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Thread: X-Prize Daytona

  1. #1
    Hybrid booster
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    X-Prize Daytona

    I was involved with the Progressive Automotive X-Prize 100 MPGe (“e” is for “equivalent”, as many entries were 100% electric) Fuel Economy Race with a 2008 Hyundai Sonata, entry #20 (Liberty Motors Group) that got an unofficial best of 83 mpg (175% increase over stock 30 mpg highway numbers) and an official best of 42 mpg at the Roush Labs in Livonia, Michigan (40% increase over stock).


    Being the Turbo Mopar head that I am, I couldn’t resist taking what I learned and applying it to a TM car. So, here is the 1985 Daytona Turbo Z that I’m transforming into what I expect to be about a 70 mpg, 13 second phenomenon. The starting point is a 176k mile, 99.8% rust-free cream puff with lots of maintenance records.


    The stock engine wasn’t worth saving, so I’m using a tight ’86 block I had laying around. (Head in the picture is just for mock-up work.)


    The intake is a mildly ported (compared to other versions out there) 1-piece with heavy port-biasing to augment the head work, and a 46 mm TB (which should easily hit the stated goals). It features Tomco injectors that deliver a finer micron sized fuel spray.


    The intake and valve cover are powder coated black wrinkle finish with yellow fins and letters. The head will have all my important tricks (pics and details later, it’s at the machine shop). The car itself will feature a whole host of industry standard, as well as unique and exclusive technologies. For the standard fare, it sports a medium sized FMIC…


    …As well as a fresh Garrett turbo plumbing the TU Stainless Line Kit and a 2.5” SV…


    …Mounted to a ported stocker…




    …Feeding a stock exhaust system off my ’93 IROC R/T, minus the muffler, which is aftermarket.


    On a side note, the exhaust manifold came on the car. I bought the Z from a young fellow in southern NJ. He hadn’t had it all that long. When I pulled the engine apart I thought the exhaust manifold looked strikingly familiar. The more I examined it, the more it looked like one I ported for TU. Sure enough, my records prove that it was indeed one of mine!

    More to come shortly.

    Mike

  2. #2
    boostaholic
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    Re: X-Prize Daytona

    You sir, have my attention.

  3. #3
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    Re: X-Prize Daytona

    for sure! thats great mike, lots of info please.
    1988 Lancer Shelby 2.2TII 1989 Shadow ES 2.5TI 1992 Lebaron Sedan 3.0Auto 1993 Acclaim 2.5TI-A520 Hoard parts now!

  4. #4

    Re: X-Prize Daytona

    Cordes is probably sitting with a bag of popcorn in front of his monitor clicking refresh to see your next entry. This will be a religious experience for him if you accomplish this. Also, subscribed.
    [SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]

  5. #5
    turbo addict Murphy's Avatar
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    Re: X-Prize Daytona

    So what are those 2 blue canisters on the head for? Some sort of water or hydrogen injection?
    95 spirit 3.0/543 15.0@91 N/A, 14.5@96 on a 50 shot RIP 87 shelby Z - project car, maybe I can drive it this year 91 spirit - roll it, chop the top, do some burnouts! RIP

  6. #6
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    Re: X-Prize Daytona

    As for some of the X-Prize type of stuff, the PCV system has been radically modified. I’m using a PCV elbow on the valve cover from an early log set-up angled differently.




    That hose runs to a “T” where it feeds 2 oil separators. The one has an aftermarket PCV valve (steel instead of plastic), and the other runs through a low-pressure differential check valve. The check valve side will go to the turbo inlet with a venturi draft fitting, while the other goes to…


    …One of my inventions I call the Statifyer. In the above picture you can see an aluminum block, powder coated with a gold translucent glaze. On what is the top of the block in the picture are 3 fittings. The 2 larger fittings feed hot engine coolant through passages that heat the block itself. The smaller one is the PCV gas inlet. Internally there is a cone rough-milled, such that the PCV gasses enter the block at the tangent of the base of the cone (wishing you paid more attention in geometry class?), and exits the port to the right at the apex of the cone. In the process, any aerosols (liquids) will tend to vaporize due to the vortex action (think “tornados”), textured interior, the change of direction through the process, and the heated body. To the left you see a solenoid and a regulator. I designed and build a custom controller that will allow minute amounts of fuel to be sprayed into the PCV charge at the appropriate time, thus making it more combustible. No fuel until it warms up, and only in the “cruise” range. There is an injector nozzle mounted at the center of the base of the cone inside that the solenoid feeds. In all, this gizmo has proven quite impressive on other vehicles for improving fuel economy, and perhaps more importantly, part-throttle power.

