Never seen an explanation of why they had parallel rails then changed over.
Never seen an explanation of why they had parallel rails then changed over.
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
Maybe going from batch to sequential?
DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!
That would certainly negate the need for a well designed fuel rail.
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
Still searching for an old style rail, well not so much searching as waiting for one to fall in my lap. Anyone have a line on one? Junkyards are pretty bare around here and my work schedule makes it a real pita to do a proper search.
I did get some racing in last night, the track was packed so I only got 4 passes in. Nothing really new to report, still running mid 15's. For some reason, the announcer kept saying I was running a turbo 3.0 although it was the first time I ever raced at this track and I didn't even write any info on the tech card. My launches were super weak sauce, only cutting 2.3 60 foots. It was nice to get it out again though, been over 2 months.
1st pass http://contour.com/stories/numidia-1--3 15.566
2nd pass http://contour.com/stories/numidia-2 (stayed in third just to see) 15.566 (Staging guy was really hung up on me strapping my helmet on )
3rd pass 15.555 (dialed 15.55)
4th pass 15.455 (weather started cooling off and broke out on race #2)
Decided not to spray, so these were all NA passes.
I think I have an old style rail laying around, I'll check and let you know.
Getting out there is a luxury. I had to watch today (first time even watching in almost 2 years) and I wouldn't even mind running 16's!
It was honda tech day and the funny thing is that nobody really cares who is mildly fast, they just like seeing underdogs win.
I have some fuel rails in a bucket but I think they are all random stuff (chrysler 3.3L, various mitsu 6g72, etc). I had been trying to use some other style of rail and I had a yard that would let me have junky stuff for cheap. I thought the 3.3 rails were cool because they have a huge feed line but I didn't even know if they lined up when I took them :P
Worst case senario, look for a fitting in the junk yard that bolts in place of that regulator. I know one of the mitsu 3.0's (not sure if its the variable intake or non variable intake diamante, I think its the non variable, same engine as pictured in the other thread here where Mdoe8 is swapping a 12 valve into their 3000gt. Has a fitting that just requires you slotting the bolt holes and it will fit in.
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
I did some research and it appears that ALL 3/S cars have the exact same fuel rail (sohc,dohc,tt) and a few companies make adapters for them. 3SX has em and at least 2 on ebay sell them. Looks very promising. I think I'm going to order a "diamond" shaped one and try it out. Is this similar to the one you were talking about Ondonti?
http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_vi...dProduct=24518
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AN-6-Fuel-Ra...40d518&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Rail-De...117871&vxp=mtr
Last edited by MC#4; 06-13-2012 at 06:58 PM. Reason: typo
How about I remember to take a picture first. Guessing those have a O ring fitting on the other side. Interesting idea if that works out because then we can get O ring to -an adapters with a little bolt slotting. Its also possible that the fitting is too long for our fuel rail so the flanges do not actually come together all the way but it still seals.
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
This project just got a small shot in the arm after a bit of a hiatus. I snagged some parts off of Knightmoves 3.0 on the other site. Got his already modded fuel rail, since I never did stumble upon one and never ordered that adapter I said I would. Got his Reground cams/solid rocker setup too so I'll be able to utilize my 7k rev limiter. Of course I don't have these parts in my hands yet and I still have quite a bit on my plate with other projects so It will be a while till I see the results of this.
Has anyone modded stock cam gears to make them adjustable? I think I saw ed did it but can't find the info now. I know RPW sells adj. cam gears but I can't justify the costs. How much is there to gain by degreeing cams anyway? This isn't an all out race car by any means but I hate leaving power on the table.
I guess how much there is to gain depends on where you want to gain it. If you want to gain power at the stock power peak by degreeing a stock cam, i think the gains will be small. If you want to gain power at higher rpm with totally different cam grinds on adjustable cam gears, id say the 'gains' vs just slapping them in there without checking anything would be pretty good.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
im curious to see how well his cams work, seeing as how the motor never actually saw the road.
Ed simply re drilled the hole in the cam bolt's washer. (or whatever that washer thing is)
he did the math for it and made a new hole where he wanted it.. at least thats how i remember it being done. you could also slot the hole and make it adjustable but im not sure how well that would hold up. RPW gears are expensive and i remember ready all of brent's old porsts and seeing him never being happy with his advanced or retarded cam setup.
The other way is to get 2 sets of gears and hack the hub out of one, the gear ring off the other, and make some slots in one, tapped holes in the other, and screw them together... might need to weld a new disk to a hub...
These will be heavy, but at least when you figure where you wanna be you can figure how to mod it to there with stockers.
DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!
doh! he may have left the washer alone and made a new hole in the cam gear its self. cant remember
or put them into the heads first and use a cheap dial indicator and base and degree wheel to see how far out they are anyway. the poor mans way is to see how they may be out or figure out how far you want to change them and weld up the keyway on the cam gear and redrill or mill it over however more you want degree wise.
Im sure Brent will speak for himself when he sees the thread but i think the reason he was never happy with cam adjustments was he didnt have the rev limiter control to be able to use them as they were designed to be used.
I also wouldnt bother getting a cam much different from stock unless you plan to move the stock rev limiter.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
I dunno, it stops your other mods pushing your power band out of range, pull it back on the cam. But I want mine all fat middle for an auto, not high top for a stick.
I thunk Rob had the rev limiter figured for 3.0s now. But that's been in the last couple of years where Brent has been busy with life.
DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!
I ovaled the cam sprocket hole, then welded the other side to move the hole just slightly...
Yeah the 3.0 rev limiter is not a big deal now. I socketed my 3.0 dynasty to move the rev limiter but ended up selling it to another enthusiast for a good price so i could focus on my two other 3.0 projects lol.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?