What rpm are you pulling to? Rev limit?
What rpm are you pulling to? Rev limit?
6500 so far, rev limiter is set at 7000, heard it bounce off the rev limiter a few times when its spinning in second or third, definitely hit the rev limiter yesterday in third.
I did discover after driving home yesterday that the boost line to the solenoid blew off, not sure when it happened yesterday, need to clamp that down now.
The A/C was working and now it stopped, found out there is a obstruction in condenser, the line going in to the condensor heats up from the compressor, but the line coming out does not, fluid is not traveling through the condenser. I will have to pull the line and hope I can use compressed air to push the obstruction back out opposite of normal flow.
Tuning on corn is going well, 2 tanks through and I am getting 17MPG with the A/C running most of that time, not bad at all. Made up this quick calculation table at work, it is cheaper to run E85 than premium when broken down:
Fuel Type E85 Premium Capacity 12 12 Gallons MPG 17 21 M/Gal Range 204 252 Miles Price Per G 1.59 2.45 Total Cost 19.08 29.4 $ Per Mile 0.093529 0.116667 Cents Per Mile 9.352941 11.66667
Haven't drove the car in two weeks and this is what I find after firing up the car and it running like crap.
Always something with the turbo dodge......
Discovered a fuel leak in front of the passenger rear tire, will put the car up on jacks tonight and locate then fix the problem, wondering if the 24 year old rubber fuel line is not liking the e85.
Fuel filter hoses.
Fixed the issue last night, thought the problem was the fuel hose going into the filter. Replaced that and then still leaking, found a pin hole size leak in the metal line right behind the hose coupling. Ended up replacing 4 feet of steel line with rubber fuel injection hose between the fuel pump and fuel filter, all leaks are fixed now. Fuel mileage should really go up now.
Took the car to the racetrack a week back for Powercruise. The car preformed pretty well and I made a fool of plenty of "fast cars." On saturday of the event, I started hearing gear whine. It gets louder and higher pitched the faster I go, its only noticable under power, if I let off the gas, the sound goes away. I pulled the transmission fill plug yesterday and the fluid is up to the proper level, but it was dark and black. I replaced the fluid in the transmssion last spring so it only has a little over a year on it, not sure where the sound is coming from, thought about changing the tranny fluid as a first step to discover whats going on. Made countless pull on the track from 2nd -5th. Breaking 100-130 mph during pulls many times, boosting around 33-38 PSI. Car has a built A523 with an OBX.
I think you need to pull the gearset out of the tranny and make sure the pinion bearing and race are OK. The race on the 568 is known to "walk off" the shaft and eat up the case itself (eventually). The bearing is a bit better than the A555 one, but still can have the same issues. Might need to check out the diff bearings, too.
I welded the bearing race to the shaft when I built the transmission a year ago, per numerous discussions with Jackson. I could be wrong, but I'm leaning towards the preload of the Diff not being right anymore, I am going to check that first before I tear the tranny out and see if its correct, there was a very very faint noise after I rebuilt the tranny, im wondering if the preload on the diff was off a tiny amount to begin with.
I tried re-shimming the diff this past fall and that did not make the sound go away. Going to pull the transmission out of the car and completely go through it. I got an engine stand for Christmas so I have my own finally and can stop borrowing one when necessary and take my time going through it.
I have had the transmission out of this car numerous times and it can be a pain to line up the engine to it on re installation, does anyone know what the thread on the block is so I can make some guide pins. I have heard a few people in the past make something and I would love to speed up the installation! I recall hearing something about Ford ______ head bolts and cutting the head off and cutting a slot for a screw driver. I just need to know what people have used in the past or what the thread size and required length is.
Thanks
A little searching says 12x1.75 thread.
Tip for using guide pins:
looking at the flywheel side of the engine, install ONLY the top left (toward the oil filter side of the engine) guide pin (cut down bolt). Get the transmission up and on the pin, then you can rotate the rear of the transmission into place and install the other top pin. The reason you want 2 pins is so you can slide the tranny back and forth a little in case you have to much with the input shaft alignment. Once everything is aligned and the tranny is slid up onto the dowels in the block, you can then start installing bolts.
I have had very good luck doing it this way myself a number of times.
What do you usually use for guide pins. I was debating on either some long threaded bolts or some shoulder bolts with the head cut off.
I've pulled the tranny a few times, reinstall has been a pain every time so any help is much appreciated.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I use shoulder bolts with the head cut off and a slot cut in for a flat-head screwdriver.
I wouldn't usually ask this, I would use trial and error, but I'm really busy. What length shoulder bolts would you use? I need to order some and get all my items before I start this project.
I think they were something like 3". I will try to remember when I get home to look.
Wanted to make sure I don’t run out of fuel. Adding 450 pump in a brand new housing. Mods to come soon!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Made some progress this past weekend. Pulled the transmission out to try and solve the whine. While pulling that out my buddy noticed that my turbo has excessive side to side play. So I am rebuilding the Holset and removing the inline filter since I think that had a negative affect on the turbo, read the oil feed filters on journal bearing turbos can be a bad idea, I think that is why it was wearing. Was going to replace the stock 5/16 fuel line with a bent 3/8 line, but that will not work so I will be replacing it with 3/8 Fuel injection hose E85 Compliant instead. Found that my O2 wires are crispy and hard, so I will be replacing a portion of them. Also the speedometer wires are a bit crispy, so I'll repair them and wrap them in heat shielding. Lots of little projects in the coming weeks to repair or improve the R/T
Pulled the oil pan to replace the gasket since it is leaking. Checked the main studs torque and rod bolts, everything is still torqued to spec. Good news there at least
Last edited by DoubleD; 04-23-2018 at 12:50 PM.
Replaced my crispy 02 wires tonight, I can’t imagine that the ecu was getting good data from this mess. New wires, replaced the plug and wrapped everything in a heat shield sleeve. Hoping this never happens again.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
