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Thread: DoubleD's IROC R/T Build Log

  1. #201
    Boost, it's what's for dinner... Turbo Mopar Staff Aries_Turbo's Avatar
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    Re: DoubleD's IROC R/T Build Log

    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleD View Post
    The amperage draw of the 450 is close to double of the stock unit. The original Walbro 190 is about 9.5 amps, the 255 that was in there for many years was only 11.5 amps. The 450 is drawing about 17 amps at the same pressure. That is a lot of amperage to run through the stock connector. At my boost level, this pump is drawing very close to 20 amps. From what I have researched Honda's pump connectors are really over-sized and can handle the 450 amperage without an issue. Hoping to find something today with large wires and big connectors.
    the bulkhead connectors that i posted will do 14 amps per pin. there are 4 pins. so you use 2 for 12v and 2 for ground giving you 28amp continuous capacity with intermittent capacity of 40 amps.

    just in case you didnt realize that.

    that said, honda junkyard stuff is cheaper.

    Brian

    Quote Originally Posted by turbovanman
    This one is easy, I have myself to blame, I rush things, don't pay attention to gauges when I should, change to much stuff at once then expect miracles, the list is endless.

  2. #202
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    DoubleD's IROC R/T Build Log

    Went to the junkyard and found a fuel pump wiring connector. I don't know what this part is from but it had 4 14AWG wires, I used 2 wires for the positive and 2 for the negative.



    I cut the connector out of the module and glued it into mine using seal all.

    Had countless issues with the tank continuing to leak, so then I pulled it all back apart.
    I removed all of the Seal All and replaced it with Fuel Tank Repair Epoxy.



    I leak tested the finished product and nothing leaked.

    So I put it back into the car and when filling it at the station when I got over 9 gallons in the tank is started pouring out the back.

    So I dropped the tank and pulled it out of the car. I discovered that the bottom edge of the tank that seals on the gasket was all bent up. So I tried to straighten it. I leak tested it with water and the water just poured out of the bottom of the pump opening.


    So instead of spending a few hours straightening the lip, I just went to the parts store and picked up a new Spectra Fuel Tank. Put the tank in and my fuel leaks are in the past.


  3. #203
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    DoubleD's IROC R/T Build Log

    Got my catch can hooked up to my intake. I ran a 1" hose from the top of the catch can to a 1" elbow that I installed in the K and N filter.


  4. #204
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    DoubleD's IROC R/T Build Log

    Forgot to mention this as it has taken me 6 years to get working, but I have ice cold AC now, vents are blowing at 40 degrees. I have replaced the condenser, drier, and TXV valve with new parts, installed a used compressor and two different sets of AC lines. I bought a unknown brand TXV valve that was faulty. Last week I picked up a new Murray Climate Control branded one from Oreily's and it is all working as it should finally! Here is a comparison of the three valves, the one on the right is OEM Chrysler, the middle one is an uknown eBay brand and the right one is the Murray one. There are a lot of differences between the three.


    The order is flipped in this pic.

  5. #205
    Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff Force Fed Mopar's Avatar
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    Re: DoubleD's IROC R/T Build Log

    That fuel pump plug is from a GM.
    Rob M.
    '89 Turbo GTC

    2.5 TIII stroker, 568 w/ OBX and 3.77 FD

  6. #206
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    Re: DoubleD's IROC R/T Build Log

    Upgraded the coolant overflow tank from 400 mL to 800mL, old tank was not large enough.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  7. #207
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    DoubleD's IROC R/T Build Log

    Installed an EGT Probe and temporarily mounted the gauge in my car last night. Getting ready for a weekend of fun and spirited driving at Powercruise!



    Also worked on my E85 Tune last night, AFR's are right around 11.8-12.1 Gas Scale. I upped the base pressure from 45 to 50 PSI. I pulled a ton of fuel out of the low boost full throttle map and the car became a lot more responsive. AFR's in low boost/ low vacuum around 2-5000 rpm are right around 13.7-14.5 now and then go richer as the boost pressure increases. Turbo really woke up with this and spools quicker now. I got the boost based on vehicle speed dialed in a little better now as well.

  8. #208
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    Re: DoubleD's IROC R/T Build Log

    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleD View Post

    Also worked on my E85 Tune last night, AFR's are right around 11.8-12.1 Gas Scale. I upped the base pressure from 45 to 50 PSI. I pulled a ton of fuel out of the low boost full throttle map and the car became a lot more responsive. AFR's in low boost/ low vacuum around 2-5000 rpm are right around 13.7-14.5 now and then go richer as the boost pressure increases. Turbo really woke up with this and spools quicker now. I got the boost based on vehicle speed dialed in a little better now as well.
    I don't run E85, but I do know that you need almost double the fuel to make it work correctly, so having AFR's in the 11-12 range is LEAN is it not? I know that we all talk in AFR, but Lambda is a more accurate way of actually talking. Maybe tune by that?