    The objective of this radical PCV system is in part to put a vacuum on the crankcase. Engine power is due to a pressure differential between the top of the piston and the bottom. To make more power, increase the pressure on the top of the piston, or reduce the pressure on the bottom. Cruise conditions create a modest vacuum on the crankcase that improves part-throttle power, virtually eliminates oil leaks (sucks air in where oil would otherwise leak out), and reduces contaminants in the oil (reduces their boiling point so they vaporize off more readily). The addition of the Stratifyer delivers a PCV charge that actually improves combustion instead of dragging it down.

    More later.

    Mike

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    Re: X-Prize Daytona

    Subscribed!

  8. #8
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor 2.216VTurbo's Avatar
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    Re: X-Prize Daytona

    Interesting Are you considering low friction components in the motor to complement what you are creating? Maybe some lower tension valve springs(from an NA motor) lightweight under drive pullies, narrowed bearings if you are really reaching(dunno about that one,read about it in some engine masters book written during the OPEC crissis in the 70's). What about shedding weight from the car, is that allowed?

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  9. #9
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor zin's Avatar
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    Re: X-Prize Daytona

    I like the idea of recovering all those energy rich hydrocarbons from the PCV and pulling some vacuum as well, I've been hesitant to try it this way myself(recycling the blow-by/oil vapor), due to the concern that the oil vapor might bring on detonation due to the oil bringing down the octane of the fuel... But it looks like you're addressing that by adding some fresh fuel and vaporizing the whole lot with the coolant heat...

    I'm assuming the two catch cans are there to act as an accumulator to "save-up" the hydrocarbons from when things are too cold? Another idea might be to port the vapor canister into the mix to recover and introduce them when you feel it could do the most good?

    All and all a very interesting and innovative project!

    Mike
    "The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government - lest it come to dominate our lives and interests." - Patrick Henry

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  10. #10
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    Re: X-Prize Daytona

    Forgive me for not being on yesterday. Had a business associate from Buffalo shoot in for some MPG work on his '05 Grand Marquis.

    Nothing special with the engine bottom end, no lightening of the vehicle. All modifications are pretty much add on types.

    The trapped oils in the catch cans also contain acids that you want to remove from the crankcase anyways. That oil is simply disposed of. If everything is working properly, just empty the can(s) when you change your oil.

    There will be several unique performance and economy devices added to the car, and many require some sort of electronic controls. Since one of the things I do for my company is develop electronic controllers, I will be using my work on the car. First there is the master board to control most of the gadgets including the Stratifyer, AAC, and other stuff I’ll show you later.


    There is a small board that controls the LEDs mounted in the control panel (see below).


    To get the most from the performance and economy modifications, there is also the Master Engine Controller. This is based on a modified version of an Alpha product my company will soon be marketing called The Ecosceptor.


    The interface is through the Control Panel. I just modified the boost gauge/door ajar panel.


    Along the left vertically are 4 LEDs that display oxygen sensor voltage at 0.25, 0.50, 0.75, and 0.95 volt increments. The top 10 LED bar gives resolution to the 0.7 to 1.0 volt O2 range. The bottom 10 LED bar displays added down-stream (post-cat) oxygen sensor voltage in 0.10 volt increments (for more insight into combustion). Bottom left 4 LEDs are tied to injectors. Every time an injector fires, the associated LED lights up. If there is an injector not firing correctly, that LED will either be dim compared to the rest, or not light at all (or actually be brighter depending on the malfunction). The next set of 4 LEDs are tied to the spark plugs and offer the same information as the injector set. The last 4 LEDs are 2 amber and 2 red. They are tied into the knock sensor circuit. A little knock, and the first LED flickers. A little more, the second joins in. If there is sufficient knock to kick on the 4th one, it stays lit for 3 seconds after the high level knock was last detected. I call this the Knock Squawk. I’ll talk about the switches later when I delve into what they control.

    Of course boost will be controlled by our Wastegatre (.com), modified to represent the WG-225 with built-in 2.5 bar MAP sensor capable of about 22 psi boost, and traction control (backs off on boost when the tires break loose).


    More later,
    Mike
    Last edited by mpgmike; 10-05-2011 at 10:19 AM. Reason: missed text

  11. #11
    Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff Vigo's Avatar
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    Re: X-Prize Daytona

    Very impressive. I'll be watching intently.

    Dont push the red button.You hear me?

  12. #12
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    Re: X-Prize Daytona

    Subscribed! This is fascinating stuff!

