Carburetors?

[moparman76_69]

It has the hole in the end. Sounds like I just need this bracket you speak of. What did it look like? Any pics?

Would this dodad work to get this car running? I know it says for GM models, but the squares look like our cables could fit in there?

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...ductId=1300661

Also are there specific gaskets to put under the carb that I can pick up some place? I'm assuming a vac leak of any kind would be a problem under there? That's what would happen right?

I really want to get this car up and running quickly without having to shell out $200 for a carb almost exactly like the one I've got on the car now.

That is the bracket I was talking about, except I found in at Autozone sold as a Spectre product. I think it was a few dollars more than that but probably the same after Jeg's shipping. I modified it to bolt to the intake and hold the cable, looks like your throttle arm is good to go, just need a pin to go through the arm and cable end.

[ScottD]

I don't understand why you are having so much trouble with this. For simplicity, I would take a carb'd car over EFI. The carb cars have a speed sensor, coolant sensor, and knock sensor, that's it. The computer just controls spark. Very basic stuff, less to fail. You seem to be frugal, you should like that aspect

Go look at my Turismo project log. All the pics are there for this conversion. It is really a straight forward swap going from Holley to Weber. Once I had the Weber tuned I never touched it again. On cold starts, I'd pump the gas once and it would start right up. Warm re-starts I didn't need to pump the gas.

Unlike the Holley, which I felt would run good some days and run poor others, with the Weber the car was consistent all the time.

Rock Auto has the carb to manifold gaskets. I have an extra one laying around also that you can have if you pay shipping.

[cordes]

I don't understand why you are having so much trouble with this. For simplicity, I would take a carb'd car over EFI. The carb cars have a speed sensor, coolant sensor, and knock sensor, that's it. The computer just controls spark. Very basic stuff, less to fail. You seem to be frugal, you should like that aspect

Go look at my Turismo project log. All the pics are there for this conversion. It is really a straight forward swap going from Holley to Weber. Once I had the Weber tuned I never touched it again. On cold starts, I'd pump the gas once and it would start right up. Warm re-starts I didn't need to pump the gas.

Unlike the Holley, which I felt would run good some days and run poor others, with the Weber the car was consistent all the time.

Rock Auto has the carb to manifold gaskets. I have an extra one laying around also that you can have if you pay shipping.

My carb is a different model than yours. It's almost exactly the same, but the choke is on the back side of the carb and the linkage rotates the opposite direction of the one you have. If I didn't need to make it rotate the opposite way I would have been done by now. Your directions are spot on in the Turismo project log.

I'll shoot you my address and cover the shipping for that gasket. Thanks for the offer.

---------- Post added at 09:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:38 AM ----------

That is the bracket I was talking about, except I found in at Autozone sold as a Spectre product. I think it was a few dollars more than that but probably the same after Jeg's shipping. I modified it to bolt to the intake and hold the cable, looks like your throttle arm is good to go, just need a pin to go through the arm and cable end.

Thanks for the feedback.

[ScottD]

My carb is a different model than yours. It's almost exactly the same, but the choke is on the back side of the carb and the linkage rotates the opposite direction of the one you have. If I didn't need to make it rotate the opposite way I would have been done by now. Your directions are spot on in the Turismo project log.

I'll shoot you my address and cover the shipping for that gasket. Thanks for the offer.[COLOR="Silver"]

Not trying to be overly critical here, just some food for thought. In saving $ to get the wrong carb, how much time have you spent trying to make the wrong carb work?

You may think your time is "free" but your time has value. As I've gotten older I look much more at this aspect when I approach my own vehicles.

For example, there are times when yes, I can fabricate a bracket out of aluminum bar stock and save several bucks, but there are other times where, like adjustable T3 cam sprockets, based on the time it would take me, it makes more sense just to buy the part. In this case, with Weber Carbs direct offering the 32/36 DFEV for $199 now, you just can't go wrong.

Have you rebuilt the DGEV? If not, it would really stink to go through all this linkage hassle, get it on the car, and find it needs a rebuild. It seems like you're going through a lot of unnecessary aggravation. When I bought the new Weber DFEV, I got it on there, and after dialing in the base idle, fast idle, and choke I never touched it again after putting 13k miles on the car, and presumably it is still fine because I haven't heard another word on it from the new owner either.

[cordes]

Not trying to be overly critical here, just some food for thought. In saving $ to get the wrong carb, how much time have you spent trying to make the wrong carb work?

You may think your time is "free" but your time has value. As I've gotten older I look much more at this aspect when I approach my own vehicles.

For example, there are times when yes, I can fabricate a bracket out of aluminum bar stock and save several bucks, but there are other times where, like adjustable T3 cam sprockets, based on the time it would take me, it makes more sense just to buy the part. In this case, with Weber Carbs direct offering the 32/36 DFEV for $199 now, you just can't go wrong.

Have you rebuilt the DGEV? If not, it would really stink to go through all this linkage hassle, get it on the car, and find it needs a rebuild. It seems like you're going through a lot of unnecessary aggravation. When I bought the new Weber DFEV, I got it on there, and after dialing in the base idle, fast idle, and choke I never touched it again after putting 13k miles on the car, and presumably it is still fine because I haven't heard another word on it from the new owner either.

