A413 rebuild kit?

[JDIZZ]

miller makes a tool for that L-4440. currently a few listed on ebay.

The tool is an option, thanks. The several that I have seen are nothing more than a plastic copy of the overrunning clutch inner race. I could never find one for a reasonable price so I beat up an old case.

[JDIZZ]

That drum is part of the case and not replaceable except with another case, maybe snap some pics, it should be smooth or the rollers can catch and bind.

Check it out, it is a case saver.
Heck, the miller tool may cost more than this.




Inner race, A413 / 470 / 670 Rear
*Bolt in, with bolts.
$47.84


http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...Code=A404sprag

[135sohc]

http://atransmission.info/inner-race...5-470-670.html

[turbovanman²]

Check it out, it is a case saver.
Heck, the miller tool may cost more than this.




Inner race, A413 / 470 / 670 Rear
*Bolt in, with bolts.
$47.84


http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...Code=A404sprag

I saw that after you posted the link for band strut, pretty cool, saves trashing a case if you need one,

[zin]

Lots of good info here, maybe something that could morph into a KC article?...

Mike

[turbovanman²]

Lots of good info here, maybe something that could morph into a KC article?...

Mike

I've been planning to do that for years, lol.

[JDIZZ]

http://atransmission.info/inner-race...5-470-670.html

LOL, yours has the nice picture.

[wallace]

Upon disassembling the direct clutch I got a surprise, it only has 3 clutches in it. This is to my best knowledge the factory transmission for this car. Would a factory 1987 turbo car come this way? I need to go to the junkyard to get a 4 clutch one. I was thinking about snagging the 5 pinion planetaries out of a neon while I was at it. The transmission also has the 2 sealing ring input shaft and per the manual there is an upgraded 3 sealing ring that has better pumpt and whatnot. Can I get all of this out of the 95-99 neon transmission? Thanks.

[135sohc]

If you can find a p/n or assembly number somewhere on the case and cross it over to an 87 listing and see if its a T1 transmission or something else. Just grab the whole neon transmission if the price is right. Everything internal is the same or better that what you have now. IIRC 96+ was the larger d-side bearing support on the differential among other things.

[turbovanman²]

Upon disassembling the direct clutch I got a surprise, it only has 3 clutches in it. This is to my best knowledge the factory transmission for this car. Would a factory 1987 turbo car come this way? I need to go to the junkyard to get a 4 clutch one. I was thinking about snagging the 5 pinion planetaries out of a neon while I was at it. The transmission also has the 2 sealing ring input shaft and per the manual there is an upgraded 3 sealing ring that has better pumpt and whatnot. Can I get all of this out of the 95-99 neon transmission? Thanks.

Most likely it was replaced at some point, not sure if 87 came upgraded, can't remember.

As said, grab a Neon trans, it has all the goodies but don't use the rear planetary, its cast, some like, some don't.

[wallace]

My donor was a 96 neon dohc. It did not have the 5 pinion planetaries, both were stamped 4 pinion. It did have the large diff bearing on the cast side but I did not get it I'm just going to run the diff I have. I did get both clutch baskets, input shaft, and pump assembly. I also did as jdizz suggested and beat the inner sprag race out of the donor case so I can load the sprag with the band installed. I got both clutches done I used 5 frictions in the direct clutch with the 404 steels. Clearance came in around .065". I tried replacing one 404 with a stock steel and the clearance was way too tight like .040" so I left it at .065", that's with the forward clutch snap ring. The forward clutch clearance is .035" with 4 clutches and stock 413 steels. What are you guys thoughts on re-using the differential carrier bearings? They look fine I did get the spider gear shim kit and do intend on tightening them up. I also got a new center pin for the diff and am going to weld in a washer on either end to retain it. Still undecided if I will put the roll pin in it. I did weld the stock 4 pinion planetaries up. got my 3 bar cal from boost button in the mail Friday so going to hook up the lm1 while its in the shop and install the tune and map sensor.

[turbovanman²]

If your diff bearings are fine, reuse them.

.040" is ok, .065 is a bit loose.

[135sohc]

New center pins are not drilled for the roll pin.

[wallace]

What do you guys use to hold the transfer gears so you can torque the nut down? I'll put one 413 steelie in the direct clutch then and that will give me about .040". Going back together now and have governor cleaned and installed just trying to come up with a way to hold the gear so I can torque the nut. Tempted to use the impact on it...

[turbovanman²]

What do you guys use to hold the transfer gears so you can torque the nut down? I'll put one 413 steelie in the direct clutch then and that will give me about .040". Going back together now and have governor cleaned and installed just trying to come up with a way to hold the gear so I can torque the nut. Tempted to use the impact on it...

Impact gun is all I use, make sure to put red loctite on the threads. Too hold them, I use a philips thru one of the bolt holes or you can use a rag between the teeth to lock them.

[wallace]

I used the impact but didn't loctite the nuts. I'll go back and do that. The side gears in the diff had .032" shims in them I changed them out for the .037". I tried the next ones up but the gears were binding a bit so I used the .037". Most of the component rebuild is done pretty much need to assemble it now.

[RoadWarrior222]

I also got a new center pin for the diff and am going to weld in a washer on either end to retain it. Still undecided if I will put the roll pin in it.

Supposedly leaving it able to rotate stops it galling in one spot. Watch what rod you use on on those washers. You want something more towards malleable rather than brittle in the weld, the diff gets a lot of shocks, you don't want the washers cracking off from a shock. You could test on your old pin, weld a washer on it and if you can smack it off with a hammer before you've bent hell out of the washer, then try something different.

---------- Post added at 07:34 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:30 AM ----------

Oh, depends which way round you're doing that of course, don't know if you mean to cap the holes with a washer, or weld the washer to the pin, either way, you don't want a brittle weld on it. From what I remember of mine, I would say it's not quite enough clearance either way to either cap the holes flush, or weld on the pin.

[wallace]

I was going to weld the washer to the housing and not the pin. Pin is chromed and I'd be concerned the heat might screw that up. Can someone who uses the washer method confirm you weld to the carrier or to the pin? I was thinking if you welded to the pin it may not be able to rotate freely.

[turbovanman²]

I was going to weld the washer to the housing and not the pin. Pin is chromed and I'd be concerned the heat might screw that up. Can someone who uses the washer method confirm you weld to the carrier or to the pin? I was thinking if you welded to the pin it may not be able to rotate freely.

The new setup the pin rotates freely, JDIZZ and I chatted about it, I prefer to let the pin take all the wear as I don't like the fact of the pin wearing out the diff, but he likes that way. Pick your poison.

[RoadWarrior222]

Most of the time it's not gonna want to turn though, due to having equal torque off both side gears which are spinning opposite to each other. So it's not really gonna eat out the casting or anything (And what if it does, they ain't special, and you could bronze sleeve it.) If there's any wear at all it's likely to be from the pin loading and unloading the push to the casting a bazillion times rather than spinning.