  9. #209
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    Re: DoubleD's IROC R/T Build Log

    Quote Originally Posted by Reaper1 View Post
    I don't run E85, but I do know that you need almost double the fuel to make it work correctly
    No. You'll need about 30-40% more volume of E85 than gasoline. WOT in the 11.8-12.1 range is good.

  10. #210
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    Re: DoubleD's IROC R/T Build Log

    My innovate gauge is a lambda sensor. It is going to make its calculations using lambda and then it converts that data to whatever scale is requested. So lambda is 1.00 no matter what fuel is used. I am choosing to use the gas scale to tune with as I am most familiar with it. I plan to switch to lambda eventually, but I need to get more comfortable with it first.


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  11. #211
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    Re: DoubleD's IROC R/T Build Log

    Had a great weekend at Powercruise at Brainerd International Raceway. Started the event out on Friday with some good sessions. Can was running great, car was set at 33 pounds of boost, raced plenty of cars all day. Humbled quite a few people with the Turbo Dodge. No issues on Friday, did 2 track sessions between rain storms. Tried to up the boost in the second session, but couldn't get the car over 34PSI. Coolant temps were good, got the car up to 130-135 on the straight away comfortably.
    Saturday morning took the car out in the first session, can started running lean (13.0-13.5) under WOT boost pulls. Finished up that morning session and went back and added some fuel to the tune and then things went downhill. Got the car out onto the track for the second session, first time I touch the throttle it goes way lean. Anytime I give it more than a little gas, it goes super lean, like 16-19:1. I limp the car around one lap, thankfully I was towards the rear so I didn't have to deal with high speed traffic. I get the car back to my camp site, pop the hood, and the fuel pressure gauge reads 20 PSI, I am even shocked that the car ran and idled at 20 PSI. So I crank the fuel pressure regulator in and the gauge doesn't move. So I took apart the FPR and found nothing wrong. Next I pull the return line off the FPR and stick it in a gas can and process to drain the fuel tank. Right before it started acting up, I just filled it at the gas station, just my luck. So I get the tank down to E, then we pull the tank and fuel filter, I replace the fuel filter thinking it is clogged, but the fuel pressure is still very low. So at this point the problem has to be in the tank. We drop the tank right at our campsite, use the trailer as makeshift ramps/ lift. Once the tank is out of the car and I pull the fuel pump module, I find the problem. The hose clamp that was on my bulkhead to hose slipped off, the hose was still on the fitting, but it could not support the pressure levels needed. So I cranked down that clamp and pulled the pump further apart and tightened down the clamp on the fuel pump to hose as well. I reassembled everything and fuel pressure was back to normal. I did some fine tuning on the base pressure, got it back to 50PSI. I took the car out on the street for some street tuning and it was running 33PSI strong.
    Sunday morning came and I got the car out on the morning session. Car ran great, raced a WRX up to 140+ MPH, it was a good run and once I hit 4th and traction was no longer an issue, I walked away from him. Only issue I had was the car was running rich now. I was seeing AFR's of 9.5-10.0, but after the issues the day before, I was happy to see rich conditions. I finished up the event and hopped in my car and cranked the AC on high and headed home. Car survived the weekend.
    On a side note, I got about 25MPG on the way up with the windows down and no AC, I just filled my car up yesterday and I calculated that I got 14MPG with the AC on, on the way home. Fuel economy with the AC on was not good. I will mention that all driving was done on E85. This car is on E85 all the time now.

  12. #212
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    Re: DoubleD's IROC R/T Build Log

    Did a boost leak test on the car last night and when I put over 30PSI into the system, the BOV starts to immediately leak. I can not get the car to hold over 30 PSI. There is no logical reason for the BOV to leak. I am rocking an old school Apexi Twin Chamber. I am going to take it apart tonight and see what is the problem. The BOV has been in the car for at least 8 years now. Also discovered that the BOV spring pre-load is not set correct, someone cranked down the pre-load screw, so my car is getting compressor surge till about 5 PSI and then the pressure in the system overcomes the pre-load on the spring, this is bad for my Holset.

  13. #213
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    DoubleD's IROC R/T Build Log

    Pulled apart the Apexi Twin Chamber BOV today, found out there are no seals, the metal puck just rests on a machined surface, there is no real sealing surface. Secondly the BOV only has machined brass and aluminum, there are no rubber seals. I put the BOV back together still opens up at 30PSI on the boost leak test. I reset the pre-load on the spring, got rid of the compressor surge. Car still makes over 30PSI up top. I will be putting in a new BOV next year.

