A write-up on centerlining the cams would be awesome. When I pull my R/T out later this year I will be installing my adjustable cam gears.
A write-up on centerlining the cams would be awesome. When I pull my R/T out later this year I will be installing my adjustable cam gears.
~Tyler Larsen~Salt Lake City~
-92 Daytona R/T (T3/T4 Hybrid, Quaife, etc...)
-86 Jeep Grand Wagoneer Woody (winter beast)
-01 Audi TT Quattro (daily driver)
-71 Plymouth Cuda 440-6pk tribute
Check out my Homepage
Tyler, there are many threads on it, I even had a KC article, its super easy on the TIII's. I'll try to dig it up if its still around,
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
Still reading & taking notes.. nice work & great build!
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
Little unorthodox, but this is the way I've installed my motor a couple of times.
Drivetrain back in there installed.
I don't have a lift, so I've used a jack and a custom wooden cradle to jack the motor up and then I do the trans separately. Never easy, but it's all I have to work with. Looks good, keep going!
[SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]
That's the way I do it, but I have a hoist,
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
If I remember right they went in from the bottom on the assembly line. I think they come out easier and go in easier that way too. I usually just lift the car up, slide the engine under and sit the car down on it!
The motor definitely is installed through the bottom. Lining up the transmission mount first, then the passenger side one, then the front and finally the rear. Pretty easy to do and looks like the proper way to
Install the engine.
Made some progress last night.
More progress...
Here is how I set up my pcv system.
Some assembly photos.
So close to being finished, Mopars in the Park or bust tomorrow!
Looks good! From the pictures it looks like you have plugged the factory pvc nipple on the block and drilled a new one where the 8V dist hole would have been. Am I seeing this correctly, and is there a reason you've set it up like this?
~Tyler Larsen~Salt Lake City~
-92 Daytona R/T (T3/T4 Hybrid, Quaife, etc...)
-86 Jeep Grand Wagoneer Woody (winter beast)
-01 Audi TT Quattro (daily driver)
-71 Plymouth Cuda 440-6pk tribute
Check out my Homepage
Been driving the car for a couple of weeks now working out all of the bugs, there has been a lot of bugs for this build.
I have about 350 miles on the new engine and it is running great. After stumbling through issues with timing, fuel, leaks, almost wrecking my built motor with low oil pressure, things seem to be smoothing out. There is still a tick out of one of the lifters that needs to be addressed. I swapped back in my FWD Stage 5 ECU chip and +40 injectors for break in, this tune is more stable than the ones I have built so far.
One big note I have to make is with the exhaust work I did, this Holset spools so much faster now, It's making 8-10 psi at 1/4 throttle, around 3000 rpm. I can wait till I get more miles on it and really start laying into the turbo.
I finished up under the hood mechanically last night and added my re-coated catch can.
It looks fantastic! When you get it broke in, swing by my house and give me a ride! (Oh. and sorry about the rain this evening. I washed 4 of my cars today. LOL)
Bob Doherty..... mnsdac.com
Coon Rapids, MN
'90 Chysler TC
'87 Shelby GLHS #784
'87 Shelby GLHS #654
'87 Shelby Charger
'89 Daytona Shelby TII T-Top
'89 Lebaron Convert TII
'89 Lebaron Convert TI auto
SDAC Member.expires 05/2016.MNSDAC Vice President
And the fun continued last night again, but I did dodge a bullet.
Was putting miles on the car yesterday and I noticed that I had to add coolant twice. So I got it home and topped off the coolant and let it run, I
Noticed white smoke coloring out the tailpipe. And once the thermostat opened up the coolant went down quickly and never came back, it was bubbling like crazy. After, I looked for leaks, nothing noticeable. Then I pulled the plugs and cylinder 4 was wet. Found out where the coolant was going and burning up.
So then today I siphoned out a gallon of coolant, pulled the valve covers and then loosened the head studs. I discovered one of the head studs had hard threads in one area which would cause the torque value to be wrong, I fixed that, re torqued all of the studs, fired up the car. At this point I let it warm up, stopped smoking all together. I got a few miles on it tonight with zero issues.
Also the valve train stopped making noise, the injectors are now the loudest part.
Sounds like it's been an adventure!
~Tyler Larsen~Salt Lake City~
-92 Daytona R/T (T3/T4 Hybrid, Quaife, etc...)
-86 Jeep Grand Wagoneer Woody (winter beast)
-01 Audi TT Quattro (daily driver)
-71 Plymouth Cuda 440-6pk tribute
Check out my Homepage
It's been full of all kinds of adventures. Last night after fixing the coolant issue, I discovered my drivers floor has coolant under the carpet. So next up is to clean all the coolant up, shampoo the carpet to get the antifreeze out, then watch for any other leaks.
I really hope the adventures start calming down, working out the bugs can get exhausting.
I cleaned up all of the carpet as best as I could. Started with stain pre-treat and a scrubbing then vacuumed up, then liquid detergent (tide) and scrubbing and vacuum. Then onto carpet cleaner, scrubbing and then vacuum up. I finished up with 3 separate applications of just water and scrubbing and then vacuuming it up. I hope at this point the coolant is diluted as much as possible and sucked up as much water as I can get. I then wiped it all down with towels to try and suck the last of it out.
Onto how did this coolant end up in my interior, I sucked a gallon of coolant out the the cooling system and then pulled the lines off the heater core. I figured the heater core was bad so I then ran some extra hose i had to each side of the heater core. I then plugged one end and hooked up my vacuum pump to the other, I brought the heater core down to 25 in hg and let it sit for 30 mins, the gauge did not move.
I then replaced the vacuum pump with a presta valve and hooked up my bike pump. I put 20 psi in the heater core and it help that fine for 30 mins also. I believe the heater core is good to go, but where did the coolant come from?
My theory is the spring clamps I was using for the heater core lines are bad and are not holding tension anymore. So, when I was having coolant leaking into the cylinder, I was also having cylinder pressures entering the heater core lines, the stock clamp could not sustain the excess pressure and let the coolant pass by, this higher pressure coolant hot straight at the firewall, it then went past the firewall seal and leaked down the interior side of the firewall and onto the drivers floor.
For extra assurance, I rented a coolant pressure tester and tested the complete system, the system held 20 psi for 30 mins. I then tested the cap and it released pressure at 15-16 psi. I am now thinking my cooling system is tested and good, but there is still doubt in the back of my mind.
Re-torqued the head studs, everything looks good.
I'm getting tired of seeing this view of my engine bay..