got puzzled that every time I ran my van against the clock, I was getting figures that suggested it either had 20HP over stock output, or was 500lb light or something.. and the only "mods" was the best combo of exhaust bits, and the 3* timing advance. Though it has the 52mm TB stock on the '88 plenum... I have come to think though that either all those intake mods get corked by 2.25 rear manis or a lot of them do nothing and the 2.5 rear mani counts for a lot.
DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!
It amazes me, on matter how much time I spend reading through the forums, I skip over simple upgrades like that. I wasn't aware there were ever different manifolds? I'm sure my car would benefit from a larger rear mani outlet. I haven't measured mine but I know the downpipe is really small, like 2" ID. I think I have a spare rear mani from a 99 caravan, I'll have to measure it and see if its the larger one.
What are the known applications for the larger manifold?
BTW I checked an "exhaust calculator" and it came up to 2.5" for N/A and it said add .5" for nitrous use. That's why I went with 3". Nitrous is just liquid turbo after all.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