  13. #13
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor j4278h's Avatar
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    Re: X-Prize Daytona

    when are you making the exterior into a golf ball and putting ton of div-its in the body.

  14. #14
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    Re: X-Prize Daytona

    Where I have it parked is under a walnut tree. I will have to replace the windshield before it gets street duty. Maybe there will be a few dimples in the body 'cause of the walnuts. Hope not.

    Mike

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    Re: X-Prize Daytona

    One of the prominent devices I’m adding to the Daytona is what I call the Arctic Air Charger (AAC). Cold air intakes are quite popular, but “cold air” is defined as ambient temperature (which may be over 100 degrees!). The engine picks up 1% more power for every 7 degrees drop in intake temps. The AAC uses Peltier Chips that literally refrigerate the incoming air so that it may actually be colder than the outside air. Here are a couple pics of a work in progress.






    There is a bracket on the bottom of the housing that bolts it to the cylinder head to keep it from flopping around. There will be a reducer on the exposed side to connect to the IC hose. The body will be powder coated wrinkle finish black with gold painted screws and fins. If you remember the control panel, the first switch is labeled “AAC” and has 2 LEDs. This is an “On-Off-On” switch that allows you to set it for COLD, OFF, or HOT. Why hot? In the winter, the engine wastes lots of fuel when the “choke is on”. By heating the incoming air, you get quicker warm-up, improved power as it warms up, better fuel economy, and reduced emissions. When set for “Cold”, a blue LED lights up. “Hot” gets a red LED. If in the “Off” position, neither LED lights up.

    More later.

    Mike

  16. #16
    Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff Force Fed Mopar's Avatar
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    Re: X-Prize Daytona

    Now that is pretty interesting.
    Rob M.
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  17. #17
    boostaholic
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    Re: X-Prize Daytona

    Do you need to update the charging system to handle the extra power needed to run this stuff?

  18. #18
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor zin's Avatar
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    Re: X-Prize Daytona

    The Peltier is an interesting item, is the improvement going to be enough to outpace the conversion losses, especially when cooling? It/they must be pretty high Watt units to be capable of conditioning the volume of air going past them when under boost! It would be cool. (No pun intended) to be able to utilize the un-used side for some productive purpose...

    Neat stuff you got going on there!

    Mike
    "The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government - lest it come to dominate our lives and interests." - Patrick Henry

    Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny.
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  19. #19
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    Re: X-Prize Daytona

    Each chip draws about 5 amps. Just use it when you need it.

    Just some peripherals, I was told the car has a Walbro fuel pump. I'm gonna run with it. It will run Pulstar Iridium spark plugs (BE1i is the part number). Guys, if you haven't tried these plugs, they'll knock your socks off! You can get them at most of the major auto parts stores, though they'll probably have to order them for you.


    The ignition wires are solid core versions with a magnetic inductance ring to suppress RFI, from a company called MPG Plus. I just wish they came in colors other than green.




    The Z came with an Accel Super Coil. I'm probably going to use a factory E coil. I have never had good luck with Accel produts.


    It also came with a VDO 15 psi boost gauge. I'm going to use a 30 psi version instead.




    I also have a stock '87 stock LM as well as a MP version. Although I'm using our Ecosceptor for tuning, one LM might be easier to work with than the other. At least I have two to choose from. It came with a Luk clutch that will go back in. Engine and trans will be pumping Royal Purple lubes. Much research went into this decision. I used to be sold on Amsoil, but I don't think they changed their formula in about 25 years. Other companies have learned more and have gotten better. I like Royal Purple.


    I have been deeply involved with the onboard hydrogen generator (HHO) industry for over half a decade. I wrote technical papers (BTW, I'm recognized as a Fuel Economy Expert by the US Federal Court System), developed training programs, and created various controllers for HHO. I'm considering putting such a system on the Daytona. The hang up stems from maintenance and freezing issues. I've solved most of the freezing issues, but not all. When working properly, it's utterly awesome! It just requires periodic attention.


    More later,

    Mike
    Last edited by mpgmike; 10-17-2011 at 11:06 AM. Reason: add pic

  20. #20
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor zin's Avatar
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    Re: X-Prize Daytona

    Any thoughts on zero weight oil? Pumping losses would be less as well as windage... as long as the bottom end is tight enough.

    I'm not familiar with The HHO having freezing problems, but that is probably just showing my ignorance on the subject...

    Mike
    "The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government - lest it come to dominate our lives and interests." - Patrick Henry

    Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny.
    - Edmund Burke

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