Anyone know how to get my 1 peice exhaust into my daytona without cutting anything? I have a lowering kit that has to go in (shocks and struts) what do I take apart to do this? And once I have them out how hard is it to but the rear end with the big brakes on them into the car? I really didn't want to put the lowering kit in the car until I had the motor all back together(and in the car for that matter)
Pretty easy. Since you are changing out the rear axle anyway, that would be the only thing in your way from replacing the exhaust as a 1 piece unit.
Mike Marra
1986 Plymouth Horizon GLMF "The Contraption" < entertaining sponsorship offers
Project Log:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?69708-The-Contraption-2013-14&highlight=
So what exactly do I need to do for the lowering kit? And big brakes
Check out the Suspension and Brake sections. There is alot of info about this stuff.
Mike Marra
1986 Plymouth Horizon GLMF "The Contraption" < entertaining sponsorship offers
Project Log:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?69708-The-Contraption-2013-14&highlight=
A suggestion. Buy a pair of header flanges (if you have 3 inch pipe then 3 inch) and a gasket and bolts. Cut your pipe just before it goes up over the axle. Weld on the flanges and weld the bolt heads on the 'back' flange so they point forward. Taking off the exhaust for any future work (if that will be required)will be greatly simplified.
Better are the Flowmaster kit's, ball and cup like OE or use band type clamps.Originally Posted by thx138
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS!12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
Band clamps ftw
Pete Faggella 03 PT Cruiser, 2.4L N/A 5 speed. Daily driver. All stock with baby moon wheels. 85 LeBaron 2.2TBI auto. Hoped I'd see a difference with bumped compression, but I didn't. Still slow. "Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming "Wow! What a Ride!'"
ball and cup are awsome. I like them better then V-band clamps now. Cheaper, and they seem to seal better with a dab of copper RTV. Exhaust will come apart every time. Even with band clamps it can be hard to slide out the pipe if there is any rust going on.
What is rust?
[SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]
Well I just bought some 2.5" I'd pip I'm goin to cut the exhaust in half and weld the on one side and then just use one of them crappy exhaust clamps on the other. (I'm already way over budget and the motor isn't even in yet) that should be my solution I just wanted to make sure there wasn't some magical trick to get it in there :P on that diagram I don't really get what I'm putting the jackstands under yet? To me there inst anything there it's just the body
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