Originally Posted by minigts
They only put it in there so they won't have to print another set for England. I think it cautions against using the Nm at the front of the book unless you're a card carrying socialist. It's right before the section showing the general torque guidelines for various bolt sizes.
Ha ha. You guys are entertaining. 105 inch pounds FTW! Install studs if you can to avoid stripping or hydrolocking. Links to the studs you need are in my build thread for convenience. Makes a big difference.
I thought pretty hard about installing some, but I decided that I have a hard enough time dropping and losing the bolts. The nuts and washers are even smaller.
I use nuts with washers attached (bought at the same place). I install them easily by starting them with a magnetic pickup tool. Then the ratchet. Without the pick up tool it is pretty tricky but if I pull the valve cover I just make sure I have one handy.
I can't hang on to anything to save my life. I need a magnet in the base of a socket. IIRC I lost 2-3 bolts doing the VC before SDAC. Granted it was dark outside while we were working, but I'm just horrible about that. My car must rain nuts and bolts out onto the street periodically, because they sure don't end up under the car while I'm working.
Same with those E clips now that I think about it. Clearly they were invented by the devil.
And I got a box of 50 of the nuts for cheap from bolt depot so if I do lose some behind the engine I have a plenty of extra.
I'll have to check them out. The JY usually lets me have them for free, but it is nice to order stuff up once in a while.
I haven't had any real problems with the Fel-Pro ones, but try to find one of the Mopar or Victor-Reinz gaskets (I'm pretty sure they're the same). I've got the VR gaskets on both my Charger and Daytona, and no leaks to speak of.
very true, but the head is machined, and he could polish the valve cover mating surface with some wet sand paper to achieve the desired result. Which ones would you have used that would not be rated for aa valve cover? In this case we're mating aluminum valve cover to an aluminum cylender head. He's also considering using some selant in conjunction with a gasket, so i don't see why he couldn't use this product. I will back track on the Permatex part as I don't know for sure if it will do the same as the Mopar verson
Here's a better shot of the Mopar brand, it clearly says "compatable with aluminum" on the tube.
http://www.dailydriventj.com/images/rm/1.jpg
At around 32min20sec mark, Ed Peters is talking about mating aluminum to aluminum, and is stressing Mopar anarobic sealant "use this to mate any aluminum to aluminum junctions that you have" -Ed Peters
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_toEAYSOB0
The issue is that most anerobic sealants are only good for .050" or smaller gaps to seal. RTV on the other hand is good in most cases up to 3/8" gaps. If you are certain that the side rails of your valve cover will be .050" or less from the surface of the head then go ahead and try. I'll stick with the gasket and a small dab of RTV in the corners.
“If the people of the nation understood our banking and monetary system, I believe there would be a revolution before tomorrow morning.” -Henry Ford
Well got the car running again, but it appears that it's still burning as it was before. Good news is, it's not leaking at the exhaust as it was, so that's good. I think the valve stem seals are just crap or place where the seals mounts are crap. May try to replace them with the head CAREFULLY. I know it can be done and I don't feel like removing the head again, so we'll see. But MAN that car is fun to drive! I was finally able to get on it and go and it will get on it.
[SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]
Man I love reading your build threads. Keep up the good work!
Heh, thanks man. Spoke to someone about the valve seals and I'm going to make one last attempt at making the current stuff work. If not I may just drive it as a backup and at night so the oil burning isn't noticed as much. :-D Making progress though.
[SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]
valve spring compressor and some soft nylon rope.
That is the plan for sure. Wish i had been more thorough when the head was off, but the quality of.the head makes me.think this is a last ditch effort. Regardless, the other major issues have been addressed.
[SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]
Well I pulled the seals, cleaned them, the seats and then dabbed some RTV and installed them again. Car burns LESS oil, but it's still burning. However, as mentioned previously, it burns hardly any when you get on it. So I guess I'm going to have to be under boost wherever I go from this point until I get a head that is built right.
And as a side note, if you're doing this yourself, be sure to remember to put the rope in BEFORE you compress the spring and pull the retainers off! haha I was ONE retainer away from doing this on #2 and then realized I needed to add the rope. Granted, I had just done #3, so it MAY not have dropped all the way. Going to get a tag for it and drive this one for a bit.
[SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]
Names removed to protect the guilty(not me but a friend); someone I know had a valve drop down while doing seals & springs one day. Luckily they were in the same position as you and it only fell partway down the guide. A small magnet, patience and skills learned while playing Operation were used to get it to come back up and finish the job.
“If the people of the nation understood our banking and monetary system, I believe there would be a revolution before tomorrow morning.” -Henry Ford
hahaha Well it was a little scary once I realized what could have happened.
Alright, well the car was burning oil still and with the valve cover STILL leaking (seriously, a 1 piece gasket that has ONE use?!, pathetic) I decided to pull the valve cover again and see which valve guide seal came off. WELL wouldn't you know it, it was the one that WASN'T leaking before!!! I still have the spring compressor, so I'm going to do this YET AGAIN on the last seal and see if this works. The other ones seem to be ok and I did notice that it was burning less oil, so maybe once this one is "fixed", it will stop burning oil? We'll see.
[SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]
Wow, I don't know how I missed this thread? Anyway that motor mount is probably the cause of the clunking. I had one that actually broke on my Spirit and drove me crazy chasing down. It's a little more visible on an 8V car
If the valve cover was the source of your oil leak, everything would have been soaked back there when pulling apart and it probably would have found a path to the exhaust manifold causing a lot of smoke.
The gasket wasn't the source of the leak, well the burning oil leak. Three of the valve guide seals came off their mounts. From the onset, 3 out of the 4 were off, one was fine. Now, 3 out of the 4 are fine and the one that was is now off.Wow, I don't know how I missed this thread? Anyway that motor mount is probably the cause of the clunking. I had one that actually broke on my Spirit and drove me crazy chasing down. It's a little more visible on an 8V car
If the valve cover was the source of your oil leak, everything would have been soaked back there when pulling apart and it probably would have found a path to the exhaust manifold causing a lot of smoke.So I have to repeat the procedure again for the one and hope that it stays. If the other ones are fine for now, I'm hoping that will solve my problem for the time being. :\
[SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]
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