    Also picked up this gem earlier in the week. Starting 2019 plans already. Stepping up to a HE351.

  14. #214
    Slugmobile & MeanMini Caretaker Turbo Mopar Contributor wheming's Avatar
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    Re: DoubleD's IROC R/T Build Log

    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleD View Post
    Pulled apart the Apexi Twin Chamber BOV today, found out there are no seals, the metal puck just rests on a machined surface, there is no real sealing surface. Secondly the BOV only has machined brass and aluminum, there are no rubber seals. I put the BOV back together still opens up at 30PSI on the boost leak test. I reset the pre-load on the spring, got rid of the compressor surge. Car still makes over 30PSI up top. I will be putting in a new BOV next year.

    Also picked up this gem earlier in the week. Starting 2019 plans already. Stepping up to a HE351.
    Check out the Synapse BOV, there's the Synchronic, and there is a more compact one. Holds 120psi.
    Wayne H.

    '91 Dodge Spirit ES 2.5L turbo 5spd
    '05 PT GT 2.4T HO autostick (RIP)
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    '89 Dodge Caravan SE 2.5L turbo auto, "Mean Mini" yes, Gus' Mean Mini! (Current best 11.699 @ 114.43 mph! - Oct 15th, 2022 Cecil County Dragway, MD)
    MeanMini dragracing videos: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...URZLB1RxGYF6vw
    and other cars, trucks and motorcycles
    https://www.youtube.com/user/SlugmobileMeanMini

  15. #215
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    Re: DoubleD's IROC R/T Build Log

    google
    agency power blow off valves - rated up to 50#'s but spendy , though about half what they were a few years ago in the link below

    just one quick example if the link works - they do universal and application specific

    http://www.gotboostinc.com/ap-gh-150...wrx-08-14.html

  16. #216
    boostaholic
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    Re: DoubleD's IROC R/T Build Log

    I am looking at the Synapse and the Tial Q. My buddy has the Tial Q on his Spirit R/T and it held over 50PSI before it blew the tester off of the coupler. I will also take a look at Agency, right now I am leaning towards the Tial.

  17. #217
    Hybrid booster
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    Re: DoubleD's IROC R/T Build Log

    How much power do you think you will be making once you switch to the HE351?

  18. #218
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor Shadow's Avatar
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    Re: DoubleD's IROC R/T Build Log

    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleD View Post
    Pulled apart the Apexi Twin Chamber BOV today, found out there are no seals, the metal puck just rests on a machined surface, there is no real sealing surface. Secondly the BOV only has machined brass and aluminum, there are no rubber seals. I put the BOV back together still opens up at 30PSI on the boost leak test. I reset the pre-load on the spring, got rid of the compressor surge. Car still makes over 30PSI up top. I will be putting in a new BOV next year.

    Also picked up this gem earlier in the week. Starting 2019 plans already. Stepping up to a HE351.

    Robert Mclellan
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wambNdfnu5M
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    Worlds fastest 8v MTX Shelby Charger
    Manitoba's Fastest 4cyl!
    8 valve, No Nitrous!
    New clutch combo is the SH!T!

  19. #219
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    Re: DoubleD's IROC R/T Build Log

    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleD View Post
    Pulled apart the Apexi Twin Chamber BOV today, found out there are no seals, the metal puck just rests on a machined surface, there is no real sealing surface. Secondly the BOV only has machined brass and aluminum, there are no rubber seals. I put the BOV back together still opens up at 30PSI on the boost leak test. I reset the pre-load on the spring, got rid of the compressor surge. Car still makes over 30PSI up top. I will be putting in a new BOV next year.

    Also picked up this gem earlier in the week. Starting 2019 plans already. Stepping up to a HE351.
    The HE351 is awesome in my dad's Spirit! He runs it internally gated and it sounds like a laser gun. He is definitely making around 400whp around 7000 rpm on a colder day, and that's just on 20psi computer from FWDp

    Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

  20. #220
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    Re: DoubleD's IROC R/T Build Log

    Quote Originally Posted by Wastelands Warrior View Post
    How much power do you think you will be making once you switch to the HE351?
    I expect to be making over 500 wheel with the swap to the HE351 and going to LWP stage 1 cams next summer. My 120lb/ hr injectors and most likely my clutch are my limiting factors now.Not sure what a TU Purple plate/ 6 puck ceramic can hold. I’ve heard rumors of them holding close to 600 wheel though.


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