I realized pretty quickly that the bracket wasn't going to do the job for the cable. Other than that I haven't done anything which the DFEV wouldn't have required. If I can use the bracket that George used I'll come out about $180 ahead. I'm assuming I can get this bracket on there with relative ease. I really just need to move the bracket back about 4-5".

[cordes]

OK, I received the gasket which Scott graciously donated to the cause today. I finished up installing the carb and it runs better now than it did before without any tuning at all. It should be great when I'm done with all of the adjustments.

Does anyone have a link for an air filter which will clear the Omni hood? I've decided not to retain the stock air box as the car no longer looks stock with the pump, vac lines, et al removed.

This has been a great experience and I really appreciate everyone's help and patience with my lack of knowledge. I'll try and get some pics up tomorrow. I think it looks pretty decent really.

[Vigo]

Those little rectangular filter setups they sell on weber site looked pretty good to me. Dont remember the price or know about omni clearance, though.

[ScottD]

Those little rectangular filter setups they sell on weber site looked pretty good to me. Dont remember the price or know about omni clearance, though.

I was worried about clearance on this also didnt want to get something that might not fit. I ended up just keeping stock air box on my car for this reason.

[cordes]

I was worried about clearance on this also didnt want to get something that might not fit. I ended up just keeping stock air box on my car for this reason.

I gave it a decent shot yesterday and came away thinking that you were a fabrication master. While that may be true, I found that the top of the DGEV and DFEV are different also. Mine has a more rectangular top while the DFEV which you have looks almost stock. I think a filter designed for the carb is a must.

I think I'll go with one of the jobs that Vigo mentioned. I know it'll fit and I believe that the units sit flat on the top of the carb so I think even the 3.5" tall ones should work.

[ScottD]

The other thought I had with the open element air filter was this. It looks cool, but is there a benefit from it? The stock airbox is taking cooler air from outside the engine bay. The open element filter is taking hot air from the engine bay. Also, in the colder weather, the open element is not routing hot air off the exhaust manifold like the stock air box does, and this may lead to the choke disengaging less rapidly. The longer the choke is on and the engine is idling at 2000 rpm, the worse your gas mileage will be. On my Turismo, I saw an avg 22mpg in the winter, in the same driving during warmer months I would see 25mpg, which I attributed mainly to the choke being engaged longer.

[cordes]

The other thought I had with the open element air filter was this. It looks cool, but is there a benefit from it? The stock airbox is taking cooler air from outside the engine bay. The open element filter is taking hot air from the engine bay. Also, in the colder weather, the open element is not routing hot air off the exhaust manifold like the stock air box does, and this may lead to the choke disengaging less rapidly. The longer the choke is on and the engine is idling at 2000 rpm, the worse your gas mileage will be. On my Turismo, I saw an avg 22mpg in the winter, in the same driving during warmer months I would see 25mpg, which I attributed mainly to the choke being engaged longer.

I have thought about that a lot. I'm sure you're right, but the only thing I've found to run cold air to one of these has a list price of $150. If I feel really motivated I'll modify the stock air cleaner top to work.

[ScottD]

I have thought about that a lot. I'm sure you're right, but the only thing I've found to run cold air to one of these has a list price of $150. If I feel really motivated I'll modify the stock air cleaner top to work.

The stock setup is cold air though. It comes from the outside, goes through the computer, through the ribbed tube and up through the air box. I thought about replacing that ribbed tube with a smooth one (maybe a VNT upper IC hose would work?) to help improve the flow.

Another trick you can do is use two air box to carb gaskets. This was a trick recommended in the FWD Mopar book.

[moparman76_69]

K&N makes a piece that bolts on top that lets you use any standard 5 1/4 air cleaner. Warning though, it ain't cheap.

[cordes]

The stock setup is cold air though. It comes from the outside, goes through the computer, through the ribbed tube and up through the air box. I thought about replacing that ribbed tube with a smooth one (maybe a VNT upper IC hose would work?) to help improve the flow.

Another trick you can do is use two air box to carb gaskets. This was a trick recommended in the FWD Mopar book.

I know it is. It will take a good amount of modification to get it working with my carb though. I'll have to open up the bottom to clear the square inlet area and then do a little grinding to get the top to bolt down. I'll need some different gaskets too.

K&N makes a piece that bolts on top that lets you use any standard 5 1/4 air cleaner. Warning though, it ain't cheap.

I saw that. Frankly, I'll just go with one on the top of the motor given the cost of the kit. I could make my own out of fiber glass etc. for cheaper.

[cordes]

What size jets is everyone running? I was doing some tuning today and I have the adjustment screw out 7 turns and it's still too lean. I know my dad had this on a Metro or something similar back when so I'm thinking it could be severely under jetted.

[ScottD]

I ran whatever came with the Weber 32/36 DFEV. I think the jet sizes are listed somewhere on Weber carbs direct. They were rather small, and even with a ported head, OS valves, and full 2.25 exhaust I never had a problem with mine running lean.

[cordes]

I ran whatever came with the Weber 32/36 DFEV. I think the jet sizes are listed somewhere on Weber carbs direct. They were rather small, and even with a ported head, OS valves, and full 2.25 exhaust I never had a problem with mine running lean.

Thanks. I've got to ask my father what size jets he went with. The carb may just need a rebuild too though. It sat in his shed for years before I tried to use it.