Retorqued, meaning they are backing out again? Are these used or new? Sounds like they may be stretching, maybe?
Retorqued, meaning they are backing out again? Are these used or new? Sounds like they may be stretching, maybe?
[SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]
Re torqued as in what I was recommended to do, I set them at 95 and then heat cycled the car a few times, drove it 60 miles, then checked the torque and cranked them up to 100 ft lbs. this is what I was recommended to do by a highly regarded TIII engine builder.
All the nuts were at the exact same torque, and everything is good now.
PHEW! Glad that's all the update you've got. You coming to SDAC with the car? It will make it, trust me.
[SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]
A/C compressor is all painted up and ready to be recharged tomorrow. Hoping my new condenser works good!
I will not be making it to SDAC this year, I have yet to make it and this year it is too far for me. Maybe next year!
Bugs are finally getting worked out. Got the A/C bugs worked out last night, would only work intermittently, found out the plug and wires for the high pressure switch were bad so I replaced the wires and switch with a spare I cut out of a car at the junkyard. Car had ICE cold A/C now!
I have about 500 miles on the car now so I did my first few low boost WOT pulls, car pulls nice and smooth and even with the OBX and sticky street tires, it spun in the top of first and second gear. Third gear pulls nice and smooth, all this is at 20 psi. Finally beginning to enjoy why I built the motor now. I hope my issues are behind me now.
After some spirited runs, the only smell I was getting was the baking in smell of the ceramic coating, no burning oil or coolant. I am much happier now!
~Tyler Larsen~Salt Lake City~
-92 Daytona R/T (T3/T4 Hybrid, Quaife, etc...)
-86 Jeep Grand Wagoneer Woody (winter beast)
-01 Audi TT Quattro (daily driver)
-71 Plymouth Cuda 440-6pk tribute
Check out my Homepage
Yeah, it's holset powered on the stock wastegate can. Last year it was 18 psi so I'm thinking I have more preload on the actuator arm this year after full rebuild. High boost is yet to be determined, but should be in excess of 35psi
This is build is heavily influenced by what Jackson has learned, I'm trying a few of his newer ideas on here. I've consulted Jackson many times building this up. I'm curious what power this set up is capable of on a good tune with e85 and I intend to find out!
I've been having issues with my crankcase venting. Here is my current set up:
This thing has been filling up with oil and about every few days I have to drain it, so I did a little experimenting tonight, I removed the catch can all together and replaced it with a large plastic juice bottle, I cut holes and put all my vent lines into it, 3 5/8 hoses. Looked like this:
.
I did a bunch of spirited driving last night with plenty of high revs and 20 psi. I checked under the hood a few times and other than oil mist and vapor, the bottle was empty of oil. So my conclusion is I do not have enough venting on the current set up, thinking I need to build a custom can/box with a few high flow filters on top. Glad I figured out why my catch can was filling up!
Was out doing some testing the other night, Check Engine light comes on, pull a code for low battery voltage. My alternator was barely putting out 12.5v. This was a re-manufactured one that I picked up last year because I thought mine was bad. Anyways swap back in the "bad" alternator, fire it up and voltage goes right to 13.6V. Another vote for avoiding re-manned alternators. Try and find a good OEM one if yours goes bad.
On another note, tuning is going well, I have the car responding well, good WOT and transient fuel. Need to pull a little timing out of the WOT full boost maps and see if it stops retarding timing. Car is pulling really good now and no oil at all in the makeshift catch can, just mist. Need to build something more permanent and aesthetically pleasing next.
Installed a few upgrades tonight.
Swapped the 3 bar for a 4 bar map sensor.
Swapped out the 72's for 110lb/hr fuel injectors.
Re tuning the car using mptune on 93 premium fuel next.
Did an oil change last night and switched to synthetic oil now since beak in is complete.
Onto the next step now..
Upgraded my cooling system. I have been having issues all summer keeping this car cool and I had the option to re-core my stock one or replace it.
I chose a Griffin 1-26181-XS, I also added a Ebay coolant overflow tank since the stock one wont work anymore
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GRI-1-26181-XS
This style radiator has been used a couple of times, but I went with a slightly narrower one since I wanted to maintain my intercooler piping and Air conditioning.
I used Griffin's Radiator mounting brackets and tweaked them.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GRI-KD-00050
I utilized the stock fan and shroud with a couple of aluminum extensions.
Here is a comparison of the two radiators.
First mock up of the radiator to see if it will fit.
Modifications made to the shroud to make it fit and seal off the back of the radiator, I made the extensions out of sheet aluminum and riveted them to the stock shroud. I had to notch out the stock shroud to clear the new coolant outlet that is higher up than the original. Shroud is held in place by the same brackets that hold the radiator.
Final assembly with everything installed back in.
Last edited by DoubleD; 10-14-2015 at 10:49 AM.
Modified my gauge pods by cutting about 1/2" off the top and sanding some of the thickness away, I can now see my check engine light and the top revs of my tach clearly.
Kick --- build!
A local friend and I have Spirit R/Ts that we are building up. His is already built and much more powerful than mine will be though. I had a set of valve covers modified with 8an bungs to facilitate a catch can for proper venting, but so far he has left them capped off and just runs the stock PCV setup. No problems so far. I'm still trying to figure out what route to take with my lowly 250-300 HP build.
Planned on charging the A/C at a friends garage last night, opened the hood and found the top o-ring on cylinder 3 was leaking , o-ring popped out of the fuel rail end.
Pulled the rail, installed a different O-ring, tightened everything back down, no more fuel leaks.
Pulled the Innovate O2 sensor out and re-calibrated it, gauge was acting up, got to remember to do that once a year or when it goes haywire.
Then proceeded to tear down the A/C lines and blow out the evaporator, condenser, compressor, and lines looking for a blockage. No restrictions found so I installed new gaskets and pulled the system down, then recharged the system, Ice cold air so far!
Took a coworker out in the car on lunch, before our drive I added another 5% to the WGDC and upped the boost target to 33PSI. Made a couple of highway pulls and the car is blowing the front tires away above 4000 RPM in third now.
I am getting to a good point with the car now running on E85, idles like stock, drive ability is great, more responsive than stock (2 degrees advanced on the cruising portion of the ignition map and 21 degrees advanced above 30 PSI, makes 30+ PSI pulls and then I can slow back down, roll up the windows and cruise with the A/C on.
No obnoxious drone, I can drop gears, lay into the throttle and it just goes now.
Awesome progress, I wish mine was running that well!
~Tyler Larsen~Salt Lake City~
-92 Daytona R/T (T3/T4 Hybrid, Quaife, etc...)
-86 Jeep Grand Wagoneer Woody (winter beast)
-01 Audi TT Quattro (daily driver)
-71 Plymouth Cuda 440-6pk tribute
Check out my Homepage