Water pump Water pump Water pump

[nvysion]

Hi,

I would like to know if there is a simple way to know if the water pump should be replaced ?
I'm going to change the timing belt and so it would be best to change the pump at the same time.
However the pump works fine and it is not easy to find a new one (see below), chrysler doesn't sell them anymore in France.
I have been told that the pump is good until some water escapes from the small hole in the pump housing.

My shadow is a 89 model and I bought two pumps from CB engines.
But althought they fit perfectly on the water pump housing, I can't use the round smooth "sprocket" (don't know the good word for it) because the 3 holes have not the same spacing as the one required for these pumps.
So what kind of water pump do I need ?
Does someone have (and could sell me) a "sprocket" for these kind of pumps ?

Thanks for your help
Louis

[raccoon]

the water pump can be changed when it starts to fail, you'll have coolant start dripping out the weep hole. i wouldnt change it based on mileage.

are you having cooling problems? or leaks?

its best to change the water pump at the same time if it runs on the same belt as the timing. these cars have a separate belt. its a non interference engine also. no worries.

[nvysion]

Thanks
At this time no leaks but since I have changer the radiator for a TII one, the water temperature is above the middle of the gauge.
I have failed trying to remove the air without removing the plug on the top of the thermostat housing.
I have drilled a little hole at 12oclock on the thermostat to help but it seems that it is not enough

[4 l-bodies]

Louis,
The 88-89 years was sort of transition years for many components on the 2.2/2.5 motors. You apparently have a early odd style CB water pump pulley. Chrysler made a change after realizing that some people were actually bolting on the wrong (grooved) pulley on the common blocks, and they were spinning them clockwise, when they should have been turning CCW. Early blocks waterpumps spun CW, Common blocks spun CCW. What you really should do IMO, is simply find the super common (in US) later smooth water pump pulley and get rid of that odd sized smooth pulley. As you have found, almost all the later aftermarket pumps will have different style bolt pattern (like what you found on the aftermarket waterpump). See enclosed pic. of early block, odd sized early CB waterpump, and std. later CB pump. I'm guessing your pulley and original waterpump is like the one in the center photo?
I'm sure many of us could send you a later style pulley, but shipping to France would not be very cost effective. Any 90+ 2.2/2.5 Chrysler cars should have the correct pulley you are looking for.
Todd

Hi,

I would like to know if there is a simple way to know if the water pump should be replaced ?
I'm going to change the timing belt and so it would be best to change the pump at the same time.
However the pump works fine and it is not easy to find a new one (see below), chrysler doesn't sell them anymore in France.
I have been told that the pump is good until some water escapes from the small hole in the pump housing.

My shadow is a 89 model and I bought two pumps from CB engines.
But althought they fit perfectly on the water pump housing, I can't use the round smooth "sprocket" (don't know the good word for it) because the 3 holes have not the same spacing as the one required for these pumps.
So what kind of water pump do I need ?
Does someone have (and could sell me) a "sprocket" for these kind of pumps ?

Thanks for your help
Louis

[turbovanman²]

If your overheating or puking out coolant, its possible you damaged the head gasket, they are common to go if original as they have a finite life span.

[nvysion]

Thank you very much for your answers

Todds
You are completely right, I have the one in the middle and the new pumps I have bought are the right one
I have bought head and turbo from US, so paying for a pulley doesn't matter for me, as long as I can't find the same part in france.
My main problem is to find someone who would be glad to sell one for me.

Turbovannam
How can I know if the head gasket is damaged ?
There is no oil inside the water and no white smoke on the exhaust.
Here the story :
I have changed the the radiator for a TII one with intercooler and added a trans cooler because the original one was inside the radiator.
However I didn't have the right lower nose and had to use the former one which was longer and so was pinched.
The car was little overheating (just above the middle) and when I came back home I put the correct one.
Because I couldn't remove the water plug, when the fan ran, there were a lot of buble esacping from the water tank and a lot of water too.
I added more water but same thing happened again
So I put the car on a high slope the engine up until the fan run
Now the car runs fine but when I let the car at iddle for a long time I still hear some bubbles like if the water was boiling.
I forgot to say that I put an underdrive pulley at the same time as I have changed the radiator, so the pump should run slower.

I really hope that the gasket is not damage, but how can I know if my problem comes from air inside the engine, gasket or underdrive pulley ?

Louis

[turbovanman²]

I would let it run, rad cap off, and just watch the coolant level. With coolant, it shouldn't over heat but if it keeps puking coolant out and you've drilled the bleed hole with a new thermostat, then either the rad is plugged-you didn't say if it was a new rad, thermostat is bad or the gasket is starting to go. If you drive and the heater stops working over time, then the gasket is leaking air into the cooling system causing air pockets.

[4 l-bodies]

Louis,
If you want me to send you a pulley, I can do that. I probably have at least half a dozen of them lying around. Send me your mailing address by PM and I can get you a shipping quote. It should easily fit in a flat rate small package by USPS. Or let me know if you have a preference of other carriers. Fed Ex, UPS, etc.
Todd

[nvysion]

Thanks both of you for your great help
PM is on the way

[nvysion]

I took the car today : it is a 89 shadow with a 2.5 turbo mitsu and auto trans.
I let the car run at iddle for about 4 minutes and then used it
At the beginning when I accelerate the water temperature (as seen on the gauge) was increasing and then decreased immediately when I decelerated.
Because my rpm gauge freezes when I do this, that made me think that the water temerature gauge is dead, unless this can be explained by some gas escaping into the water under boost ?
later this didn't happened anymore, the temperature stayed a little more than in the middle of the gauge even if I ran up to 85mph.
When I drived slowy (40 mph) the temperature decreased a little and stayed in the left side.

Then I went to my higly slope (perhaps 20°), while the engine still running I oppened carefully the radiator tank
The water level was good and no bubbles could be seen.
Then the fan ran and all was fine.
About 1 minute after the fan stopped, the water level increased very fast and the water was escaping from the radiator (radiator still opened) like if the water was boiling. The water was not dirty (no oil inside) and looked like new (green color)
I don't know why the fan didn't run again.

I have added about 0.5L after to have the level good.

The radiator is not new, I have washed it inside with some water before using it but I don't know if it is plugged or not
The only thing I can say is that it looks nice from the outside and that the water noses were hot.

[nvysion]

Any idea for my problem ?

Todd have you received my email ?

Louis

[4 l-bodies]

Louis,
No PM or emails unless they went directly into spam folder. Try sending it again. Just make sure there is a subject line.
Todd