A413 rebuild kit?

[wallace]

Is there a rebuild kit availble for the a413 or is this something you have to buy in pieces? I'd also like some advice on what to use for clutches, gaskets, etc. Car is a 1987 Chrysler T&C wagon. It still drives but now does not like to shift when cold and under power does not like to shift. 2-3 shift has bad flare in it. I could probably put the governor kit in it and adjust the bands to get most of it straightened out but if I'm going to go that far I'll do the rebuild as well. Any advice, tips, warnings, etc is appreciated. Thanks.

[135sohc]

Theres different kits out there. Really depends upon how much you want/need to replace. Most dont include all the bushings/thrust washers but they are available in seperate kits. Sonnax upgraded parts are a good idea. 5 pinion planetary is a drop in part and reasonably priced. Retainer tabs for the differential pin are pennies vs the cost when the pin launches outward.

[marc]

Here you go: http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...ProductId=1943

[BIG PSI]

Thanks for the link, marc

[turbovanman²]

I can supply anything you need too.

http://web.archive.org/web/200312090...s%20detail.htm

That pretty well covers it.

Get the Sonnax governor kit, HD rear band strut, tighten clutch packs, weld up the planetary's, get a decent converter.

[wallace]

Here you go: http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...ProductId=1943

Marc, are the frictions and steels in the kit good for performance use? Does it have enough frictions and steels for the recommended extras for performance use? Thanks for the information fellas, any additonal information or advice is greatly appreciated.

I read the link you posted turbovanman and here is what I see I may need to do:
1. Larger differential out of 1996 and later tranny
2. Diff pin retainer
3. Re-weld stock 4 pinion planetary
4. rear band strut upgrade (sonnax?)
5. Ridgid rear band-where to source this piece
6. 5 clutches in rear drum-what addtional parts do I need (washers, springs, thinner steels, etc)?
7. Modify spring in front clutch pack for fimer 2-3 shift. 2-3 shift sucks in the car right now.
8. Governor upgrade kit from Sonnax
9. Solid ended pinion gear-is this also sourced from 96' and later tranny as well?

[marc]

Those kits are for a stock rebuild. I would say a stock transmission can take a litte extra power, but I don't know the limit. Other here are better to answer that.

[135sohc]

Alto kolene steels are the good ones. To stuff more clutch discs in the rear you use the thinner steels from the VW version of the A13, the A404.

HD band strut sonnax: 32710-01
5 pinion front planetary mopar 4659141

The solid pinion gear started in 90 or 91 iirc.

[wallace]

Alto kolene steels are the good ones. To stuff more clutch discs in the rear you use the thinner steels from the VW version of the A13, the A404.

HD band strut sonnax: 32710-01
5 pinion front planetary mopar 4659141

The solid pinion gear started in 90 or 91 iirc.

Is welding the 4 pinion a good alternative to the 5 pinion planet? Can I get a 5 pinion planet out of a stock application? So for the extra clutches in the rear I would order kolene steels for the VW A404, where would I be able to order those from? Thank you!

[R/T]

With the 5 fiber discs you need a thinner, flat snap ring - the one from the rear(?) clutch pack works nicely.

ALSO: If you're rebuilding the entire trans - all clean inside, *I* would'nt use the governer spring kit - it's for patching up a crusty, old trans..

I put on in my Wife's trans when I rebuilt it, it's annoying and I would'nt do it again...

The same spring that keeps the valve from sticking *also* keeps the trans from shifting where it "normally" would -
it raises the shift points and makes the trans shift both up and down more than it needs to. Before I found a good adjustment for the kickdown cable, it would shift 1st to 2nd at 27 MPH - so we would be driving around the subdivision in first gear. Now it hits second at 23mph.


Then again, some people might like it....

[JDIZZ]

With the 5 fiber discs you need a thinner, flat snap ring - the one from the rear(?) clutch pack works nicely.

ALSO: If you're rebuilding the entire trans - all clean inside, *I* would'nt use the governer spring kit - it's for patching up a crusty, old trans..

I put on in my Wife's trans when I rebuilt it, it's annoying and I would'nt do it again...

The same spring that keeps the valve from sticking *also* keeps the trans from shifting where it "normally" would -
it raises the shift points and makes the trans shift both up and down more than it needs to. Before I found a good adjustment for the kickdown cable, it would shift 1st to 2nd at 27 MPH - so we would be driving around the subdivision in first gear. Now it hits second at 23mph.


Then again, some people might like it....

I agree with R/T.
The Sonnax governor kit is for patching a dirty transmission. The governor valves stick from the dirt and debris circulating in the transmission. The sticking of the valve usually means something is coming apart to cause the debris to circulate.

