DoubleD's IROC R/T Build Log

[DoubleD]

Spent some good quality time in the garage this past weekend. I was able to get the complete eninge bay refinished.
I started with 220 grit sandpaper to sand out any deep scraches. Then I went over the whole bay and scuffed it with a red scotch brite pad.
Then cleaned everything really good with some wax and grease remover.
I then put down a coat of SEM Black high build primer
Then mutliple coats of Brillant Black Pearl, used 3 of Duplicolor Perfect Match 8oz Spray Cans
Finished it off with a coat of SprayMax 2K Clear Coat, really slick product, you must wear a respirator when using!
The clear was more heavily applied where the metal will not be coverd by something.
This was all done with rattle cans.

I let it dry over night and then started re-assembly. Scuffed up and painted the brake booster, brackets, and all clips.
Car is looking soo good and I can't wait till the exterior is painted to match the quality of the engine bay.

[glhs727]

That looks pretty darn nice for rattle cans.....

[turbovanman²]

Wow, head over here and do mine please,

[Turbo224]

Looks good. Makes me really wish I had done mine when I had the motor out last.

[DoubleD]

I was himming and hahing about doing it. I am glad I just did it. Took the better part of a day, but that was prep and paint. Turned out better than I thought. I've joked about this but the car is going to look like a borderline show car in the engine bay and a beat up, missing clear, old car on the outside for now. Till I am finally finished with all of the mechanics and then it gets a matching coat of the Brilliant Black Pearl on the exterior.

[Wastelands Warrior]

I was himming and hahing about doing it. I am glad I just did it. Took the better part of a day, but that was prep and paint. Turned out better than I thought. I've joked about this but the car is going to look like a borderline show car in the engine bay and a beat up, missing clear, old car on the outside for now. Till I am finally finished with all of the mechanics and then it gets a matching coat of the Brilliant Black Pearl on the exterior.

I love cars that are surgically sano under the hood and Road Warrior rough on the outside.

[DoubleD]

I love cars that are surgically sano under the hood and Road Warrior rough on the outside.

That certainly will describe my car this coming summer, till I am confindent in it mechanically and it get that fresh coat of paint.

[DoubleD]

Started re-assembly this past week and weekend and almost finished everything under the hood before installing the fresh motor when it is ready to go in.













Here is how it looked when I stopped last night, I may have gone a little over board on a few things here.

[DoubleD]

Forgot my new 3 bar map bracket

[DoubleD]

Tackled the interior this past week. Decided that I wanted to get the inside done completely before I started on the motor build, that and I wanted to get the pile of parts back in the car.



Tore down the inside pretty far because I needed to rebuild all of the dash mounts to the firewall. They were all broke!
No pics but I made new steel angle brackets to hold the dash up and I reinforced all of the plastic with sheet aluminum epoxied and bolted to the plastic of the dash.
Decided that since I had it town down this far, mine as well remove the heater box, clean out the box and clean both coils. Then I reassembled the box and sealed it all back up.

Got the dash all back in and added a few new modifications, After seeing what Johnny did to add cupholders to his Consulier, I decided the R/T needed a second cupholder.

I attached the bracket directly to the carpet and added a large piece of sheet metal to the back to even out the load and better support the cup holder.

I also tucked my keyless entry/ remote start better into the dash. It is barely noticeable now and all wires are intergrated into the various harnesses. It's very intergral and cleanly installed now, not a single dangling wire, the way I like it!


I finished mounting my HID ballasts and cleaning up all the wiring and making it clean and tidy, no more mess of wires. I also added a relay harness for the HID fogs that are in the future.




Here's the finished product last night, upgraded my Autometer boost gauge from 30 to 45 PSI.

I may spend more time on the interior than most, but I spend the most time inside the car and I want a nice environment for me, all the creature comforts of a newer car. I like to really drive my car and drive it hard.

[Wastelands Warrior]

U are doing a super job, D. I love reading this log threads and seeing the picts. It def inspires me. I have some cosmetic tricks in store for my Spirit R/T that should set it apart

- - - Updated - - -

That certainly will describe my car this coming summer, till I am confindent in it mechanically and it get that fresh coat of paint.

I hear that!!!

[DoubleD]

^^This. Plus it gives you the opportunity to blueprint the thing and make it work better!

Went through the oil pump last night, took it apart and checked everything. My chilton had all of the specifications and how to check them. This oil pump checked out good, I did re-index the pump vains to the rotor to the smoothest operating alignment after extensivly cleaning it. No burrs on any of the parts, spins much free-er now. Ready to go back in the motor.

Also took the time last night to remove the cover off the pickup, cleaned out all foreign material, including a valve lock, then I peened the cover back on and it is ready for the motor.

Finally I installed brass rod in my hinges for my oil pan baffle, doors move super free now!

[DoubleD]

Got the block back from the machine shop last night and added a fresh coat of paint prior to reassembly.

Primed and painted the rebuilt transmission also.



Block all ready to go.


Modified a couple of worn out rockers to make them solid for setting up the adjustable cam gears and getting the cams set correct.

[Wastelands Warrior]

What are your plans for the engine?

[DoubleD]

What are your plans for the engine?

I want an engine to handle whatever I want to throw at it down the road. I built the bottom end knowing it will support high RPM's, High Boost, and High Horsepower. Bottom End consists of:

Pro- Gram Engineering 4 bolt mains
Brian Crower SRT4 Billet H-Beam Sportsman Connecting Rods.
Wiseco .020 Pistons
Blueprinted the stock oil pump and checked all tolerances.
Full assembly balanced, all clearances set at the machine shop.
ARP Main Studs and Head Studs

[Turbo224]

Your cup holder is my favorite part of this build.

[DoubleD]

More progress last night.








Tried to get the bottom sealed up last night, but the baffled pan I built is not fitting yet, pickup is hitting on something. I have a little more fitting to do tonight, also seems like the pan relaxed after being powdercoated. It is not fitting tight, requires some force to get it to sit flat.

[turbovanman²]

Did you replace the heater core? HOpefully you did!

Cast crank?

[DoubleD]

Ready for the next step today.

[DoubleD]

More progress over the weekend.

Added a small hole to the center oil drainback in the head gasket, I modified my head and had the center drain back drilled out on my head.


Setting TDC to centerline the cams after the head is on.

Measuring the exhaust valve travel and setting cam.

Measuring the intake valve travel and setting the cam.


I can do a writeup on centerlining the T3 cams if there is interest, it was not that hard, but it was time consuming. My goal for setting the cam was 110 Exhaust and 118 Intake. My calculated values are 109.875 Exhaust and 117.875 Intake. That is as close and I am going to get. HUGE Thanks goes out to 4 l-bodies for all of his help and knowledge!

Both cams set and all timing completed.


Transmission ready to go!


As it sat when I finished Saturday night.

The Holset is not water cooled so I have no need for this fitting anymore, I installed a 1/4 NPT pipe plug into the block and sealed off the water passage.

Added fitting to check turbo drive pressure down the road.