Nice progress
Nice progress
Crispy O2 wires seem to be an issue on the TIII cars, 2 of the 3 I've worked on have had them repaired (in not so great fashion).
Replaced the oil pan gasket that was leaking right by the rear main seal bracket, made the rear main seal look like that was the leaking point. Hopefully it stops leaking on my coated garage floor now.
Since I had the pan off, I checked over the bottom end, verified torque on all rod and main caps, checked the baffled oil pan and buttoned it all back up. Cleaned up the clutch and reinstalled it. The TU Purple 6 puck is holding up well at 35+ PSI. Unknown whp.
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4 bolt mains, you say...
Yeah, the car has Pro-Gram 4 Bolt Mains and BC Racing H Beams, it is built to handle a lot of power.
-Update_
Tore down my Holset HE341 last night, shaft looks like it got warm a few times, lesson learned, I will no longer run a turbo oil feed filter, bad for journal bearings. Measured the ID of both bearings, one measured .432", the other one measured .445" Pretty sure I found my shaft side play culprit, that is a lot of wear. Everything else looks good. Turbine shaft surfaces feel fine and measured good. Time for a fresh rebuild and then some 30+ PSI hits again.
Last edited by DoubleD; 05-08-2018 at 12:33 PM.
Rebuilt the unobtainium NS1 crank sensor for the third time, hoping this epoxy holds up better.
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Getting a few things done every night, Turbo is rebuilt, transmission is reassembled after a few hiccups, differential is shimmed correctly. Walbro 450 installed into a new fuel pump housing is complete, I could do a write up on that if there is interest. Removed the baffles from the valve covers. The list keep getting shorter every day. Need to have the car on the road this weekend to be ready for Mopars in the Park
Finished a few things this past weekend. Fuel system has been upgraded, the original 5/16 feed is now the return, had to add a high pressure compression fitting to the line right after the filter, replaced the line rearward with 3/8 rubber hose. Replaced the complete feed line with 3/8" Rubber Hose.
Added a new fuel filter and mounts.
Bent up a line to connect the filter to the rear hose. Everything on the feed side is now 3/8 from the pump inlet to the rail.
Got a chance to pressure test the complete system, no leaks. Will need to finish up the car's re-assembly in 2 weeks, the night before my first car show.
Also applied a heat barrier to the bottom of the floor under the drivers feet, on long road trips, my feet get real warm from the exhaust. I think that’s because the downpipe is ceramic coated.
How long is that rubber hose? I thought you weren't supposed to have more than 12" of rubber line?
Ceramic coating should keep ambient temps around the coated part down. Are there other parts in that area not coated? Is the original insulation in the car?
Vic in Phoenix
dohcrt@cox.net
91 Spirit R/T x4
92 Spirit R/T x2
89 CSX
88 CSX-TIII
84 Rampage TII
97 Ram (Buzzin Half Dozen)
69 Dart GT 'Vert
It was posted awhile back about using a crank sensor from a V6 chrysler, OE # 4609009 (search rockauto for x-reference) and that it works with some minor modifications.
1994 Shadow Sedan. 2.2 N/A, A568 400,000 miles. "the science experiment"
1987 Shelby CSX #418. Long term rebuild and restore ?
Car is running and almost driving again, I have a few bugs to work out still.
Car is back on the road, working through some boost control issues right now. Made a couple of pulls the other night in 3rd, 30PSI with 23.5 degrees of timing advance and no knock, E85 is wonderful. Time to really dial in the fuel maps for driveability. I forgot how fun this car is to drive.
Working through some issues at the moment. Stock fuel pump bulkhead wiring into the module can not handle the added amperage that the Walbro 450 demands at high boost. Wires and connector got fried yesterday and the pump stopped working and left me stranded. Circuit lost connection through one of the connectors on either side of the pump module or the connector itself fail . Working on a solution to the stock connector now. Junkyard time!
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not the wrecking yard solution but,
/www.summitracing.com/int/search/part-type/fuel-pump-electric-voltage-controllers
https://www.racetronix.biz/storeitems.asp?cc=fpwh-03
https://www.racetronix.biz/product.asp?ic=rcs-028
one of these may work.
Brian
Originally Posted by turbovanman
The amperage draw of the 450 is close to double of the stock unit. The original Walbro 190 is about 9.5 amps, the 255 that was in there for many years was only 11.5 amps. The 450 is drawing about 17 amps at the same pressure. That is a lot of amperage to run through the stock connector. At my boost level, this pump is drawing very close to 20 amps. From what I have researched Honda's pump connectors are really over-sized and can handle the 450 amperage without an issue. Hoping to find something today with large wires and big connectors.
Maybe this?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...RoCwWwQAvD_BwE
Then put a 2-wire weatherpak plug outside the tank, and take a page from the GN book and run 12 gauge wire to a relay that takes power directly from the alternator power stud (with a inline fuse). They actually use a 10 gauge wire, but 12 should work for you.
http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/rac...e-harness.html