I have ordered several times from here with good results: http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...gory_Code=A404

To reduce or eliminate the second to third shift flair. Keep the third clutch pack clearance to about .010 " per clutch, ie four clutches, .040 ". Use this along with valve body shift mods and a properly set throttle pressure cable.

[turbovanman²]

And run in inline magnetic oil filter, they are worth every penny.

[wallace]

Ordered from bulkpart today. I ordered a master kit with seals, frictions, steels. I also ordered 404 Alto steels, thrust washer kit, HD strut, and semi-ridgid bands for both drums. Anything I missed? I'm going to re-use the 4 pinion planetaries and just weld them up. Any info appreciated. Thanks.

[turbovanman²]

Drain plug or DP Kit for the pan, another snap ring, reusable pan gasket, tap and plug for the side of the trans, rtv, loctite, ATSG manual if you don't have one. You'll need to make an adapter to get the 3rd gear clutch apart to replace the seals, I cut down some 3" pipe and use a vice.

Does the kit come with bearings?

[wallace]

No bearings. I wanted to ask about those and the carrier itself. Should I replace the transfer shaft bearings too? I was going to source the diff bearings and races from local dodge dealer. This is the original trans out of the car with about 90,000 miles on it. #3 thrust washer was wasted, chewed up and the little tangs on the inside of it were mostly gone. I had about .050" input shaft end play. I got the ATSG manual last week. Also the only HD sonnax strut they had was listed for a404 but I called and they said it was the same thing the part # did not match the one listed in this thread.

[135sohc]

Differential bearings are timken set-11, autozone has them for $20/pair. Think its a dealer only part but a shim kit for the side gears inside the differential is $20 and the tabbed shims under the pinion gears are a few dollars each as well.

[turbovanman²]

No bearings. I wanted to ask about those and the carrier itself. Should I replace the transfer shaft bearings too? I was going to source the diff bearings and races from local dodge dealer. This is the original trans out of the car with about 90,000 miles on it. #3 thrust washer was wasted, chewed up and the little tangs on the inside of it were mostly gone. I had about .050" input shaft end play. I got the ATSG manual last week. Also the only HD sonnax strut they had was listed for a404 but I called and they said it was the same thing the part # did not match the one listed in this thread.

Take it apart and inspect, unless you've had alot of heavy metal wear, they should be ok. The diff bearings are probably worth doing though.

I have never had to reshim if putting new bearings in and reusing the old shims.

Yep, A404 is the same strut.

I do sell the rear planetary modded with a needle thrust bearing as it takes the most load.

The preload thrust washer on the end of the output shaft is usually too thin in the rebuild kits, so you might have to do some digging around to get the right thickness.

[wallace]

What's the price on the rollerized planetary? Is that a 4 or 5 pinion one? I also mentioned above another snap ring, where would I get one and at what location might I need it for? What end play do you set the input shaft up for? The spec in the book was very broad I want to say it was .007"-.071". Also turbonvanman since I'm picking your brain what about the spring for the 2-3 clutch I saw you had said the Neon spring was a bit softer and worked better where can I get one of those?

[turbovanman²]

What's the price on the rollerized planetary? Is that a 4 or 5 pinion one? I also mentioned above another snap ring, where would I get one and at what location might I need it for? What end play do you set the input shaft up for? The spec in the book was very broad I want to say it was .007"-.071". Also turbonvanman since I'm picking your brain what about the spring for the 2-3 clutch I saw you had said the Neon spring was a bit softer and worked better where can I get one of those?

Its just the rear housing that the planetary goes into, the one that goes on top of the sprag, $80 with the bearing.

You can get the snap ring from a tranny shop or order one from Dodge.

I set the end play on the tighter side, around .020-.030" seem to be where most of mine turn out.

I found the Neon ones seem to be softer, so you can again hit up a tranny shop and ask for the Neon clutch, then just rob the spring out of it or IIRC, use that drum as it should hold 4 discs like the turbo units.

[JDIZZ]

Differential bearings are timken set-11, autozone has them for $20/pair. Think its a dealer only part but a shim kit for the side gears inside the differential is $20 and the tabbed shims under the pinion gears are a few dollars each as well.

Like 135sohc wrote above. If you are using the stock differential, make sure to get a differential shim kit from the dealer and set the differential side gears with the largest shim that will allow you to still turn the gears with out binding. Check the side gears and the shaft they ride on well, as this transmission will gall the bearing surface on both of them and spit the shaft with catastrophic results. Most of the time the side gears are OK, I always change the shaft and I let the shaft rotate. I retain the shaft by welding two old 2.2 head bolt washers on the diff over the shaft. For the transmission, don't forget to get a sprag kit (springs and rollers). Set ALL clearance to the tight side.