Easiest way to replace rods and what can be upgraded?

[mopargriffin]

Hello TM, I have an 84 Rampage that is making a little bit of noise. It sounds like clatter coming from the valve train, but upon leaning over the passenger fender and listening more towards the block, almost sounds like a knock...Iv never taken her past 4500rpm, I have a 4500rpm rev limiter chip in the msd 6al. Most days I dont take it past 3500rpm. I can hear the noise most at idle but gets quieter with more rpm. I ordered new lifters, il know if its that when they are in later today. The bottom end is completely stock as far as I know. I had the head checked (tested perfect) and had them regrind a clean flat surface. I added a .460 mopar cam, 4 degree offset cam key, mopar springs that hold up to .460 lift, and sintered iron rocker arms. Im putting a b/m supercharger on it in the next week or two but if its a rod, il tackle that while its apart. I bought this as a first car project, and iv learned a lot about it, but since Iv never had issues with the bottom end Im not exactly sure whats needed. Il pull the head, intake and header. Then should I pull the half shafts, then unbolt the trans from the block and pull separate while I have something to support the trans from underneath or pull together at once? Or leave it in but put the truck on jack stands? Once out, pull the pan and unbolt the rods. I can order a new bearing kit which comes with the 2 end bearings plus ones for each rod for $45 from a local parts store. Also replace wrist pins? This is my first time tearing into the block so bear with me please. I would appreciate it anyone has any information to share. What are my options for replacement pistons or rods? What would be an upgrade? And lastly, how would you go about replacing the rods? Thank you for your time, -MG

[contraption22]

Drop the oil pan and check the rod bearings before you do anything. If by the unlikely chance they are hammered and the crank looks good, put new bearings in. I've never been that lucky.

The right way to fix it is to pull the engine out, replace or regrind the crank, then put new bearings in.

If you are going to put the supercharger on it, I would tear down the engine and rebuild anyway so it was completely fresh.

[turbovanman²]

Most likely the knock your hearing is wrist pin, which means new pistons. IF you drop the pan and the bearings are fine, then you have 2 options, pull the head and do an in car rering with new pistons-which if supercharging, I would upgrade to TII rods and turbo pistons unless you want the compression, or pull the engine and start fresh. The transmission doesn't have to come off of any incar rering or piston replacement. Also, if reusign your old rods, install ARP's but you'll need them rebuilt by a machine shop, so in that case, might be cheaper to hit up a vendor and buy stock rods rebuilt.

[mopargriffin]

So if I pull the pan am I just looking for physical play in the bottom of the rods due to the bearings being shot? Do I take it apart to inspect or just try to see if they move? If I were to put new pistons in and I have the head pulled, would I unbolt the rods of underneath then pull threw the top? I was told that these wrist pins are pressed in, so id have to have a shop do that. Or do people sell rods with pistons complete and ready to drop in? Thank you both for your help, really appreciate it.

[turbovanman²]

So if I pull the pan am I just looking for physical play in the bottom of the rods due to the bearings being shot? Do I take it apart to inspect or just try to see if they move? If I were to put new pistons in and I have the head pulled, would I unbolt the rods of underneath then pull threw the top? I was told that these wrist pins are pressed in, so id have to have a shop do that. Or do people sell rods with pistons complete and ready to drop in? Thank you both for your help, really appreciate it.

No, you remove the rod cap and look at the bearings, they should be silver with minimal gouging, if they are copper all the way around, then dirt, etc went thru and you'll need to replace them and check the mains too. If just the top center is copper, thats detonation damage and new bearings are fine.

Yep, pistons come out the top. IF you go TII rods and pistons, they use clips so you don't anything pressed. Check with the vendors on both accounts.

[mopargriffin]

Thank you for your help turbovanman! If I go t2 rods and pistons, will it drop my compression? For the sc Im either going with a head gasket + shim or a double thickness cometic hg that drops my compression 1 point, or 8.0:1.

[turbovanman²]

Thank you for your help turbovanman! If I go t2 rods and pistons, will it drop my compression? For the sc Im either going with a head gasket + shim or a double thickness cometic hg that drops my compression 1 point, or 8.0:1.

If you use TII pistons, it will drop your compression ratio to around 8.5:1 if using the G-head, so using a thicker Cometic, TII pistons, you can get around 8:1. How much boost are you going to run? If not much, I'd stick with 8.5:1.

[mopargriffin]

Just the stock pulley, I believe its good up to 6psi. Im getting everything planned out, Im leaning towards the lifters being bad and the rods are ok. Never ran low on oil and never taken past 4500rpm. If the noise goes away tomorrow when I put new lifters in then Im not going to tear into the block until I need to. I think Il pull the head, install head gasket + shim, bolt it back up, put the b/m intake on, supercharger and carb. Then time it to 8 degrees and see how she runs. Iv been watching tons of youtube videos on replacing rod bearings, doesnt appear to be difficult now that I have an idea of what Im doing. If the lifters dont help, then Il drop the pan and check the bearings. Also put new piston rings in and wrist pins. I see they have the arp rod bolts on TU, il order them. Thanks for your help man!!

[contraption22]

Griffin,

Does this car have an automatic or manual trans? If auto, check the flexplate. They can come loose and make a noise that sounds like rod bearings.

Do you have the Mopar Performance 2.2 FWD book?

[turbovanman²]

True on the auto.

I doubt the noise will go away with the lifters but they are cheap. I would install some PT/SRT lifters, better design.

[mopargriffin]

Soaked new lifters in oil over night then gave them some lifter lube. Fired it up and for the first few minutes those lifters made so much noise because the oil pressure wasnt up yet. Once pressure went up the lifter noise completly went away and there are no more knocking sounds. I got lucky! The Rampage was an auto, but recently converted to 5sp. @ contraption, I have the mopar 2.2 speed secrets book, or are you talking about a different one? Mine has two engines on the cover, one sporting the weber side draft setup. Thanks a million for all your help guys!

[turbovanman²]

Nice, very rare that happens.

BTW, never soak lifters, it can cause the lifter to hydraulic and cause the valve to stay open at the wrong time. On our engines, not so much of a big deal but others, could be catastrophic.

[mopargriffin]

Would you have gave them some oil/ lifter lube then put them in right away? Thanks for your input turbovanman!!

[turbovanman²]

Would you have gave them some oil/ lifter lube then put them in right away? Thanks for your input turbovanman!!

You just coat the outsides with oil or assembly lube, that's it.

[contraption22]

Is this the book you have? Sorry for the small picture.

[mopargriffin]

Yes thats the book I was up all night reading. Great book! Arent there more performance books?

[contraption22]

Yes thats the book I was up all night reading. Great book! Arent there more performance books?

It is a great book. An excellent resource. They have newer versions of that book, but they seem to have less information about earlier carbed stuff like yours. I was gonna send you one if you didn't already have it.

[mopargriffin]

Thanks contraption, I appreciate the offer. You guys have any idea what kind of head this is? Anything special? value? [IMG][/IMG]Cast in 90'
[IMG][/IMG] hearts???
[IMG][/IMG] on the right side of the head there are two letter "A's next to each other, "AA." On the passenger side of the head, theres a C and an S. Random letters or shelby? thanks guys

[turbovanman²]

Its a 287 G head, which isn't really anything special, not sure what the heart means?